Secret Engine Killer -LSPI- Low Speed Pre-Ignition

I have to be honest - I haven't really tried to be careful so far.. Just have fun. 200 miles so far :-)
 
Asfar as OIL is concerned, I highly recommend that you use what the engineers that designed the engine recommend. From the KIA SERVICE MANUAL (http://www.kstinger.com/specifications-365.html)
Lubricant


Description​
Specifications​
Limit​
Engine oil​
Oil quantity​
Total​
6.3 L (1.66 U.S.gal., 6.66 U.S.qt., 5.54 lmp.qt.)​
When replacing a short engine or block assembly​
Oil pan​
5.3 L (1.40 U.S.gal., 5.60 U.S.qt., 4.66 lmp.qt.)​
 ​
Drain and refill​
5.7 L (1.50 U.S.gal., 6.02 U.S.qt., 5.01 lmp.qt.)​
Including oil filter​
Oil grade​
Recommendation​
ACEA C2 or above / 5W-30​
Allowed​
- API SL or above
- ILSAC GF-3 or above
- ACEA A3 or above

- For information on SAE viscosity grades based on ambient temperatures, refer to the “Lubrication System”."​
Usable if the recommended engine oil is not available​
Oil pressure (at 1,000rpm)​
117.68 kPa (1.2 kgf/cm², 17.07 psi) or above​
Oil temperature (oil pan) :
110 ± 2 °C (230 ± 35.6°F)​
 
______________________________
What fuel injector cleaner do you guys recommend?
Before you add any additive to your vehicle make sure it will not void your warranty, talk to your service manager is my best advice.
 
Italian tune up is the cure.
Oh yeah!! The Guinnea tune up (I can say that because I am Italian) had worked for those cars that are city drivers and when you "opened it up" and drove good distance on the highway the increased steady rpm would "blast" off the build up. But it only works with a carbureted or port-injection engine. That "trick" won't work with these Direct injection engines as there is NOTHING washing the tops of the valve!
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
The top tier gas at shell is the sane as at Costco. Take some time and follow the delivery trucks around...you'll see.

The delivery trucks have multiple compartments, allowing them to carry many types of gas on the same truck. Also, in addition to the gasoline carried, drivers can add the petroleum brand's "additive package" as he fills the station tank(s) if the additives are not added as it goes on the truck. I have read that Costco adds their additives at the station while others add it as the truck is loaded. Just because it is on the same truck, there is still no guarantee you are getting the exact same gasoline once it is pumped for these two reasons.

I know this is an older thread, but I wanted to poke in here and talk about Costco gasoline.

It's a Top Tier product--and for those of you who think that "gas is gas" and "it comes out of the same truck as what Billy Joe Bob's Gas and Bait gets," be aware that what makes Costco's Kirkland gas their own is that they take the unusual extra step of having a tank of their own custom additive mix on site at each station, and they mix it in AT THE PUMP as you pump into your car.

Not "at the station". They STORE their additive at the station, but they mix it AT THE PUMP as you're pumping it in to your tank.

It's a complete custom solution that allows them to buy whatever gas is available at spot prices, but deliver to the customer's tank a known and consistent product.

All base gasoline is the same in that it meets federal standards. What makes a retail fuel is the additive package. Shell is known to be tops in research in this area, and their fuels are top notch because of the additives they use that come out of that research. Costco knows this and creates their own similar additive package, but isn't tied to a single gasoline provider. Because they mix additives in at the pump, they can take any fuel that's on the market at spot prices, and they can offer a Shell-level quality product at prices significantly less than Shell.

For information on how Costco does it:

h**p://www.neiwpcc.org/tanks2013old/presentations/tuesday/Fuel%20Additives%20and%20DEF/Fuel%20Additives_Hurlocker_2013_Tuesday.pdf

I've heard hundreds of people say "it's all the same gas" and "they mix the additives in when they fill the truck" and "there's no way Costco gas could be any different than anyone else's". I've heard from guys who claimed to have worked in the industry for the last 30 years, and by God, "we don't do it that way, we've never seen it done that way, and therefore it is not being done and cannot be done that way". Well, Costco found a way--and executed on it. And they're unique in the industry in this as far as I know.
 
I know this is an older thread, but I wanted to poke in here and talk about Costco gasoline.

It's a Top Tier product--and for those of you who think that "gas is gas" and "it comes out of the same truck as what Billy Joe Bob's Gas and Bait gets," be aware that what makes Costco's Kirkland gas their own is that they take the unusual extra step of having a tank of their own custom additive mix on site at each station, and they mix it in AT THE PUMP as you pump into your car.

Not "at the station". They STORE their additive at the station, but they mix it AT THE PUMP as you're pumping it in to your tank.

It's a complete custom solution that allows them to buy whatever gas is available at spot prices, but deliver to the customer's tank a known and consistent product.

All base gasoline is the same in that it meets federal standards. What makes a retail fuel is the additive package. Shell is known to be tops in research in this area, and their fuels are top notch because of the additives they use that come out of that research. Costco knows this and creates their own similar additive package, but isn't tied to a single gasoline provider. Because they mix additives in at the pump, they can take any fuel that's on the market at spot prices, and they can offer a Shell-level quality product at prices significantly less than Shell.

