Door Frame Ticking / Squeaking Elimination

[corradoMR2]

WD40 won't last. The main fix is the door latch so door is tighter but the insulating of the plastic trim and silicone on the rubber will complete the job.

@StingerNYC good idea on the dimes! Everyone has those.

 

[westcoastGT]

WD40 won't last. The main fix is the door latch so door is tighter but the insulating of the plastic trim and silicone on the rubber will complete the job.

@StingerNYC good idea on the dimes! Everyone has those.

going to try that this week !!

 

[westcoastGT]

.........................argggggg , tried 1 dime on each door exactly as directed between the plastic gasket and metal ..............problem was slightly worse , removed them and it was slightly better BUT still there , tape is the next step ..........so frustrating !!

 

[Johnnyfive]

I've read that silicone on the rubber door seals can actually lead to damage over time. Is that not the case?

 

[NYdito]

Started with the back first today.

 

[StingerNYC]

Started with the back first today.

Nice. What did you use? I want to use some sound deadening back there.

 

[NYdito]

Nice. What did you use? I want to use some sound deadening back there.

Siless sound deadening mat and siless deadening foam over it. Not sure how is sound until tomorrow.

 

[Jaymorz]

UPDATE:
I've added 0.093" thick adhesive backed dense foam behind each of the door strikers. This COMPLETELY eliminated the ticking noise.
I've also installed the AEM door striker overlay plates as well.

I did not touch any of the gaskets on any of the doors.

 

[Mr Skillet]

UPDATE:
I've added 0.093" thick adhesive backed dense foam behind each of the door strikers. This COMPLETELY eliminated the ticking noise.
I've also installed the AEM door striker overlay plates as well.

I did not touch any of the gaskets on any of the doors.

pictures of the install, when you say "behind" do you mean between the striker and door frame, then bolted the striker back down?

 

[Johnnyfive]

UPDATE:
I've added 0.093" thick adhesive backed dense foam behind each of the door strikers. This COMPLETELY eliminated the ticking noise.
I've also installed the AEM door striker overlay plates as well.

I did not touch any of the gaskets on any of the doors.

Link to product?

 

[westcoastGT]

UPDATE:
I've added 0.093" thick adhesive backed dense foam behind each of the door strikers. This COMPLETELY eliminated the ticking noise.
I've also installed the AEM door striker overlay plates as well.

I did not touch any of the gaskets on any of the doors.

Great idea , can you please post some pics

 

[Jaymorz]

Apologize for the delay in getting back to you guys. Life is pretty hectic on my end.

I've already placed the kia "E" decorative plate over the metal bracket with 3M tape, so I would have to remove it completely to show you what I did exactly. Hopefully my explanation below will suffice:

Item #0: T40, Torx Screwdriver Bit. It can be adaptable to any drive/extension as long as it's a T40.
1/4" Drive T40 Torx Screwdriver Bit 06685127 - MSC

Item #1: Adhesive-Backed dense foam/rubber, 0.093" THK
3/32 Inch Thick x 2 Inch Wide x 60 Inch 64211451 - MSC

Item #2: Kia Stinger Decorative Door Striker:
New Stainless Steel Stinger Door Striker Cover 4pcs for Kia Stinger 17-18 BLACK | eBay

-----------------
Use item #0 to unfasten the metal bracket/door catch.

Clean the mounting surface from any lubricant that came from the factory (mine had at the passenger and rear driver side doors)

Cut item #1 to the appropriate size. I use 3 segments per door. 1 segment above the screw hole, 1 segment between and 1 segment beneath the other screw hole.

Reassemble the metal bracket/door catch. Tighten as much as you can without over-tightening. Hope that makes sense lol. There should be resistance because of the durameter of the adhesive and the build up of it.

Install item #2 using the pre-cut 3M double sided tape strips provided onto each door catch.

------------------
Results:

The catch is further in-bore of the locking mechanism, reducing any movement thereof

The decorative door striker acts as an insulator in minimizing noise from vibrations in that area

Hope this fix works for you as it did for me!

 

[westcoastGT]

Thanks Jay !! I'll give it a try , appreciate the info !!

 

[Waynerm002]

Some good info here! I was wondering if anyone installed any extra rubber seals around the doors to cut down on some of the exterior noise. I was looking at a couple of videos of S-Class, A8 and 7 Series and noticed they have extra rubber seals on the doors and between the front and rear doors. That seems to aid in cutting down on the noise on the interior. Of course this car could also use thicker or better sound absorbing glass. I've been thinking about doing that to my car but I need some guidance on this. Anyone have any knowledge on what product to use?

 

[westcoastGT]

member Moinmoin in Toronto did a new door gasket write up , I think it worked well for noise reduction

 

[Nishizawa]

Hey guys. Above is a recording I did on the sound that I am hearing from the driver side. It has gotten worse since yesterday and my passenger claims the sound is getting worse on the passenger side as well.

