What pads should I get?

[Ah GetFd]

They were pushing it here in the late 60's. So...

It's hard to change a big country. Note the whole of the USA fits inside Australia or the whole of Europe............

 

[LordKOTL]

I did mention Australia.....

In July 1974, Australia changed all its units of measurement to the metric system. Because of this all the road speed signs and the legal speed limits were changed from miles per hour to kilometres per hour

Most countries in the world use kilometres, note we spell it kilometres in the English/Australian/European spelling.

Eventually I expect the USA will convert to metric. 1 litre (we spell it litre), 1 litre equals 1 kilo. 1000 kilos equals 1 tonne. 1000 litres also equals 1 tonne. So much easier. 100kmh..........pretty much the standard max speed limit.

The Australian delivered Kia seems to have a far better warranty. One of the reasons I bought the new Stinger GT in January then a second new one in March is because of the 7 year unlimted kilometre warranty. We also get free roadside assist for 7 years if it is ever needed.

As far as rotors someone mentioned, they may warp due to the OEM pads. Possibly. European cars such as awful BMWs use very soft rotors and hard pads so maybe they are on Kias. Hopefully not.

The G8 V8 I owned prior (Commodore SSV) had hard rotors and softer pads.........you got these.

From what my experience is so far after...5 days with my new Street Warrior pads, The I think the rotors are good and hard like the G8/Commodore, but the stock pads here in North America are soft.

As I heard on one Youtube video (Forgeot what it was or I'd link), and what has been my experience: If the rotors themselves were bad, if you try to re-bed the pads, the brakes should still pulse. If you re-bed the pads and they don't, it's pad deposits. Mine didn't pulse after re-bedding, and so far after my usual braking habits with the new pads, there is zero pulsation (so far--knock on wood)

Per your previous post, I think that Kia did do some homework on the car, but they also had to bow to pressure from the consumer focus groups, and of course the potential for profit. The story I was told here in the states was that they used the very soft pads because they supposedly generated less brake dust, which I believe the consumers said they hated. By using such a soft pad, the unintended consequence of deposits on the rotors happened, and the further unintended consequence of being able to charge more money for trying to fix the issue, in my opinion, prevents them from doing a real fix/TSB, like changing out what I think are organic pads to ceramic.

At least that's what I think is happening. I could be wrong.

They were pushing it here in the late 60's. So...

They were pushing it in the 80's in school as well. I think they're still pushing it but I doubt metric will take off in the US in my lifetime. There's just too much resistance from people who just won't bother trying to change.

 

[Ah GetFd]

I have always been sceptical of machining rotors. It seems like a past time that all brake shops and dealers want to do. Unless the rotor is warped there is no need to machine. But if it does, get NEW rotors as you most likely won't get yours back but someone else's machined rotors that have been machined more than once requiring a replacement next time due to undersize. New Rotors are pretty cheap. The labour to machine rotors or replace is the same in fact less for new......yeah we also put U in Labour and Colour......comes from the colonialisation from the English..........

Yes I don't expect the USA will go to metric. In England they put litres in their car but drive in MPH..........or is it the other way around? Been a while since I was in London.

Still I only have to think in metric. Airline pilots have to do all sorts of conversions depending where they fly.

 

[KDM Harley]

Here are some links:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-Z26-2144
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-Z26-6012

Came with all the hardware.

Got ‘em now to install ‘em.

 

[ElChanclo]

Got ‘em now to install ‘em.

Eeeeeey, just got mine today too, join the club! I gotta brake em in asap before i track em.

If anyone in Canada is trying to get these, give RockAuto a look. The prices are dirt cheap compared to what's available in Canada, and their shipping is reasonable and quick. Ordered mine Monday night and got them Thursday afternoon.

Asked my local Lordco if they had any pads for a 22 stinger, they said nada. Asked to check for an 18 stinger and they only had the wagner ZD2145 and ZD2144 for $180 and $114 CAD respectively. Rockauto lists them for $82 and $49 CAD, so even with the $27 shipping you'd be way ahead.

 

[DavidinGA]

Here are some links:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-Z26-2144
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-Z26-6012

Came with all the hardware.

Changing out JUST the front pads should fix our "issues" with pulsating brake feel, right?

 

[Volfy]

I have always been sceptical of machining rotors. It seems like a past time that all brake shops and dealers want to do. Unless the rotor is warped there is no need to machine. But if it does, get NEW rotors as you most likely won't get yours back but someone else's machined rotors that have been machined more than once requiring a replacement next time due to undersize. New Rotors are pretty cheap. The labour to machine rotors or replace is the same in fact less for new......yeah we also put U in Labour and Colour......comes from the colonialisation from the English..........

