ATQ Subframe Collars

[I'm Tony Danza]

Is a alignment necessary after installing these? Mine are on the way

You should, just in case, as you are messing with the subframes. The thought is that your new alignment will stay in spec much longer, as you are taking out of the subframe "slop".

Just a tip...the instructions call for loosening all of the bolts at once just a tad, before removing them one at a time. I didn't see the advantage of this, plus I didn't want to deal with a 1,500lb subframe that possibly could move a mm the wrong way. I just took one bolt out, replaced it with a new one, tightened it down and moved to the next bolt. Then I went back around and torqued them all down.

It's an easy job and just takes time. Have a breaker bar handy. My impact had trouble with one of the bolts.

 

[Schroedes]

Has anyone noticed when removing the factory bolts that it had shifted at all??

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

Has anyone noticed when removing the factory bolts that it had shifted at all??

Not if you do one bolt at a time. The only thing that will move on you are the "rear, rear" points, but it is just the subframe dropping down a mm at the most. No biggie whatsoever. The front subframe is a cinch and zero movement anywhere, again one bolt at a time.

 

[SKStinger]

Not if you do one bolt at a time. The only thing that will move on you are the "rear, rear" points, but it is just the subframe dropping down a mm at the most. No biggie whatsoever. The front subframe is a cinch and zero movement anywhere, again one bolt at a time.

This is also how I did mine. I did have to use a beefy punch to line up the rear rear as mine shifted quite a bit. Took some elbow grease to get the bolt back in but overall it's not a tough job if you have the right tools.

 

[BelairBruce]

Could this job be done with the car on 140mm lift ramps or does it require to be on jack stands to unload the suspension? I'm thinking of doing the front on ramps doing one bolt at a time but suspect for the rear that may not work.

 

[General_Vodka]

Could this job be done with the car on 140mm lift ramps or does it require to be on jack stands to unload the suspension? I'm thinking of doing the front on ramps doing one bolt at a time but suspect for the rear that may not work.

I recommend Jack stands. You can always jack up the front and finish those. Then move on the the rear. Side note I HIGHLY recommend jacking up the rear subframe when doing those. Makes the holes line up better and tightening easier. When I undid the 2 rear rear bolts the entire subframe dropped down a considerable amount. I couldn't do one at a time as I also had subframe braces. A 2x4 and a jack made the rear so much easier and safer.

 

[BelairBruce]

I recommend Jack stands. You can always jack up the front and finish those. Then move on the the rear. Side note I HIGHLY recommend jacking up the rear subframe when doing those. Makes the holes line up better and tightening easier. When I undid the 2 rear rear bolts the entire subframe dropped down a considerable amount. I couldn't do one at a time as I also had subframe braces. A 2x4 and a jack made the rear so much easier and safer.

I will probably have same issue then (I too have braces), if on ramps would the subframe still drop or will that potentially cause alignment issues?

 

[Schroedes]

I will probably have same issue then (I too have braces), if on ramps would the subframe still drop or will that potentially cause alignment issues?

I'm curious as well. I have 2 jacks and 2 ramps and bolts waiting on my table...

 

[General_Vodka]

I will probably have same issue then (I too have braces), if on ramps would the subframe still drop or will that potentially cause alignment issues?

I think it will still move even on ramps. Maybe not as much but the wheel control arms and whatnot don't lock the wheels in place, they can move so the subframe would still be able to move.

 

[General_Vodka]

A harbor freight or AutoZone bottle jack and a 2x4 will probably help you clarify if it moves. Just put a little bit of pressure on the subframe and then take out the bolts. If the subframe puts pressure on the jack then you know it moves even on ramps. then you will be glad you got that jack there. If it doesn't move then you get cool internet like points. Win win.
I still think it will move maybe a little bit. The subframe and rear diff are not paper wights, they got some heft for sure.

 

[BelairBruce]

I think it will still move even on ramps. Maybe not as much but the wheel control arms and whatnot don't lock the wheels in place, they can move so the subframe would still be able to move.

Thanks for the quick response. On all my other cars this is not an issue, but I can not see good places to put the jack stands under the car other than the small piece of sill which will have my trolley jack under it. I have not been under the rear yet so once I have lifted it hopefully a solid place to put a stand (not covered in tray) will be obvious.

