Door Frame Ticking / Squeaking Elimination

[robz32]

Just came across the most recent messages and @westcoastGT called my name....

anyway, for all who are complaining about wind noise and dirt in the door frames, I can only recommend the rubber moldings you find on my goto website: Aliexpress.

I added rubber seals around the doors, between the doors, between the front fender and front doors, and under the doors. I did not bother taking anything apart, just added where it was logical.
Afterward, I ran water from the top or watched where water was running after a car wash and added or adjusted the molding(s) to suit.

The Z-Type molding looks in profile like a step that's been stretched, rather flat, the "D-Type" profile is like a "U" closed at the top, the flat part is the sticky side, and the "P-Profile" looks similar to a "P",
whereby the stem of the P does the wiping across the door opening on the bottom. I added cut-outs and flow-through to the P-Profile where the door drains are located. That way I could use a single piece to stick under the door.
A small bladed utility knife (1/2"?) with a fresh point did the trick. Be patient and take your time.

I did all the work during spring & summer, before any wax or oil spray hit the car, to ensure good adhesion. Use ADHESION PROMOTER!!! if you are tackling this. Auto body supply shops sell it by the box. It's quite expensive but well worth it.

Order a bit more (like a couple of doors worth - just in case something come loose) of the moldings than you measured for or what you think you need, which will allow for screw-ups, wrong measurements and glue failure.

When it's all done, the doors close like a vault. My wife mentioned "vacuum", and it is almost like it. So far, I have not bothered with the hood or the hatch. Did not see the necessity. The car is very quiet, or a lot quieter that it was originally.

For the interested minds, a diagram and a couple of sources below, look around and you'll find a lot more. There are also rubber corner pieces available if you want to look for them...

4Meter Small P type car rubber car sound insulation seal sealing rubber strip Noise Weather Rubber 3m Sticky Tape-in Fillers, Adhesives & Sealants from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group


4 Meter D Z P B Type 3M Adhesive Car Rubber Seal Sound Insulation Weatherstrip Edge Trim Noise Insulation Car Door DB 001-in Fillers, Adhesives & Sealants from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

View attachment 14433

Any photos of the installation on your car?

 

[westcoastGT]

On the 0:09 mark you’ll hear something “drop” or knock! And then youcan hear if multiple times at a faster rate.

dont worry , AV8R is deaf from the whine of the propeller in his open cockpit plane ..............................

 

[Revvdmedia]

Just came across the most recent messages and @westcoastGT called my name....

anyway, for all who are complaining about wind noise and dirt in the door frames, I can only recommend the rubber moldings you find on my goto website: Aliexpress.

I added rubber seals around the doors, between the doors, between the front fender and front doors, and under the doors. I did not bother taking anything apart, just added where it was logical.
Afterward, I ran water from the top or watched where water was running after a car wash and added or adjusted the molding(s) to suit.

Any photos of the installation on your car?

I will offer a word of warning on this from my personal experience. My old Cobalt SS had rubber seals the fitted against the lowest inner edge of the door. Due to dirt accumulation on the seal, it would eventually rub the paint off the door until bare metal is exposed. I see a lot of Cobalts in my area with completely rotted lower doors and I suspect this is likely the cause.

If you put your moldings on the doors, it might not be a big issue if it butts against plastic, but be forewarned dirt that accumulates on this seal will eventually rub the paint off the mating surface.

I also had this same issue with the trunk on my Mustang GT, the seal closest to the bottom of the rear window that met the underside of the front edge of the trunk, rubbed down to bare metal. Luckily the trunk on that car was made of aluminum. I touched it up with paint and sprayed clear plastidip on all the points that were seeing wear.

 

[Revvdmedia]

On another note (irrelevant to the post above), I did 3 of 4 of the door frames for tick mitigation (removed the plastic and used felt tape on the inside of it). I'm not sure how much it helped, even in combination with the spacer behind the striker and the rubber lubricant. It's not really bad and I'm hoping to just ignore it for now until my first service, if it's still there.

One question I ask is did you guys remove the rear door trim to do this as well? I did the driver side door and broke a section of the plastic trim trying to remove the section that runs vertically between the main rear door window and the small 1/4 window. I've since replaced it (PN 83910-J5000) and it wasn't cheap. Just wondering if any of you did these rear ones and had success. Maybe I was just too ham-fisted. It's hard to get a removal tool in that part. I did not do the rear passenger door because I don't want to replace that too, but I don't hear any ticking from it anyway.

 

[StingerNYC]

I removed the trim you mentioned and it felt like it was going to crack but it held together.

I had to give a second dose of silicone spray a few weeks ago when the noises came back. Now the car is very quiet again.

 

[corradoMR2]

Hey guys. Above is a recording I did on the sound that I am hearing from the driver side. It has gotten worse since yesterday and my passenger claims the sound is getting worse on the passenger side as well.

You can hear in the video (ignore the static) a sound that mimics an object dropping in a hollow area or a rattlig/tapping noise. It occurs when I go over multiple subtle bumps.

Anyone have this issue as well?

Sounds like a door panel clip may have come loose but the odds of that being the case on the passenger door is slim.

Check the perimeter of the door panel for any looseness or gap. There are about 10 clips around the perimeter.

 

[Nishizawa]

Sounds like a door panel clip may have come loose but the odds of that being the case on the passenger door is slim.

Check the perimeter of the door panel for any looseness or gap. There are about 10 clips around the perimeter.

Will definitely do a walk around. Will update on the outcome. Thank you!

 

[corradoMR2]

Will definitely do a walk around. Will update on the outcome. Thank you!