Yes I don't expect the USA will go to metric. In England they put litres in their car but drive in MPH..........or is it the other way around? Been a while since I was in London.

Still I only have to think in metric. Airline pilots have to do all sorts of conversions depending where they fly.

There are all kinds of wrong assumptions in what your wrote.

First, there are actually structural advantages to resurfaced rotors. Main reason is similar to why some race car engine builders prefer to re-machine used engine block for blueprinting or a precision build, when brand new short blocks are easily attainable. "Green" cast iron that has been freshly machined can contain unrelieved stresses that will twist itself ever so slightly out of shape after the metal has been heat-cycled with normal use. Once that happens those stresses are gone and the "aged" cast iron can be more dimensional stable.

As long as the old rotors are not abused or have hot-spotted, getting them turned by a competent shop will give you rotors that out-perform the exact same rotors brand new.

Second, most shops that offer rotor resurfacing service will be highly unlikely to have the exact same rotors in the shop at the same time you bring yours in. No shop would risk potential problems with mixing different customers' rotor anyway. I got mine turned for $25/rotor, so it's not exactly a super lucrative gig. Most shops offer it to give customers an incentives to walk into their store TWICE - hoping you'd buy other stuff while you are there. And really... if you are that worried about it, mark your own rotors so you can be sure you are getting the exactly same ones back.

Third, a good shop takes off the bare minimum thickness necessary to get the rotors to be smooth and "square" again. It isn't much. This is my rotors after resurfacing. FYI, standard rotor thickness is 30mm. Service minimum thickness is 28.4mm. These "used rotors" still have a long way to go.



Lastly, while replacement rotor can be cheap, good ones are not. I would stay the heck away from cheap replacement, as they cause more problems than they solve. And this includes a whole of of those racy looking drilled and slotted rotors that are on sale for cheap... many of which look like they were done by job shops that have zero clue on how to pattern cross-drilling and slotting properly.

The OEM rotors are quality stock made by Brembo. If they are still in good shape, you'd be well served by resurfacing them and keeping a known quality.

 

[Transmetal]

My stock pads have been shit on my car from basically day one but only if I'm driving really fast then have to stop suddenly do they shudder. I was driving one day with my son in the car on a street probably going 30 and some yahoo pulls outta the McDonald's drive thru, my car actually stopped on a dime, I was surprised how decent it was. So I just have decided to leave em in there until they are more worn then I'll have to do research. I want it all! Good stopping power, no noise, low dust, long life. I really like the pads that I have on the Lightning (Hawk ceramic) but those don't last that long, at least not on a heavy truck.

 

[DavidinGA]

My stock pads have been shit on my car from basically day one but only if I'm driving really fast then have to stop suddenly do they shudder. I was driving one day with my son in the car on a street probably going 30 and some yahoo pulls outta the McDonald's drive thru, my car actually stopped on a dime, I was surprised how decent it was. So I just have decided to leave em in there until they are more worn then I'll have to do research. I want it all! Good stopping power, no noise, low dust, long life. I really like the pads that I have on the Lightning (Hawk ceramic) but those don't last that long, at least not on a heavy truck.

My stock pads do fine if I'm heavy on the brakes, but during normal daily driving that's very uncommon. Normal light brake use is absolute garbage on these oem pads...

 

[DavidinGA]

Can anyone comment on some of the comments left on Amazon for the powerstop pads? Anyone here have noise issues? Thx


"Rattles badly due to thin backing-plate
Reviewed in the United States on July 21, 2022
Verified Purchase
I'm very disappointed with PowerStop the pads sit loose in your Brembo calipers (vertically they stay loose) due to the thin backing-plate.

This is very poor design and I'm looking into returning them or throwing them away. I wouldn't continue using them or consider PowerStop anymore for future purchases"


"3.0 out of 5 stars Noisy
Reviewed in the United States on November 7, 2022

Put these on my 22 Stinger. Installation was easy, but they are noisy, especially when in reverse. Thought it was an install, so I redid them, regreased and rebed them, still squeaking."


Amazon Link
PowerStop Pads

 

[Volfy]

Can anyone comment on some of the comments left on Amazon for the powerstop pads? Anyone here have noise issues? Thx


"Rattles badly due to thin backing-plate
Reviewed in the United States on July 21, 2022
Verified Purchase
I'm very disappointed with PowerStop the pads sit loose in your Brembo calipers (vertically they stay loose) due to the thin backing-plate.