 

[General_Vodka]

Thanks for the quick response. On all my other cars this is not an issue, but I can not see good places to put the jack stands under the car other than the small piece of sill which will have my trolley jack under it. I have not been under the rear yet so once I have lifted it hopefully a solid place to put a stand (not covered in tray) will be obvious.

You mean when you jack up the car or the jackstands? To jack up the car I don't use the 2-3 inch area near the front and rear wheels. I use a pinch weld adapter thing and shove it between the side skirt and the pinch weld. Works great and leaves the 3 inch gap open for my jackstands.
This is what I used.
Byenins Large Slotted Universal Magnetic Jack Pad Weld Frame Rail Adapter for All Model Cars-blue Amazon.com

 

[BelairBruce]

You mean when you jack up the car or the jackstands? To jack up the car I don't use the 2-3 inch area near the front and rear wheels. I use a pinch weld adapter thing and shove it between the side skirt and the pinch weld. Works great and leaves the 3 inch gap open for my jackstands.
This is what I used.
Byenins Large Slotted Universal Magnetic Jack Pad Weld Frame Rail Adapter for All Model Cars-blue Amazon.com

I've got the slotted runner pads for the pinch seam, its just there is very little pinch seam visible, most is covered by plastic rocker cover which is a pain as it only leaves a small amount accessible. There is only 6 inches visible and its almost impossible to get a jack and a jack stand close enough, I have butchered a scissor jack to try and get it to work.

 

[General_Vodka]

I've got the slotted runner pads for the pinch seam, its just there is very little pinch seam visible, most is covered by plastic rocker cover which is a pain as it only leaves a small amount accessible.

i assume the runner pads are flush and the slot is cut into them right? Yeah, that would pose a challenge as my adapter has a pretty narrow opening allowing it to sit between the plastic and the pinch weld.

 

[BelairBruce]

i assume the runner pads are flush and the slot is cut into them right? Yeah, that would pose a challenge as my adapter has a pretty narrow opening allowing it to sit between the plastic and the pinch weld.

I see now what you are saying, looks like I will be ordering one of those adapters, thanks for you help.

 

[I'm Tony Danza]

I recommend Jack stands. You can always jack up the front and finish those. Then move on the the rear. Side note I HIGHLY recommend jacking up the rear subframe when doing those. Makes the holes line up better and tightening easier. When I undid the 2 rear rear bolts the entire subframe dropped down a considerable amount. I couldn't do one at a time as I also had subframe braces. A 2x4 and a jack made the rear so much easier and safer.

Same as I did. All recommended.

I see now what you are saying, looks like I will be ordering one of those adapters, thanks for you help.

I have the same adapter, but couldn't squeeze it in between the plastic side skirt and the pinch weld. I just found a spot along the side rail that wasn't too far away from the factory jack point. One of my jacks has a rubber pad, so the side skirt doesn't take damage. A towel would do the same.

You will see that certain parts of the plastic side skirts have clips with no give. I would find a spot between the clips, so the skirt has some give when jacking. It will only move a mm or so, FYI.

After I jacked it up a few inches away from the factory points, I just put jackstands there and called it a day.

Every time I jack it up a few inches away from the main jack point, I do clinch up a little, but I do not know of any other way to get it on stands.

 

[derekcal]

Is there any use re-installing the plates with tabs? I ended up removing them completely, since I am also using ultra-racing rear subframe brace. I didn't have enough thread to tighten the nut with the plates, brace, and the collars installed. So I left the plates out. Thoughts?

 

[ht_addict]

Had my dealer do it while installing my sway bars.

 

[General_Vodka]

Is there any use re-installing the plates with tabs? I ended up removing them completely, since I am also using ultra-racing rear subframe brace. I didn't have enough thread to tighten the nut with the plates, brace, and the collars installed. So I left the plates out. Thoughts?

Really? I had no issues. Then again I did jack up the rear subframe when I did mine. Helps a lot.

 

[derekcal]

Really? I had no issues. Then again I did jack up the rear subframe when I did mine. Helps a lot.

You have the ultra-racing rear subframe brace installed as well?