Remote Start!

I might be a little biased, but I don't know why anyone would consider the OEM remote starter over this one below.

Our product utilizes the OEM factory keyfob remote, it doesn't shut the engine off when getting in the car, and has a ton of extra features above and beyond just a remote start feature. Sure it isn't a walk in the park in terms of the install, but when installed properly, it works great.

K8SS Canbus Control Module
 
I went with the Compustar DC3. Bought it from Best Buy and had them install it( I know..i know). Retails for 299 and they offer free install so it cost me 325 OTD. Uses the OEM remote, doesn't shut the car off when opening the door and has 1500 ft range. I asked the tech if they had experience working on Stingers and he said he had done a few installs on them so I felt comfortable. Made an appointment for the next day and arrived on time for the install. Low and behold it was a different tech and he had never even seen a Stinger let alone worked on one. Getting nervous. He told me it would take 3 hrs or so so he could be careful and take his time..all good with that.
I went home to take care of a few things and started to get a lil worried after not hearing from them for 4 hrs. I went back to Best Buy, walked into the service bay where he was doing the install, and OMG!!!! It was like walking into an ER halfway through open heart surgery. The car was completely torn apart..panels off, wires hanging out everywhere and a completely overwhelmed and confused tech sitting on a computer googling how to install remote start on a Stinger!!! Full on PANIC set in!! Said he couldn't find 2 of the wires he needed, one of which was the starter wire. First thing I did was pull up this forum and requested help from all of you. Had responses in 20 minutes and the tech was able to complete the job WHEW!!! Thank you all,especially Ecko who had posted a diagram earlier with all the wiring. That made it easy.
As he was finishing, his supervisor showed up to help him. He had never worked on a Stinger either and was absolutely enamored with the car. He drives an S4 and was definitely a car guy. He asked me a thousand questions about the car and was THOROUGHLY impressed. Couldn't wrap his head around the fact that this was a KIA.
After the Stinger was put back together, the time came to test it and start it up. By this time there were 3 other Best Buy employees in the garage checking out the car and asking questions. The tech gave me my OEM remote and told me to press the lock button 3 times to start it up. ROOOOARRR...man that Borla sounds MEEEEEEAN in a closed garage lol! Everyone in the garage was smiling/giggling and saying how amazing it sounds and what a beautiful car it is. The supervisor (car guy) was absolutely floored by the sound this KIA was making. He said (with envy in his eyes) "I can't believe I'm saying this...but a KIA Stinger very well may be in my future":)
Happy to say the car is running great with zero visible damage from the install. The remote start is money verrrry well spent:). Best Buy ended up doing a great job. WHEW
 
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I went aftermarket also. Wanted to be able to turn on the defrosters and heated seats. I got the one with the app or fob start..it wasn't much more than the dealer wanted for the factory one. Doesn't shut off when you open the door and will run for 25 minutes without shutting off.
 
I went aftermarket also. Wanted to be able to turn on the defrosters and heated seats. I got the one with the app or fob start..it wasn't much more than the dealer wanted for the factory one. Doesn't shut off when you open the door and will run for 25 minutes without shutting off.
Which remote start did you buy that turns on the defroster and heated seats? Does your aftermarket have any other cool features?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Which remote start did you buy that turns on the defroster and heated seats? Does your aftermarket have any other cool features?

It's pretty sad when the after-market product can do more than the OEM, including the KIA UVO phone app for those of us with cars with telematics. It can tell me where I left/lost my car in a mall parking lot, but cannot turn on seat heaters or coolers with the remote start!?!?!?!
 
It's pretty sad when the after-market product can do more than the OEM, including the KIA UVO phone app for those of us with cars with telematics. It can tell me where I left/lost my car in a mall parking lot, but cannot turn on seat heaters or coolers with the remote start!?!?!?!
True ... but which remote start did you buy??? Shopping hard for the best options. Yours sounds nice!
 
Which remote start did you buy that turns on the defroster and heated seats? Does your aftermarket have any other cool features?
Went with the nustart with the phone connectivity option. .. the only other cool feature it has is the GPS tracking, can see where the car is at all times.
 
So is there currently any apps out there that allows you to start your stinger with your phone off factory remote starter.
 
