ATQ Subframe Collars

[Snowwhite]

well, toe was off on front and rear right. good thing I had it done. Not sure if it was off before I installed the collars, however, but I did have to loosen a good bit to get a couple of them in.

 

[BrianSTINGER2022]

Did they fix these on the 2022 model GT2 or are these still needed?

 

[General_Vodka]

Did they fix these on the 2022 model GT2 or are these still needed?

unless the subframe is aluminum then it's still the same. so probably still needed.

 

[GT Elite]

Did they fix these on the 2022 model GT2 or are these still needed?

I had them installed on 2022, so I would say still needed.

 

[K8 Stinger Store]

Did they fix these on the 2022 model GT2 or are these still needed?

I can 100% confirm that the 2022 models have the exact same subframe and chassis as the 2018 to 2021. Therefore the benefits from installing these chassis collars are still very prominent on the new 2022 stinger

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

Would like to order these, but can someone 100% confirm first?

- For the black cover plates with the tabs (that is referenced back and forth in previous posts)...do we now leave it off the car when installing this kit? Or do we leave it on, torque it down, bending the tabs and hope or the best?

 

[General_Vodka]

Would like to order these, but can someone 100% confirm first?

- For the black cover plates with the tabs (that is referenced back and forth in previous posts)...do we now leave it off the car when installing this kit? Or do we leave it on, torque it down, bending the tabs and hope or the best?

I left mine on and wrenched it down. Still holds fine.

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

I left mine on and wrenched it down. Still holds fine.

Roger that, thanks. I may shave the tabs down a bit, just to make sure.

 

[D.J.]

Did they fix these on the 2022 model GT2 or are these still needed?

There is nothing to "FIX".
The amount of play between the sub frame/chassis is typical for road cars. It is not a defect, it is a design characteristic.

It would be like saying - "did Kia fix the ride height issues for 2022 or do I still need to buy lowering springs?"

 

[K8 Stinger Store]

There is nothing to "FIX".
The amount of play between the sub frame/chassis is typical for road cars. It is not a defect, it is a design characteristic.

It would be like saying - "did Kia fix the ride height issues for 2022 or do I still need to buy lowering springs?"

I guess a better term would be “improve”, rather than “fi. This is not an issue on more expensive vehicles, because they don’t allow for the extra slop or space between the bolt holes in the sub frame and chassis. It’s done this way with Kia because the longer it takes on the assembly line for small details like this, it ends up costing more money and in an effort to offer competitive pricing on their vehicles, I believe this is something that is usually overlooked.

 

[D.J.]

This is not an issue on more expensive vehicles, because they don’t allow for the extra slop or space between the bolt holes in the sub frame and chassis.

How expensive of a car are we talking about?

Subframe collars are made for many road going cars...

Like the Audi S5

Spoon Rear Subframe Rigid Collar For AUDI S5[B8] (50300-8KC-000)

Brand Spoon Product Name Rigid Collar (Chassis Strengthening Collar) Product Descriptions Rigid Collar is a specially designed part made from tempered aluminum. It is inserted between the body and subframe by lifting up the vehicle, loosening the joint bolts one by one, then tightening them back...

www.blackhawkjapan.com

Many others

MQB Front Subframe Locking Collar Upgrade Kit, 8V/8V.5/8S Audi A3/S3/RS3 & TT/TTS/TTRS, Stainless Steel

034Motorsport's MQB Front Subframe Locking Collar Kit eliminates subframe shifting and precisely locates the front subframe on 8V/8V.5 Audi A3/S3/RS3 & 8S Audi TT/TTS/TTRS models. This kit includes 8 precision-machined stainless steel subframe locating collars and 4 new bolts, and can be...

store.034motorsport.com

 

[AusStinger]

Would like to order these, but can someone 100% confirm first?

- For the black cover plates with the tabs (that is referenced back and forth in previous posts)...do we now leave it off the car when installing this kit? Or do we leave it on, torque it down, bending the tabs and hope or the best?

I used a dremel and cut notches in them, then painted them entirely with corrosion prevention paint and installed.

I was never comfortable just wrenching them down.

They went in like a factory fit part.

 

[K8 Stinger Store]

How expensive of a car are we talking about?

Subframe collars are made for many road going cars...