For information on how Costco does it:

h**p://www.neiwpcc.org/tanks2013old/presentations/tuesday/Fuel%20Additives%20and%20DEF/Fuel%20Additives_Hurlocker_2013_Tuesday.pdf

I've heard hundreds of people say "it's all the same gas" and "they mix the additives in when they fill the truck" and "there's no way Costco gas could be any different than anyone else's". I've heard from guys who claimed to have worked in the industry for the last 30 years, and by God, "we don't do it that way, we've never seen it done that way, and therefore it is not being done and cannot be done that way". Well, Costco found a way--and executed on it. And they're unique in the industry in this as far as I know.
Welcome. That was a first rate post. Now, introduce yourself, and your Stinger, if you've got one. :D (I buy Costco gas all the time at home, and use Shell on road trips as much as possible otherwise. :thumbup: )
 
You do know that you can MANUALLY shift gears:cautious:

No issues here! :whistle:

If you don't run low RPM's combined with high boost demands, run premium fuel (like you're supposed to in ANY FI platform), use quality oil and maintain your vehicle like a responsible adult you will not have any issues.
while I do run premium fuel if your not running any type of upgraded or piggyback ECU the factory manual does say you can use regular fuel in the 3.3L Turbo motor so its not a "supposed to" type answer.
 
3.3TT here. The manual says to add additive if using below 93 octane. Also, I've got a catch can. Is it truly beneficial to add fuel cleaner and use seafoam at regular intervals? Like should I start doing this?

Edit: just got my jb4 yesterday and will get the lozic TCU soon. Idk if that changes the answer.
 
Last edited:
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
If you maintain your catch can you should have very little need for any fuel cleaners.
 
3.3TT here. The manual says to add additive if using below 93 octane. Also, I've got a catch can. Is it truly beneficial to add fuel cleaner and use seafoam at regular intervals? Like should I start doing this?

Edit: just got my jb4 yesterday and will get the lozic TCU soon. Idk if that changes the answer.
Yes, it's beneficial especially if not using "top-tier fuel". This does not mean Premium (91 octane, 93 octane, etc.) The cleaner is supposed to reduce carbon buildup on fuel injectors. Buildup is a common problem for GDI engines.

I look at it as cheap insurance and do it when I change my oil.
 
My manual for my 3.3 says if using Top Tier then no need for fuel injector cleaners which makes sense since this is a direct injection instead of port injection.
 
The immediate thing that jumped out at me is that the spokesperson has a background in motorsports (NASCAR specifically). The reason that this is important is that most of his views related to engine oil center around either his experience with NASCAR engine building and analysis and his desire to sell his product. What may be a problem in a NASCAR engine running 8500rpm for 4-5 hours straight, may not be a problem for a consumer engine.

I think that he exaggerates the oil's ability to influence engine knock. I think he exaggerates how much difference there is between port injected engines and DI engines with respect to oil. I think that he exaggerates the extent to which oil and gas mix during the combustion process in a normal and well functioning engine. I think he exaggerates the "soot" point in comparing DI to PI engines. Lastly, I think he exaggerates all of these points to make them seem like problems. Not surprisingly, his product is the solution to these problems.

Most of the "soot" you see in a gasoline car simply comes from a rich running engine. The manufacture's choose to run rich because it runs cooler (less knock) and it is safer than running lean or hot. It has little to do with the fuel injection method.

Fuel dilution (of engine oil) happens in EVERY engine, not just DI engines. It is hardly a new problem and most modern motor oils (Castrol, Pennzoil, Mobil, Valvolene, etc.) have additives to combat fuel dilution. The most common cause is "blow-by" due to improperly seated or worn piston rings. There are other causes but that is the main one. Some oils do a better job of tolerating fuel dilution and some engines don't dilute as much by design. DI engines are less prone to fuel dilution because of how and when the fuel is injected into the cylinder. The salesperson, I mean spokesperson, failed to mention this. If you are running E85, a shorter change interval makes more sense than changing the viscosity when considering normal levels of fuel dilution.

The spokesperson also made no mention of the differences between DI and FI when speaking of fuel atomizing. The reason DI engines have a shorter fuel atomizing time is because most DI fuel systems operate at MUCH higher pressures (>2000psi) with finer nozzles to atomize the fuel. It simply requires less time to atomize fuel in a DI engine.

I have no idea why the spokesperson mentions the octane of engine oil. If you are burning enough oil during the combustion process that it affects your octane level significantly, then you have a bigger engine problem. The levels of fuel dilution and engine oil in the combustion process he talks about would be indicative of a highly worn engine, not one that passes a leak-down test.

Lastly, strongly consider the source when someone tells you that you have a problem. If it is the person selling the solution, be weary and look a little deeper into their claims.
If most of his background is in NASCAR then a lot of his subject matter is revolving around engines that typically run looser rig gaps which can increase the influence of blowby and oil contamination..most high rpm race engines I've seen will run looser tolerances to give a thicker oil cushion and less frictional heat.

BUT I'm 40 and probably thinking of older tech and building practices so I'm honestly not sure how they set up newer Nascar spec engines tolerance wise.
 
Back
Top