3.3TT How are Stinger owners cleaning their valves on their GDI engines?

[General_Vodka]

Get a catch can and put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank every now and again and run a can of seafoam valve cleaner every 20k miles and you'll be fine.

Fuel doesn't touch the valves. Direct injection

 

[EClapp3]

Fuel doesn't touch the valves. Direct injection

Correct, that's why you do both. The seafoam valve cleaner gets sprayed in just before the throttle body, its not a fuel additive. Cleans the intake and valves. and the injector cleaner cleans the injectors since they are DI

 

[colnago1331]

Correct, that's why you do both. The seafoam valve cleaner gets sprayed in just before the throttle body, its not a fuel additive. Cleans the intake and valves. and the injector cleaner cleans the injectors since they are DI

I think the issue that @General_Vodka is raising is that since fuel never comes into contact with the valves, what good does adding a fuel injector cleaner do? The catch can makes sense, as does a valve cleaner. But as far as taking care of (preventing) carbon buildup on the valves themselves, what good does it do to add fuel injector cleaner to the gas?

 

[EClapp3]

I think the issue that @General_Vodka is raising is that since fuel never comes into contact with the valves, what good does adding a fuel injector cleaner do? The catch can makes sense, as does a valve cleaner. But as far as taking care of (preventing) carbon buildup on the valves themselves, what good does it do to add fuel injector cleaner to the gas?

Sea Foam Spray | Intake Valve and Top Engine Cleaner and Lubricant

This stuff. You manually spray it into the intake tube after the turbo before the throttle body, it gets sucked in with the intake air and cleans the valves. Its not a fuel additive. Thats why i specified a fuel additive for the injectors AND the valve cleaner for the valves. Two completely sperate things.

 

[Ohiocruiser]

Sea Foam Spray | Intake Valve and Top Engine Cleaner and Lubricant

This stuff. You manually spray it into the intake tube after the turbo before the throttle body, it gets sucked in with the intake air and cleans the valves. Its not a fuel additive. Thats why i specified a fuel additive for the injectors AND the valve cleaner for the valves. Two completely sperate things.

I used that stuff on my previous di car, with little to no effect. Carbon buildup on the valves is rock solid. So unless you are doing it on the weekly bases i dont see how it would help. And even after soaking it for about an hour with valves closed i still had to spend a lot of time scrubbing and picking it out. With the stinger looks like will be the same.

 

[stoopid]

I used that stuff on my previous di car, with little to no effect. Carbon buildup on the valves is rock solid. So unless you are doing it on the weekly bases i dont see how it would help. And even after soaking it for about an hour with valves closed i still had to spend a lot of time scrubbing and picking it out. With the stinger looks like will be the same.

That's why you just pony up the $$$ to walnut blast periodically. From all I've read there isn't a reliable, purely chemical way to remove the deposits. Since it takes a while for the buildup to be an actual hindrance to performance, walnut blasting isn't actually that expensive to do every say 50,000 miles.

 

[Ohiocruiser]

That's why you just pony up the $$$ to walnut blast periodically. From all I've read there isn't a reliable, purely chemical way to remove the deposits. Since it takes a while for the buildup to be an actual hindrance to performance, walnut blasting isn't actually that expensive to do every say 50,000 miles.

The only reason i did it with chemicals was bacause i have no power at my condo garage. It does take longer than walnut blasting. As far as effectiveness i would not say blasting is a lot more effective, maybe 100% carbon removal vs 98% from chemicals. Will just have to learn how to remove intake manifold quickly, spend a 5-6 hours, and save 500-600$.

 

[stoopid]

The only reason i did it with chemicals was bacause i have no power at my condo garage. It does take longer than walnut blasting. As far as effectiveness i would not say blasting is a lot more effective, maybe 100% carbon removal vs 98% from chemicals. Will just have to learn how to remove intake manifold quickly, spend a 5-6 hours, and save 500-600$.

I was suggesting people just pay to have someone do the walnut blasting, not everyone 1) wants to do everything with their cars themselves, and 2) DIY isn't always more affordable than paying someone who already has the equipment and know-how, especially if you value your time.

 

[Ohiocruiser]

I was suggesting people just pay to have someone do the walnut blasting, not everyone 1) wants to do everything with their cars themselves, and 2) DIY isn't always more affordable than paying someone who already has the equipment and know-how, especially if you value your time.

Hey. It is enthusiast forum. Of course
Everyone wants to do it themselves, even if it is not practical

 

[EClapp3]

I used that stuff on my previous di car, with little to no effect. Carbon buildup on the valves is rock solid. So unless you are doing it on the weekly bases i dont see how it would help. And even after soaking it for about an hour with valves closed i still had to spend a lot of time scrubbing and picking it out. With the stinger looks like will be the same.