So is there currently any apps out there that allows you to start your stinger with your phone off factory remote starter.
Nope, only Canadians can do that.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I recently had a Compustar (CM7200) T12 installed with Drone. I had Aux1 wired to my front heated seats and steering wheel, and Aux2 wired to my seat cooling. $849 + tax. So far it works well, and I love the features, but I did have a few quirks.

My installer forgot to enable option 2-04 (trigger start). This means three clicks of the OEM KIA Lock button won't start the car. I'll get it updated next time I'm in.

I noticed that on sub freezing days the remote start would take two or three tries to start. I'm pretty sure this was because I had my remote start installed on a warm day, and my tach was calibrated under those conditions. I recalibrated the tach on a cold (sub freezing) start and it seems to work perfect now ( Why does my vehicle attempt to start three times but fail? )

Lastly, the Drone system stopped working after an update and I had to power cycle the unit, but then it updated fine and seems to be working well. Time will tell how it holds up, I'm signed up for 5 years of premium service.

I was considering having my rear defrost wired in, set to automatically trigger when I remote start and the car is below freezing, but so far I haven't needed that at all.

I'm going to use my car as it is for a while, and potentially add defrost in when I get the ISG and Auto Hold memory module and Proximity lock module from Shark Racing installed.

I did notice that while the car is remote started, the automatic smart trunk opening doesn't seem to work. It beeps 3 times like it senses I am there, but will not actually open the trunk. I can still open it with the button on the hatch or my remote. I need to investigate this more, but I don't consider it a deal breaker.

When remote started, I can walk up to the car, unlock it, open the rear door, drop my backpack in, close the rear door, open my door, get in, close the door, and press the brake to takeover just fine.

The biggest issue I had was either bumping the brake while getting in, or being impatient and pressing the brake pedal before the door was fully closed. Now that I've learned the procedure, takeover works well.
 
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I recently had a Compustar (CM7200) T12 installed with Drone. I had Aux1 wired to my front heated seats and steering wheel, and Aux2 wired to my seat cooling. $849 + tax. So far it works well, and I love the features, but I did have a few quirks.

My installer forgot to enable option 2-04 (trigger start). This means three clicks of the OEM KIA Lock button won't start the car. I'll get it updated next time I'm in.

I noticed that on sub freezing days the remote start would take two or three tries to start. I'm pretty sure this was because I had my remote start installed on a warm day, and my tach was calibrated under those conditions. I recalibrated the tach on a cold (sub freezing) start and it seems to work perfect now ( Why does my vehicle attempt to start three times but fail? )

Lastly, the Drone system stopped working after an update and I had to power cycle the unit, but then it updated fine and seems to be working well. Time will tell how it holds up, I'm signed up for 5 years of premium service.

I was considering having my rear defrost wired in, set to automatically trigger when I remote start and the car is below freezing, but so far I haven't needed that at all.

I'm going to use my car as it is for a while, and potentially add defrost in when I get the ISG (Idle Stop and Go) and Auto Hold memory module and Proximity lock module from Shark Racing installed.

I did notice that while the car is remote started, the automatic smart trunk opening doesn't seem to work. It beeps 3 times like it senses I am there, but will not actually open the trunk. I can still open it with the button on the hatch or my remote. I need to investigate this more, but I don't consider it a deal breaker.

When remote started, I can walk up to the car, unlock it, open the rear door, drop my backpack in, close the rear door, open my door, get in, close the door, and press the brake to takeover just fine.

The biggest issue I had was either bumping the brake while getting in, or being impatient and pressing the brake pedal before the door was fully closed. Now that I've learned the procedure, takeover works well.
Wow, I had no idea I could recalibrate it for the cold environment, having to start it 2-3 times in the cold is certainly annoying. Will definitely try this tomorrow.

Question though, it does say this:

While keeping your foot on the brake, press the remote start button on your remote control

I don't have a separate remote start button, would you do this through the app or press the lock key 3 times? How did you do this? Also, did you wait for the tach to go down to idle speed or did you program it immediately after the car started?
 
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I calibrated my tach at high idle (1500 RPM). If you are using a Compustar brain and don't have a dedicated remote start remote, I think you could press lock 3 times to trigger the remote start signal or use drone to send the signal. Just keep holding the brake until you see your lights blink once to know the Compustar got the signal and learned the tach.