Sure. Here's a pic of the driver's door panel I took out when troubleshooting a creaking sound which I fixed (will post a separate diy) You can see the green and white clips I'm referring to so you get an idea of their location.

 

[MikeysGT]

So glad I found this thread.. My doors drive me effin' NUTZ. Tried to lube the seals and that did nothing. It seems the next easiest option is to put a spacer behind the door striker(s). Anyone have this done by their dealer yet, or is everyone doing a DIY?

 

[westcoastGT]

So glad I found this thread.. My doors drive me effin' NUTZ. Tried to lube the seals and that did nothing. It seems the next easiest option is to put a spacer behind the door striker(s). Anyone have this done by their dealer yet, or is everyone doing a DIY?

I did all 4 doors and it got worse ...............Who friffig knows !

 

[AV8R]

I did all 4 doors and it got worse ...............Who friffig knows !

Thats nice...

 

[CDv6]

Here's a pic of the driver's door panel I took out when troubleshooting a creaking sound

This really makes me want to remove the panel and drive around without it, just to see if that's where the ticking is coming from.

 

[corradoMR2]

This really makes me want to remove the panel and drive around without it, just to see if that's where the ticking is coming from.

Might be a good idea to troubleshoot. NOTE, I had two sources of noises.

1. Ticking around the door frame (i.e. per this thread/DIY)
2. Door panel creaking/squeaking (both front doors) - reproducible when there is some car flex like turning up or down a driveway. Also reproducible by just pressing hard against certain sections of the door panel. I'll create another DIY hopefully by this weekend.

 

[westcoastGT]

Try openning the roof enough for the wind reflector to erect itself is see if the ticking is still there . I'm convinced the roof is a big part of the problem ........

 

[corradoMR2]

Might be a good idea to troubleshoot. NOTE, I had two sources of noises.

1. Ticking around the door frame (i.e. per this thread/DIY)
2. Door panel creaking/squeaking (both front doors) - reproducible when there is some car flex like turning up or down a driveway. Also reproducible by just pressing hard against certain sections of the door panel. I'll create another DIY hopefully by this weekend.

Here's the DIY for the door panel creaking: Door Panel Creaking / Squeaking Elimination

 

[Young J]

I don't know if this is relevant but something called "glass run" noise coming from door panel and window can be fixed easily.
Apply Dupont Teflon Silicone Lubricant on the rubber part of the door will eliminate the noise.
I have applied the silicone lubricant and the glass run sound disappeared. If still there, apply once again.

 

[StingerNYC]

I switched to shinetsu silicone grease. I think it will last longer than the spray and I was able to use qtips and get the rubber all around the sunroof.

Honda Genuine Shin-Etsu Grease https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Z9TZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Oum7BbDFHMAPR

 

[Revvdmedia]

I've done the 3-step method on all doors (except not fully on the rear passenger door) - rubber lubricant, door striker spacer and pulled the trim off to put felt tape behind (this I didn't do on the rear passenger door). I did this pre-emptively but I seem to have a rattle from the driver rear door that won't go away even with these fixes applied. I haven't applied more lubricant to that door seal, so that might help. It's hard to fully explain, but it almost sounds like a slightly metallic rattle, like a zipper rattling. I don't see anything loose, I tried knocking on panels and whatnot and cannot produce it that way. I tried buckling in the seatbelt thinking that was rattling and pressing the zippers on my jacket, but it still happens. It's not a noise you notice with music on and the stereo on my normal volume of "8 to 10." I may just live with that happening til my first service and then have the dealer look at it. I bought this car so I could quit trying to hunt rattles my self (that's all I did daily with my Mustang), 5 years warranty and especially the 1 year "adjustment period" means I should just have the dealer address it. Like I said, I don't hear it with the radio on, which always is, but now that it has been heard, it must be fixed.

 

[nhcowboy28]

I've done the 3-step method on all doors (except not fully on the rear passenger door) - rubber lubricant, door striker spacer and pulled the trim off to put felt tape behind (this I didn't do on the rear passenger door). I did this pre-emptively but I seem to have a rattle from the driver rear door that won't go away even with these fixes applied. I haven't applied more lubricant to that door seal, so that might help. It's hard to fully explain, but it almost sounds like a slightly metallic rattle, like a zipper rattling. I don't see anything loose, I tried knocking on panels and whatnot and cannot produce it that way. I tried buckling in the seatbelt thinking that was rattling and pressing the zippers on my jacket, but it still happens. It's not a noise you notice with music on and the stereo on my normal volume of "8 to 10." I may just live with that happening til my first service and then have the dealer look at it. I bought this car so I could quit trying to hunt rattles my self (that's all I did daily with my Mustang), 5 years warranty and especially the 1 year "adjustment period" means I should just have the dealer address it. Like I said, I don't hear it with the radio on, which always is, but now that it has been heard, it must be fixed.

Check the body panel side skirt near the pinch weld where you jack the car up. That body color panel on mine seems to have play and will rattle at speed.

 

[Revvdmedia]

Check the body panel side skirt near the pinch weld where you jack the car up. That body color panel on mine seems to have play and will rattle at speed.

Good point that the sound may be from the exterior. Mine is only on coarse/harder bumps and is impact/bump induced. I'm mostly trying to figure out if it's a "normal" sound before I take it in. My latest culprit might be the anchor that the driver's seatbelt attaches to the floor...seems like a potential metal on metal rattle point.

I'd prefer to not take it in and then feel like an idiot if it's something simple like that. If it's not broken, I won't put much effort into fixing it. I just need to KNOW what it is to make myself feel better lol.