Yes this does need done early and often but not that often. It won't remove caked on carbon but it does slow the buildup a ton.

 

[stoopid]

Hey. It is enthusiast forum. Of course
Everyone wants to do it themselves, even if it is not practical

It's technically an owners forum, you might be surprised how many members don't spend much time under the hood of their 3 year (or less) old car.

[points at self]

No one's saying don't do it, especially if you enjoy it.

 

[Dia1Up]

I can't speak much other than my internet research.

First things first, our new Sorento has dual injection, GDI and Port, I'd imagine for cleaning reasons

and Second, mostly forum rumors, SeaFoam is something you have to do regularly to turbo engines. If you let the carbon build, and SeaFoam, a big chunk could come off right into the Turbo Exhaust side, potentially doing damage. SeaFoam has answered questions about this and say it's fine. So I'm not really sure what to make of that

I SeaFoam my Fit fairly regularly, but that's just a little bullet proof, port injected, single overhead cam, naturally aspirated, 117 HP V-Tech heh.

 

[sstinger]

I use CRC intake valve and turbo cleaner right before every oil change. It’s easy to use. Follow the directions on the can. You really feel the difference after the treatment. It is crucial that you clean the valves and turbos BEFORE you change the oil, that way you you can slough off all the dirt when draining the oil.

Hey Rafael,

Where do you spray the product. Are you able to show me? I'm sorry for the dumb simple questions I'm very new to this.

 

[fc528e]

Only have 8k miles, but between Gumout and a good oil catch can, I think that's a good balance that's reasonably priced/cheap for the benefits provided.

NOTE: No matter what oil catch can you get (if you do), do a very thorough wash/scrub to get any loose metal burrs and other debri out before installation.

Gumout: https://www.amazon.com/Gumout-510016W-6PK-System-Cleaner-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B07R7DSBPL

Oil catch can I used: https://www.amazon.com/Ruien-0046-Universal-Aluminum-Reservoir/dp/B06XK9PTP7

 

[St1nger Guy]

If you really want to clean them out yourself, do yourself a favor and change the spark plugs at the same time. Forget the walnut blasting and seafoam techniques. Walnut blasting is great if you have a blaster or know somebody who does but it's really not tough to dump some lacquer thinner into a port and use a toothbrush to swish it all around, then absorb it with a shop towel, repeat. Seafoam will not touch thick carbon buildup but lacquer thinner will clean your ports right down to bare metal with ease. Just make sure the valves are closed on the ports your working on. A flashlight in the spark plug hole can assist you with this. If you get it into the cylinders it will evaporate and it's also flammable so worse case the first spark ignites it and clears it out. Last thing, replace the O-rings around each port before you put it back together, they aren't supposed to be reused.

 

[Eastcoaststinger]

Sea Foam Spray | Intake Valve and Top Engine Cleaner and Lubricant

This stuff. You manually spray it into the intake tube after the turbo before the throttle body, it gets sucked in with the intake air and cleans the valves. Its not a fuel additive. Thats why i specified a fuel additive for the injectors AND the valve cleaner for the valves. Two completely sperate things.

 

[Eastcoaststinger]

The dealer recommends to take your Stinger every 7,500 miles in for a fuel system additive to clean your fuel system. After some research I found out they just Techron complete fuel system. Now you can buy this at any part store or Walmart for like 6 bucks. I believe the dealer charges like 60 bucks for the service. So why not just buy the bottle and pour it yourself? I found out that thy also put some valve cleaner up the air vacuum to clean the air valves since its GDI.

What are you using to clean your valves? What procedure are you doing?

Please share your experiences. Trying to save some money but I am also trying to prolong the life of my engine.

 

[vipeboy2000]

I see that this was the first crc treatment you did, how often did you do the seafoam before? About to do the crc soon myself at 11k mile, from what i've seen the chemical treatment is most effective if done earlier and more frequently as waiting until it's noticeable means there is so much build up you pretty much have to walnut blast.

 

[St1nger Guy]

I'd be interested if that stuff works because it would be much easier than taking the intake off. I think I tried something like this before I ended up cleaning my valves myself on my Optima. I used a bore scope to check the valves after each treatment and unfortunately nothing really touched the carbon buildup. I even made sure to get the engine good and hot first before treatment as that can make the carbon softer so that it can absorb more of the chemical remover.

 

[vipeboy2000]

I'd be interested if that stuff works because it would be much easier than taking the intake off. I think I tried something like this before I ended up cleaning my valves myself on my Optima. I used a bore scope to check the valves after each treatment and unfortunately nothing really touched the carbon buildup. I even made sure to get the engine good and hot first before treatment as that can make the carbon softer so that it can absorb more of the chemical remover.

From what I've seen , it does work to some extent but not for higher miles .. it needs to be done before large deposits form and done as a maintenance item every 10k miles or so