Black Chrome Discoloring

[Johnnyfive]

I have a chip in the trim on the lower grill and the material shows as white. Do we think the grill and trim are the same material?

 

[terrelltechsup]

You could very well be right. One of the disadvantage of aluminum over another metal is it is non-metallic. If it was a real metal and was metallic, this could easily be confirmed with a magnet. I used a magnet to see if our hoods are aluminum or steel, which I confirmed to be steel.

I'm actually surprised if Kia used a real metal on this trim. Considering how convincing artificial materials can look, I'm a bit surprised when they spring the extra cost to give us the real thing.

As a counter to your notion, I wonder about the black chrome accents in the bumper. On my lower grille, I've found a bubble in the material, leading me to believe it is a fake overlay like fake chrome grilles. There is no way this would happen on a true metal surface. Also, there are those here who have found chips down to plastic (it appears) on the front black chrome as well.

I get what you are trying to say, but Aluminum is a is a silvery-white, soft, non-magnetic and ductile (real) metal in the boron group(courtesy Wikipedia). Magnets do not confirm a material is a metal, just that said material produces a magnetic field due to uneven distribution of electrons in the material's atoms. Even polymers can be magnetic.

 

[Rob M]

You could very well be right. One of the disadvantage of aluminum over another metal is it is non-metallic. If it was a real metal and was metallic, this could easily be confirmed with a magnet. I used a magnet to see if our hoods are aluminum or steel, which I confirmed to be steel.

I'm actually surprised if Kia used a real metal on this trim. Considering how convincing artificial materials can look, I'm a bit surprised when they spring the extra cost to give us the real thing.

As a counter to your notion, I wonder about the black chrome accents in the bumper. On my lower grille, I've found a bubble in the material, leading me to believe it is a fake overlay like fake chrome grilles. There is no way this would happen on a true metal surface. Also, there are those here who have found chips down to plastic (it appears) on the front black chrome as well.

There are only the 6 window trim pieces that I am aware of that are aluminum. The mirror housings, grill accents, and other black chrome pieces are likely ABS plastic covered with a shiny substance (chrome plating, vacuum metalizing, spray chrome, who knows).

 

[Revvdmedia]

There are only the 6 window trim pieces that I am aware of that are aluminum. The mirror housings, grill accents, and other black chrome pieces are likely ABS plastic covered with a shiny substance (chrome plating, vacuum metalizing, spray chrome, who knows).

Could very well be the case. The annoying thing is that means two similar looking materials need two different types of maintenance. I'd like to coat them with something to see if it offers any longevity and easier cleaning, but I have to be certain what the materials are and what they are topped with. I really like ceramic coating (for paint), but it is really made to work best with paint, not necessary other materials.

 

[Rob M]

I have a chip in the trim on the lower grill and the material shows as white. Do we think the grill and trim are the same material?

All the black chrome (mirrored finish) trim is hard plastic (probably acrylonitrile butadiene styrene, abbreviated ABS). Window trim (b4 and after pics in posts 90 and 94) appear to be anodized aluminum. You would therefore have a chip through the black chrome finish in the grill exposing the white colored ABS plastic.

 

[Rob M]

The annoying thing is that means two similar looking materials need two different types of maintenance.

The colors are fairly similar but the surfaces are very different. The polished aluminum has a satin or semi-gloss appearance whereas the black chrome is mirror-like. About the same as the difference between chrome plated and polished aluminum wheels. But yes, probably requires two different approaches to detailing.

 

[Revvdmedia]

The colors are fairly similar but the surfaces are very different. The polished aluminum has a satin or semi-gloss appearance whereas the black chrome is mirror-like. About the same as the difference between chrome plated and polished aluminum wheels. But yes, probably requires two different approaches to detailing.

Now that I looked at your posts 90 and 94 I do think at least through your picture, the window/rear trim does appear more metallic and less fake. I have a keen eye for defects and cleanliness when detailing, but I honestly never inspected these materials to see what they were made of prior to now. Right now I'd just like to protect them as they are now rather than them getting bad like some other's.

 

[Manaz]

You could very well be right. One of the disadvantage of aluminum over another metal is it is non-metallic. If it was a real metal and was metallic, this could easily be confirmed with a magnet. I used a magnet to see if our hoods are aluminum or steel, which I confirmed to be steel.

Aluminium is absolutely metallic, because it is a metal.

The magnet test only works to identify ferrous (iron-based) metals, and even then not all of them - many stainless steel compounds are not magnetic, but are definitely based on iron.

 

[Rob M]

Aluminium is absolutely metallic, because it is a metal.

The magnet test only works to identify ferrous (iron-based) metals, and even then not all of them - many stainless steel compounds are not magnetic, but are definitely based on iron.

I think he inadvertently stated "non-metallic" when he meant to say "non-magnetic".

 

[Manaz]

I think he inadvertently stated "non-metallic" when he meant to say "non-magnetic".

Entirely possible, given aluminium is non-magnetic.

 

[Revvdmedia]

Aluminium is absolutely metallic, because it is a metal.

The magnet test only works to identify ferrous (iron-based) metals, and even then not all of them - many stainless steel compounds are not magnetic, but are definitely based on iron.

That was a typo on my part and was meant to be "magnetic" rather than metallic.

I have a rudimentary understanding of this concept since I was trained in non destructive testing, particularly magnetic particle testing. Using MPI is useless for non-ferromagnetic materials, so I would regularly need to test the magnetic properties on any material that were not the standard AISI 4130 we generally used for our products, which was simply done with a magnet.