You can hear in the video (ignore the static) a sound that mimics an object dropping in a hollow area or a rattlig/tapping noise. It occurs when I go over multiple subtle bumps.

Anyone have this issue as well?

 

[moinmoin]

anyone installed any extra rubber seals

Just came across the most recent messages and @westcoastGT called my name....

anyway, for all who are complaining about wind noise and dirt in the door frames, I can only recommend the rubber moldings you find on my goto website: Aliexpress.

I added rubber seals around the doors, between the doors, between the front fender and front doors, and under the doors. I did not bother taking anything apart, just added where it was logical.
Afterward, I ran water from the top or watched where water was running after a car wash and added or adjusted the molding(s) to suit.

The Z-Type molding looks in profile like a step that's been stretched, rather flat, the "D-Type" profile is like a "U" closed at the top, the flat part is the sticky side, and the "P-Profile" looks similar to a "P",
whereby the stem of the P does the wiping across the door opening on the bottom. I added cut-outs and flow-through to the P-Profile where the door drains are located. That way I could use a single piece to stick under the door.
A small bladed utility knife (1/2"?) with a fresh point did the trick. Be patient and take your time.

I did all the work during spring & summer, before any wax or oil spray hit the car, to ensure good adhesion. Use ADHESION PROMOTER!!! if you are tackling this. Auto body supply shops sell it by the box. It's quite expensive but well worth it.

Order a bit more (like a couple of doors worth - just in case something come loose) of the moldings than you measured for or what you think you need, which will allow for screw-ups, wrong measurements and glue failure.

When it's all done, the doors close like a vault. My wife mentioned "vacuum", and it is almost like it. So far, I have not bothered with the hood or the hatch. Did not see the necessity. The car is very quiet, or a lot quieter that it was originally.

For the interested minds, a diagram and a couple of sources below, look around and you'll find a lot more. There are also rubber corner pieces available if you want to look for them...

4Meter Small P type car rubber car sound insulation seal sealing rubber strip Noise Weather Rubber 3m Sticky Tape-in Fillers, Adhesives & Sealants from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group


4 Meter D Z P B Type 3M Adhesive Car Rubber Seal Sound Insulation Weatherstrip Edge Trim Noise Insulation Car Door DB 001-in Fillers, Adhesives & Sealants from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

 

[AV8R]

Hey guys. Above is a recording I did on the sound that I am hearing from the driver side. It has gotten worse since yesterday and my passenger claims the sound is getting worse on the passenger side as well.

You can hear in the video (ignore the static) a sound that mimics an object dropping in a hollow area or a rattlig/tapping noise. It occurs when I go over multiple subtle bumps.

Anyone have this issue as well?

Can’t hear it sorry sounds ok

 

[Johnnyfive]

Just came across the most recent messages and @westcoastGT called my name....

anyway, for all who are complaining about wind noise and dirt in the door frames, I can only recommend the rubber moldings you find on my goto website: Aliexpress.

I added rubber seals around the doors, between the doors, between the front fender and front doors, and under the doors. I did not bother taking anything apart, just added where it was logical.
Afterward, I ran water from the top or watched where water was running after a car wash and added or adjusted the molding(s) to suit.

The Z-Type molding looks in profile like a step that's been stretched, rather flat, the "D-Type" profile is like a "U" closed at the top, the flat part is the sticky side, and the "P-Profile" looks similar to a "P",
whereby the stem of the P does the wiping across the door opening on the bottom. I added cut-outs and flow-through to the P-Profile where the door drains are located. That way I could use a single piece to stick under the door.
A small bladed utility knife (1/2"?) with a fresh point did the trick. Be patient and take your time.

I did all the work during spring & summer, before any wax or oil spray hit the car, to ensure good adhesion. Use ADHESION PROMOTER!!! if you are tackling this. Auto body supply shops sell it by the box. It's quite expensive but well worth it.

Order a bit more (like a couple of doors worth - just in case something come loose) of the moldings than you measured for or what you think you need, which will allow for screw-ups, wrong measurements and glue failure.

When it's all done, the doors close like a vault. My wife mentioned "vacuum", and it is almost like it. So far, I have not bothered with the hood or the hatch. Did not see the necessity. The car is very quiet, or a lot quieter that it was originally.

For the interested minds, a diagram and a couple of sources below, look around and you'll find a lot more. There are also rubber corner pieces available if you want to look for them...

4Meter Small P type car rubber car sound insulation seal sealing rubber strip Noise Weather Rubber 3m Sticky Tape-in Fillers, Adhesives & Sealants from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group


4 Meter D Z P B Type 3M Adhesive Car Rubber Seal Sound Insulation Weatherstrip Edge Trim Noise Insulation Car Door DB 001-in Fillers, Adhesives & Sealants from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

View attachment 14433

I don’t suppose you could snap a few photos?

 

[Nishizawa]

Can’t hear it sorry sounds ok

On the 0:09 mark you’ll hear something “drop” or knock! And then youcan hear if multiple times at a faster rate.