This is very poor design and I'm looking into returning them or throwing them away. I wouldn't continue using them or consider PowerStop anymore for future purchases"


"3.0 out of 5 stars Noisy
Reviewed in the United States on November 7, 2022

Put these on my 22 Stinger. Installation was easy, but they are noisy, especially when in reverse. Thought it was an install, so I redid them, regreased and rebed them, still squeaking."


Amazon Link
PowerStop Pads

I have no personal experience with Powerstop, so I can't comment on their merits or demerits.

I would, however, read any of those reviews with a very large grain of salt. It is impossible to tell what precisely caused the problems these folks have experienced. Frankly, people do some really stupid s**t:

1. Not cleaning rotors thoroughly. New cast iron rotors are typically marinated in preservation oil. I use a large can of brake cleaner for EACH new rotor. Even old rotors reused quite often need some cleaning, just from handling them while doing the brake job.
2. Slapping new pads directly onto old worn rotors - with heavy deposits - without getting them resurfaces.
3. Not seating new pads properly; not bedding new pads properly. YES, those are two different processes. Some of these comments read like they haven't a clue how these processes are supposed to be done.
4. Not setting the rear drum brake clearance properly, after R&R the rear rotor.

Sometimes, you can get away with doing some of the above. However, like any rules of stupid, the more you violate, the more likely you are gonna run into trouble. When that happens... not saying it couldn't possibly the the fault of the product. However, human nature being what it is, nobody blames themselves.

 

[LordKOTL]

Changing out JUST the front pads should fix our "issues" with pulsating brake feel, right?

I've heard from some people that changing out just the fronts works. But I opted for changing all of them. I can't say for certain what the difference is between all 4 and just fronts.

My stock pads have been shit on my car from basically day one but only if I'm driving really fast then have to stop suddenly do they shudder. I was driving one day with my son in the car on a street probably going 30 and some yahoo pulls outta the McDonald's drive thru, my car actually stopped on a dime, I was surprised how decent it was. So I just have decided to leave em in there until they are more worn then I'll have to do research. I want it all! Good stopping power, no noise, low dust, long life. I really like the pads that I have on the Lightning (Hawk ceramic) but those don't last that long, at least not on a heavy truck.

Honestly, the stockers did stop the car very well, it's just the deposits got really old really fast. Even with the stock pads, if you just re-bed them it tends to fix the pulsation issue for awhile.

So far the Powerstop Z26 Street Warriors have indeed shot at the walls of heartache : No pulsation, stops well, Haven't noticed much brakedust (that can change after I've had them longer), but I can't speak on the longevity. I just figured (a) my wife hated the pulsation when she'd ride with me, (b), she does not like the heavy G-forces needed for re-bedding the pads, (c) Re-bedding would just wear them down fast, and (d) the longer I waited, them more of a chance the rotors would have wear on them as well, and might necessitate a swapout.

 

[ElChanclo]

FYI I just installed the Powerstop Z26 front & rear pads I got a few weeks ago and they clunk whenever I change direction (drive <-> reverse) and brake, usually when parking. It's not loud, but I't definitely there, like the quiet dull clink of two billiard balls. I used all the included hardware; pins, retaining brackets, and grease. My batch is dated 2022/04/02 on the box.

 

[DavidinGA]

FYI

I went with Bosch BC1001 pads and they are great. Dirt cheap and zero issues. No more pulsating.

 

[NYBIOMED]

EBC Yellow Stuff are awesome, a bit pricey, but pads generally last several years or more, so why give a crap about the extra $75 when you amortize it over 3-4 years. I love my brakes in my Stinger, no needs to change a thing!

 

[GotStinger?]

I highly recommend our K8SS Elite Sport Ceramic Brake Pads. These are the pads that I use on my car and they perform well on my daily commute or when I want to do more spirited driving. These pads are purpose built to eliminate the negative effects you experience from the OEM pads. If you would like to purchase or find more information you can view the product page: (FOUND HERE).

How easy are these to install yourself?

 

[Daniel @ K8 Stinger Store]

How easy are these to install yourself?

It's fairly straightforward. If you have ever done a brake job, it's all the same. Our pads don't use or require any special equipment. If you have never swapped pads on any car before, we recommend consulting a professional!

 

[GotStinger?]

ok ... cool, I have done lots of brakes. thanks!

 

[Daniel @ K8 Stinger Store]

ok ... cool, I have done lots of brakes. thanks!

Perfect! You're welcome