Like the Audi S5

Spoon Rear Subframe Rigid Collar For AUDI S5[B8] (50300-8KC-000)

Brand Spoon Product Name Rigid Collar (Chassis Strengthening Collar) Product Descriptions Rigid Collar is a specially designed part made from tempered aluminum. It is inserted between the body and subframe by lifting up the vehicle, loosening the joint bolts one by one, then tightening them back...

www.blackhawkjapan.com

Many others

MQB Front Subframe Locking Collar Upgrade Kit, 8V/8V.5/8S Audi A3/S3/RS3 & TT/TTS/TTRS, Stainless Steel

034Motorsport's MQB Front Subframe Locking Collar Kit eliminates subframe shifting and precisely locates the front subframe on 8V/8V.5 Audi A3/S3/RS3 & 8S Audi TT/TTS/TTRS models. This kit includes 8 precision-machined stainless steel subframe locating collars and 4 new bolts, and can be...

store.034motorsport.com

I'm not here to argue or debate with you, you are entitled to your own opinion.

I am simply stating the facts that this DOES make an improvement after installing as many other members have mentioned after installing the product.

 

[D.J.]

I am simply stating the facts that this DOES make an improvement after installing as many other members have mentioned after installing the product.

Well that's for sure, and was never contested.

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

I used a dremel and cut notches in them, then painted them entirely with corrosion prevention paint and installed.

I was never comfortable just wrenching them down.

They went in like a factory fit part.

Thanks and that's what I will wind up doing.

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

I just installed these and a few quick tips:

- For the "rear rear", I shaved down the tabs in the plate completely. They have zero reason to be there with the new setup, unless an engineer says otherwise. I started by grinding them down to 2mm, but upon installing it and torqueing them down to 125 ft-lb, they were not sitting well whatsoever and inspired zero confidence. So I just shaved them all the way down and installed the plates without the tabs. It is a glorified washer at this point, but better than the tabs being "kind of" on there. The metal is stout, so have a good grinding wheel handy.

- For all of the fronts, the newest instructions mention loosing all of the bolts at once (but not removing), so the subframe can wiggle for fitment. I did NOT want to fight a heavy subframe and did one bolt at a time. Zero issues and very easy. Some of the factory bolts are beasts and needed a 4 foot breaker bar to break loose. My impact even had trouble.

- For the "front rears", it's helpful to put a jack under the subframe crossmember, in between the two bolts, to keep it from dropping down a tad

- The video is handy to locate the bolts quickly

- Pretty easy all around and took about 2 hours total in the home garage

All in all, even with visual inspections, this kit should be well worth it. There is certainly some play with the factory setup.

 

[STINGER]

I just installed these and a few quick tips:

- For the "rear rear", I shaved down the tabs in the plate completely. They have zero reason to be there with the new setup, unless an engineer says otherwise. I started by grinding them down to 2mm, but upon installing it and torqueing them down to 125 ft-lb, they were not sitting well whatsoever and inspired zero confidence. So I just shaved them all the way down and installed the plates without the tabs. It is a glorified washer at this point, but better than the tabs being "kind of" on there. The metal is stout, so have a good grinding wheel handy.

- For all of the fronts, the newest instructions mention loosing all of the bolts at once (but not removing), so the subframe can wiggle for fitment. I did NOT want to fight a heavy subframe and did one bolt at a time. Zero issues and very easy. Some of the factory bolts are beasts and needed a 4 foot breaker bar to break loose. My impact even had trouble.

- For the "front rears", it's helpful to put a jack under the subframe crossmember, in between the two bolts, to keep it from dropping down a tad

- The video is handy to locate the bolts quickly

- Pretty easy all around and took about 2 hours total in the home garage

All in all, even with visual inspections, this kit should be well worth it. There is certainly some play with the factory setup.

Two years and still the tab issue is not resolved, does the instruction still say "ugga dugga" as the solution for the tabs?

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

Two years and still the tab issue is not resolved, does the instruction still say "ugga dugga" as the solution for the tabs?

Ha, the instructions do not have that anymore and are pretty useful now. Maybe the company doesn't want to assume responsibility for removal of the tabs, as they aren't 100% for sure themselves, but that is me spit-balling.

But in my humble opinion with this kit installed, the tabs have no use whatsoever anymore. Without them, the plate makes full contact with the new spacer, sitting properly. Those who do this will see it for themselves, but just be prepped to cut them down.

 

[Schroedes]

Is a alignment necessary after installing these? Mine are on the way

 

[SKStinger]

Is a alignment necessary after installing these? Mine are on the way

I went for one after. Haven’t had to go back since.