Secret Engine Killer -LSPI- Low Speed Pre-Ignition

[Chyoon]

Add it as a test so you know if that's the cause. Also possible you got some bad gas. If you can hear the knock that is severe.

I see what you mean. But I'm using Costco has, which is considered top tier.

 

[Pnbnationsbest]

EASY WAY TO AVOID LSPI FAILURE RIGHT HERE:



DON'T BE THE JERK THAT FLOORS IT IN 8TH GEAR AT 40MPH!

 

[Chyoon]

EASY WAY TO AVOID LSPI FAILURE RIGHT HERE:



DON'T BE THE JERK THAT FLOORS IT IN 8TH GEAR AT 40MPH!

I don't floor it and the stinger is automatic. I'm guessing you're not having any of these issues.

 

[Pnbnationsbest]

I don't floor it and the stinger is automatic. I'm guessing you're not having any of these issues.

You do know that you can MANUALLY shift gears

No issues here!

If you don't run low RPM's combined with high boost demands, run premium fuel (like you're supposed to in ANY FI platform), use quality oil and maintain your vehicle like a responsible adult you will not have any issues.

 

[Chyoon]

I see. I'm good you're not having any issues.

I'm currently using 91 octane (highest octane you can get in California) and still having knocks on moderate acceleration (I'm not flooring. Maybe 40% depression). I use both fuel system and fuel injector cleaners too, get oil change timely at the dealership, and treat this car like a baby overall.

It's there anything else I should I be doing to maintain the car like a responsible adult? I'm just trying to figure out how to fix this problem in a reasonable way.

 

[Pnbnationsbest]

Stop repeating the same situations/utilizing the same factors that are producing what you are calling knock (which is more likely to be predetonation pinging btw). Your car does NOT need additives and cleaners on a weekly/monthly basis. GTDI engines are VERY sensitive to additives, fuel quality and oils.

 

[Chyoon]

Stop repeating the same situations/utilizing the same factors that are producing what you are calling knock (which is more likely to be predetonation pinging btw). Your car does NOT need additives and cleaners on a weekly/monthly basis. GTDI engines are VERY sensitive to additives, fuel quality and oils.

You're making a lot of assumptions there, just because you're not experiencing issues of your own.

I started adding octane (once a few hundred miles ago) and additives (every few thousand miles interval) to try to remedy the issue.

I'm starting to realize you're not here to offer advice, let alone consider the actual context.

 

[Pnbnationsbest]

No assumptions and my initial comments were not just directed at you, although you seem to have picked up some sand.

Don’t operate at high loads and low RPM (Instead of loading the motor at low RPM, downshift and accelerate)
Use quality premium fuel and lubricants
A good tune
Better ntercooling/WMI if available
Ensure proper operation of the PCV system
Consider a colder plug to prevent hot spots
Try to monitor oil consumption by using a thick&quality (Penz Gold/Plat) oil

 

[Chyoon]

No assumptions and my initial comments were not just directed at you, although you seem to have picked up some sand.

Don’t operate at high loads and low RPM (Instead of loading the motor at low RPM, downshift and accelerate)
Use quality premium fuel and lubricants
A good tune
Better ntercooling/WMI if available
Ensure proper operation of the PCV system
Consider a colder plug to prevent hot spots
Try to monitor oil consumption by using a thick&quality (Penz Gold/Plat) oil

I apologies I mistook your audience.

Going back to your first item of advice, wouldn't it defeat the purpose of having an automatic car, if you have to manually downshift in order to ensure the vehicle is operating in a safe manner?

 

[Pnbnationsbest]

Does having a blown motor defeat the purpose of owning a car?

Look, if you're cruising at low rpm and want to "moderately" accelerate then just kick it down a couple gears and go. The car will revert to auto when you go back to a normal rpm band.

 

[Chyoon]

Does having a blown motor defeat the purpose of owning a car?

Look, if you're cruising at low rpm and want to "moderately" accelerate then just kick it down a couple gears and go. The car will revert to auto when you go back to a normal rpm band.

I understand what you mean. All I am trying to do is discern whether this is a defect (since not everyone is experience this issue) or just the nature of the beast. I will be taking your advice and manually shift down prior to acceleration in the meantime. Thank you.

 

[Pnbnationsbest]

It isn't just you. It is a common occurrence with GTDI's. I am willing to bet you that it is a combo of your fuel and oil combo. There are additives in your fuel and too many particulates passed through by your oil.

 

[Chyoon]

It isn't just you. It is a common occurrence with GTDI's. I am willing to bet you that it is a combo of your fuel and oil combo. There are additives in your fuel and too many particulates passed through by your oil.

So Costco 91 octane is not a good way to go? Where do you even get top tier gas without additives? And I get my oil change only from the dealer just so I can keep a good record of the maintenance schedule.