Regardless, my only reason for mentioning that is the fact that Rob M mentions the trim may be aluminum, and he may very well be right, I'd sleep better at night knowing this was absolute fact using a testing method. The only non-equipment based method I can think of other than visual is a touch test in the cold. Typically metals in the cold feel colder to the touch than plastics when in the same ambient conditions. I have plenty of experience with this in our -40C winters...ask me how I know a plastic shift knob is a lot warmer than a metal one in winter. ;D

 

[Manaz]

That was a typo on my part and was meant to be "magnetic" rather than metallic.

All clear then.

 

[Rob M]

Another consideration with anodized aluminum trim is that it by definition is anodic - it's a sacrificial metal and is reacting with its environment all the while giving up electrons resulting in the visible surface oxidation, similar to using zinc, magnesium, or aluminum anodes on a boat to protect the drive unit and other metal parts from constant exposure to water. Left unprotected, the trim will continuously react resulting in a quick return to a spotty, grimy look. When I first posted in this thread I mentioned that I suspected water droplets from condensation as being an accelerator of the effect. This makes sense because the anodic reaction will take place at a much quicker rate in wet/high humidity conditions. If you wake up most mornings and there is condensation on your car expect to see faster rates of oxidation. If you live in a desert, have a garage, or otherwise dry environment you probably won't experience much in the way of oxidation.

 

[Rob M]

I have plenty of experience with this in our -40C winters...ask me how I know a plastic shift knob is a lot warmer than a metal one in winter. ;D

Flick, is that you?

 

[Revvdmedia]

Another consideration with anodized aluminum trim is that it by definition is anodic - it's a sacrificial metal and is reacting with its environment all the while giving up electrons resulting in the visible surface oxidation, similar to using zinc, magnesium, or aluminum anodes on a boat to protect the drive unit and other metal parts from constant exposure to water. Left unprotected, the trim will continuously react resulting in a quick return to a spotty, grimy look. When I first posted in this thread I mentioned that I suspected water droplets from condensation as being an accelerator of the effect. This makes sense because the anodic reaction will take place at a much quicker rate in wet/high humidity conditions. If you wake up most mornings and there is condensation on your car expect to see faster rates of oxidation. If you live in a desert, have a garage, or otherwise dry environment you probably won't experience much in the way of oxidation.

All very likely. My car is only outside at work for a normal workday and is otherwise garaged. Our resident with the most perfect Stinger, @MerlintheMad, also noted his trim is in good condition. He also states he washes his car a few times a week, so this water condensation adding to oxidation is washed away by his cleaning efforts. My trim is pretty good with only a hint of this defect, my garaging may be slowing this effect. I admittedly haven't washed the car as much as I normally would like, because IT WON'T STOP RAINING.

 

[Rob M]

All very likely. My car is only outside at work for a normal workday and is otherwise garaged. Our resident with the most perfect Stinger, @MerlintheMad, also noted his trim is in good condition. He also states he washes his car a few times a week, so this water condensation adding to oxidation is washed away by his cleaning efforts. My trim is pretty good with only a hint of this defect, my garaging may be slowing this effect. I admittedly haven't washed the car as much as I normally would like, because IT WON'T STOP RAINING.

Maybe @MerlintheMad could do an experiment for us since Yootaw is mostly desert? If he could drive his Stinger 20 miles from his home to the northwest (315 deg), park it overnight, and then report back to us on any degradation to the trim.

 

[BlaydeX15]

I'm in Utah, and my trim is messed up like this after I started parking outside every day (Moved, no garage.)

I've got an uneducated hunch that it's accelerated by wiper fluid though. The windshield wiper fluid runs down the trim like a river when at speed. My trim is still nearly perfect right in front of the mirror housing, which is where wiper fluid never reaches.

Who knows though! I'm taking my car in to get detailed on Friday, and I'll ask the guy to put some elbow grease into those pieces.

Edit: mine. Shiny spot is where I managed to clean it, but didn't want to go too ham on it in case I cut through the paint or clearcoat or whatever.

 

[Revvdmedia]

I'm in Utah, and my trim is messed up like this after I started parking outside every day (Moved, no garage.)

I've got an uneducated hunch that it's accelerated by wiper fluid though. The windshield wiper fluid runs down the trim like a river when at speed. My trim is still nearly perfect right in front of the mirror housing, which is where wiper fluid never reaches.

Who knows though! I'm taking my car in to get detailed on Friday, and I'll ask the guy to put some elbow grease into those pieces.

Edit: mine. Shiny spot is where I managed to clean it, but didn't want to go too ham on it in case I cut through the paint or clearcoat or whatever.

View attachment 30272

If you're taking your car to a good detailing shop, can you ask them their recommendation on that trim? I'd be interested to see a professional's opinion on maintenance and repair of that trim piece.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I usually wash my car once a week; more when it gets rained on. I only use soft water: I've never hand washed with any soaps or cleaners of any kind. The Stinger is under a carport that opens to the north (the best possible direction in the northern hemisphere). My trim is still pristine after sixteen months. I'm retired so my car doesn't sit out in the sun for long, regular "sessions". All of this is pointing to weathering being the main culprit. And if you have any chemicals coating the trim then the weathering is compounded.

 

[Revvdmedia]

I spoke with my local detailer yesterday, the kind that is good enough to get repeat business from owners of exotic cars, Porsches, Vipers...etc. The person I talked so was actually incredibly familiar with the Stinger (I didn't ask how) and he even knew about the "first sunroof repair in this city took 6 months" so he seems to know this car. He has seen the weathering on the trim and just suggested very mild polish to get it back to new (a cleaner polish, basically no abrasives) and then any type of sealant of your choice, not a specific recommendation. I have a can of Meguiar's Fast Finish in the garage, that might do the trick, applied every 5-6 months at the least I think? He didn't even push me to buy anything, he just suggested I use what I have.