Side Note: I think drone may currently have a bug where if you place a POI alert inside of a Geofence alert you can crash your Drone device. I cleared my POIs and geofences and haven't had a problem yet (fingers crossed). The POI and Geofence features aren't super useful to me, but I had been testing them out.
 
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guys, just to confirm, with the Kia OEM remote start, if I leave the car with the HVAC off (no heat or A/C) and remote start it when it's 15F outside, the heat will or will not automatically turn on? Bonus question, does front or rear Defrost turn on? My 2008 CTS turns on heat, heated seats and rear defrost, so trying to see if this behaves similarly or not.
 
Nothing will be turned on, it behaves exactly as if you were in the car and started it manually. That means it will resume whatever heat/AC setting you had when you parked it - so if you want heat, turn it on before you shut the car down. Same with AC.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I calibrated my tach at high idle (1500 RPM). If you are using a Compustar brain and don't have a dedicated remote start remote, I think you could press lock 3 times to trigger the remote start signal or use drone to send the signal. Just keep holding the brake until you see your lights blink once to know the Compustar got the signal and learned the tach.

Side Note: I think drone may currently have a bug where if you place a POI alert inside of a Geofence alert you can crash your Drone device. I cleared my POIs and geofences and haven't had a problem yet (fingers crossed). The POI and Geofence features aren't super useful to me, but I had been testing them out.
So, an update (it's been a while!). I tried re-calibrating as you mentioned and while that worked, it didn't really improve my situations. Still was getting false starts in the cold or if it had been idle for a while (12+ hours).

I ended up taking it back to the place that installed it, and the tech who worked on it said there was actually a bulletin put out by Computsar for the Stinger that the tach sense is not reliable and to use static 5-second starts instead. He completely removed the tach sense and calibrated it for a 5-second start. 3 days, <45F weather, and about 8 starts later not a single false start.

Just some info for those who have it or are thinking about getting it installed.
 
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For whatever it’s worth, the part numbers for the OEM are J5F57-AC100 which has been superseded to
J5F57-AC101
 
...I ended up taking it back to the place that installed it...

I started getting false starts when it was just a little bit above freezing. I brought the car in, they did a firmware update to the compustar module, and now it's working reliably. Not sure what if any settings they changed.

I never felt a need for wiring in the defrost, I mostly park in ramps or garages, so it never became a concern. Having the seat and steering wheel wired into Aux 1 and 2 has been nice though. This summer I will try the cooling functions.

The smart trunk still behaves the same, if remote started the trunk won't automatically open. Still does the countdown like it senses I am there, but then doesn't pop open. Not a deal breaker, but it's fooled me a couple of times.

I should also report that the Proximity lock module shark racing sells works fine with a Compustar system, no weird interactions there. The only thing to keep in mind is that if you unlock your doors (proximity or via key), the smart trunk won't even try to open (remote started or not).
 
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I started getting false starts when it was just a little bit above freezing. I brought the car in, they did a firmware update to the compustar module, and now it's working reliably. Not sure what if any settings they changed.

I never felt a need for wiring in the defrost, I mostly park in ramps or garages, so it never became a concern. Having the seat and steering wheel wired into Aux 1 and 2 has been nice though. This summer I will try the cooling functions.

The smart trunk still behaves the same, if remote started the trunk won't automatically open. Still does the countdown like it senses I am there, but then doesn't pop open. Not a deal breaker, but it's fooled me a couple of times.

I should also report that the Proximity lock module shark racing sells works fine with a Compustar system, no weird interactions there. The only thing to keep in mind is that if you unlock your doors (proximity or via key), the smart trunk won't even try to open (remote started or not).
I'm willing to bet they did what Compustar mentioned to do and removed the tach sense and just do static starts. I haven't had a single false start since I posted that.

Also, I believe the issue with the Smart Trunk is an un-overideable area of the security system, perhaps due to encryption or the fact that the system can't read the information to support the smart trunk. Not a huge deal for me though, if I need the trunk I'll just open it manually with the button on the back. Might take a couple clicks though, so I click once and give it a couple seconds before trying again to open it.
 
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