Torque convert leak

[Zstinger]

2019 stinger GT all-wheel-drive 40,000 miles and our other 2019 GT two with 60,000 miles have both had torque converter leaks from the transmission Bell housing covered under warranty but a real pain in the ass takes nearly a month to get the car back anybody else experiencing this what are the odds both our stingers fell victim to this leak?

 

[Snicklefritz]

I could joke about the odds, but refrain. We have two Stingers as well, an '18 and a '19.

How does this issue reveal itself?

 

[Zstinger]

I could joke about the odds, but refrain. We have two Stingers as well, an '18 and a '19.

How does this issue reveal itself?

Have to pull off the splash panel during oil change. The leak will show on the trans bell housing

 

[Snicklefritz]

Have to pull off the splash panel during oil change. The leak will show on the trans bell housing

Thanks. Why is that serious? It looks like a very minimal leak, almost like heavy sweating. Does the splash panel have a lot of fluid soaking into it?

 

[ht_addict]

If your talking main seal, I have same issue. Took car in for oil change yesterday and to have them look at the filter housing cause I thought I had a leak from it. Which I do. Turns out the Main Seal also has a leak. So its submit to Kia Protect for approval and get her fixed. Was told its a 2-3 day job(22hrs). Glad I bought the extended warranty that runs through Aug 2027. Car only has 104k/km on it.

 

[Big E]

Have to pull off the splash panel during oil change. The leak will show on the trans bell housing

Same thing here. Has had this since day 1 (2019 GT1 AWD - currently at 49k miles.) It's motor oil, not trans fluid (not red). *Please let us know if you get this fixed what the issue is - and how much to repair.*

 

[ht_addict]

Same thing here. Has had this since day 1 (2019 GT1 AWD - currently at 49k miles.) It's motor oil, not trans fluid (not red). *Please let us know if you get this fixed what the issue is - and how much to repair.*

If you have had it since day 1, get it fixed before warranty runs out. I'm told its 22hr job. So at $150hr, your looking at $4k with taxes in.

 

[Big E]

If you have had it since day 1, get it fixed before warranty runs out. I'm told it’s 22hr job. So at $150hr, you’re looking at $4k with taxes in.

Took it to dealer I bought it from shortly after purchasing and they blew me off and said it was coming from my catch can - but it’s obviously not. Guess I’ll have to find another dealer that doesn’t lie.

 

[Snicklefritz]

Took it to dealer I bought it from shortly after purchasing and they blew me off and said it was coming from my catch can - but it’s obviously not. Guess I’ll have to find another dealer that doesn’t lie.

Remove the catch can and take it back in and see what "they" say. Ha hah.

 

[Big E]

Appointment now booked at another area dealer. (More trustworthy i hope)

From MS CoPilot:

Oil collecting on the bellhousing with a wet area slightly higher up on a 3.3L Stinger GT almost always points to a leak above the rear main seal, not the seal itself. Rear main seal failures on this engine are extremely uncommon, and the patterns seen across owner reports and technical discussions point to a few repeat offenders that drip downward and land exactly where you’re seeing it.

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Likely leak sources above the bellhousing

These are the most common places oil escapes on the 3.3L twin‑turbo and then runs down the back of the engine:

Valve cover gasket (especially passenger‑side rear)

Owners frequently report seepage at the rear of the passenger‑side valve cover, which then travels down the back of the block and onto the bellhousing. One forum case describes a “minor leak toward the rear by passenger side” that produced burning smells and oil residue in this exact area. Kia Stinger ...

Oil pan RTV seepage

The factory RTV sealant can begin to seep at the upper edges. Airflow while driving pushes the oil rearward, making it appear as if it originates from the bellhousing.

PCV/breather system misting

Oil vapor from the PCV system can condense and run down the back of the engine, especially in colder climates.

Turbo oil feed lines (SC300 already done)

Since your SC300 recall is completed, the LH turbo oil feed pipe/hose should have been replaced. That eliminates the most common leak source, but it’s still worth visually confirming the new line is dry because this area sits high enough to drip down the rear of the engine.

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Why this still doesn’t look like a rear main seal

A true rear main seal leak typically leaves oil inside the bellhousing, often visible through the inspection port, and tends to stay localized rather than appearing higher on the engine. The fact that you see wetness above the bellhousing strongly suggests the leak originates from a component higher up.

---

How to pinpoint the source

Shops typically use a simple but effective method:

• Clean the area thoroughly
• Add UV dye to the engine oil
• Drive for 10–20 miles
• Inspect with a UV light to see the exact origin


This is the most reliable way to distinguish between a valve cover, oil pan, PCV, or other upper‑engine leak.

---

 

[Dmango]

Appointment now booked at another area dealer. (More trustworthy i hope)

From MS CoPilot:

Oil collecting on the bellhousing with a wet area slightly higher up on a 3.3L Stinger GT almost always points to a leak above the rear main seal, not the seal itself. Rear main seal failures on this engine are extremely uncommon, and the patterns seen across owner reports and technical discussions point to a few repeat offenders that drip downward and land exactly where you’re seeing it.

---

Likely leak sources above the bellhousing

These are the most common places oil escapes on the 3.3L twin‑turbo and then runs down the back of the engine:

Valve cover gasket (especially passenger‑side rear)

Owners frequently report seepage at the rear of the passenger‑side valve cover, which then travels down the back of the block and onto the bellhousing. One forum case describes a “minor leak toward the rear by passenger side” that produced burning smells and oil residue in this exact area. Kia Stinger ...

Oil pan RTV seepage

The factory RTV sealant can begin to seep at the upper edges. Airflow while driving pushes the oil rearward, making it appear as if it originates from the bellhousing.

PCV/breather system misting

Oil vapor from the PCV system can condense and run down the back of the engine, especially in colder climates.

Turbo oil feed lines (SC300 already done)

Since your SC300 recall is completed, the LH turbo oil feed pipe/hose should have been replaced. That eliminates the most common leak source, but it’s still worth visually confirming the new line is dry because this area sits high enough to drip down the rear of the engine.

---

Why this still doesn’t look like a rear main seal

A true rear main seal leak typically leaves oil inside the bellhousing, often visible through the inspection port, and tends to stay localized rather than appearing higher on the engine. The fact that you see wetness above the bellhousing strongly suggests the leak originates from a component higher up.

---

How to pinpoint the source

Shops typically use a simple but effective method:

• Clean the area thoroughly
• Add UV dye to the engine oil
• Drive for 10–20 miles
• Inspect with a UV light to see the exact origin


This is the most reliable way to distinguish between a valve cover, oil pan, PCV, or other upper‑engine leak.

---

I had a simiiler situtation like yours. It turns out to be leaking from the transmission pump seal inside of the bellhousing. Kia replace the transmission and it took a total of 3 months to get a transmission and installed.