Do you see anything in my routines I should fix or adjust? Thanks again.

 

[MerlintheMad]

Does having a blown motor defeat the purpose of owning a car?

Look, if you're cruising at low rpm and want to "moderately" accelerate then just kick it down a couple gears and go. The car will revert to auto when you go back to a normal rpm band.

You are asserting that the automatic trans in the Stinger somehow doesn't react fast enough to downshift perfectly when you hit the go pedal. This, imho, is mistaken. I get instant acceleration every time I push vigorously, far in excess of 40% of throttle capacity. There is no hesitation, no loss of power, as @Chyoon is describing. Something else is going on with his engine or even transmission. I'm not a gearhead so I can't say what to look into; but his symptoms are not normal operation. He hasn't said he has piggybacks or other modified add on stuff, so I am assuming that his engine is stock. If not, then removal of them is first. Finding out if he has fouled or otherwise compromised plugs is second.

 

[MerlintheMad]

So Costco 91 octane is not a good way to go? Where do you even get top tier gas without additives? And I get my oil change only from the dealer just so I can keep a good record of the maintenance schedule.

Do you see anything in my routines I should fix or adjust? Thanks again.

If you have inadvertently added something that is messing with the 2.0L it might be manifesting some of the issues forum members have described.

Fuel pump replacement common? I forgot as I posted above that your 2.0L symptoms match what is going on in this thread. Good luck!

 

[Pnbnationsbest]

You are asserting that the automatic trans in the Stinger somehow doesn't react fast enough to downshift perfectly when you hit the go pedal. This, imho, is mistaken. I get instant acceleration every time I push vigorously, far in excess of 40% of throttle capacity. There is no hesitation, no loss of power, as @Chyoon is describing. Something else is going on with his engine or even transmission. I'm not a gearhead so I can't say what to look into; but his symptoms are not normal operation. He hasn't said he has piggybacks or other modified add on stuff, so I am assuming that his engine is stock. If not, then removal of them is first. Finding out if he has fouled or otherwise compromised plugs is second.

I'm asserting that what he is describing could be alleviated by avoiding the situation causing his issues until he can change the factors involved in the equation. I used to tune FI cars for a company that does R&D for the big 3 domestic brands. My opinion is an edified one. If you think you know more about LSPI feel free to research it and see that I'm right in my recommendations.

@Chyoon I would flip to BP or Shell 91. When I lived in LB I would have issues in my Honda at other stations.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I'm asserting that what he is describing could be alleviated by avoiding the situation causing his issues until he can change the factors involved in the equation. I used to tune FI cars for a company that does R&D for the big 3 domestic brands. My opinion is an edified one. If you think you know more about LSPI feel free to research it and see that I'm right in my recommendations.

@Chyoon I would flip to BP or Shell 91. When I lived in LB I would have issues in my Honda at other stations.

I appreciate background. This is a super rare issue as evidenced on this forum. I posted a link to an earlier thread where the same symptoms plaguing the 2.0L were discussed. I think your fix won't do a thing to fix his issues. If it does, kudos to you for being so knowledgeable as to diagnose from countless miles away exactly what is going wrong. That will be an amazing skill.

 

[Chyoon]

If you have inadvertently added something that is messing with the 2.0L it might be manifesting some of the issues forum members have described.

Fuel pump replacement common? I forgot as I posted above that your 2.0L symptoms match what is going on in this thread. Good luck!

Thank you for perfectly echoing my concerns and the issues I'm having. My car is stock except for the K&N drop-in filter. I had the JB4 before (for a short amount of time - a month), but the issue was there prior to the JB4 installation.

 

[Helo58]

@Chyoon , if you still have the JB4 installed, then it will be a huge help in diagnosing what your trouble is. The JB4 has the capability of logging critical engine data. Once you have a copy of this log (capturing the behaviour), there are likely several people here that can quickly look at your log and assist in diagnosing what is going on in your car. It might pay to check out the thread @MerlintheMad posted a link to as well.

 

[Chyoon]

@Chyoon , if you still have the JB4 installed, then it will be a huge help in diagnosing what your trouble is. The JB4 has the capability of logging critical engine data. Once you have a copy of this log (capturing the behaviour), there are likely several people here that can quickly look at your log and assist in diagnosing what is going on in your car. It might pay to check out the thread @MerlintheMad posted a link to as well.

Hi there. I do not have the JB4 installed currently as I determined that it would likely not help having it installed (given that we're talking about issues with extra pressure and engine load). While I did have it though, I've had Terry from BMS read the readings a few times, but I believe all he saw were some timing advances with no major knocks. And the issue doesn't occur all the time, happening during longer drives, so it was difficult for me to capture. Still happens at least once or twice for drives longer than 20-30 min.