The Kia Stinger Oil Thread

[Vermillion]

My issue is less than a thousand a year and short trips to work......so once a year every spring

Your scenario makes perfect sense, I do around 8 / 9K a year at the moment and in my scenario it does scream a little we need a way to pay for warranty work or we designed an engine with 80's principles. This isn't voodoo anymore, you can get lab reports from the likes of Blackstone listing oil density (sludging), metals and mineral quantity.

A decent fully synthetic LL oil will last 10,000 miles without issue, BMW's M340i (3.0L 374HP) in Europe (no joke here) has an 18K oil service interval. Despite examples of long running cars on their schedules it does seem a little optimistic, I'd love to see a lab report at 100K.

 

[rocket23]

Your scenario makes perfect sense,

seldom do I read this when it comes to me and the life I lead,lol

 

[DiCenzo]

The factory oil (that came in your Stinger) is Total Quartz 9000 Energy HKS G310.

For some reason, I'm having serious issues posting. It keeps saying it looks like spam. I'll try removing all useful information and see if it works. You can PM me for a link to the source of that information, because the site won't seem to let me post it.

HKS G310 is an extended mileage oil, designed to last 30,000KM or 18,641 miles. The standard 9000 series can be ordered on Amazon for $38. I did a lot of research, and Total oil actually is better than pretty much anything else. It's the manufacturer recommended product for all new German makers as well as Hyundai/Kia. Using Mobil 1 probably wouldn't make much of a difference, but you should get slightly better mileage and longer engine life with Total.

I wrote a fair amount about oil, which rating to use under different conditions and why, but I am guessing the few paragraphs of info was the issue with posting? I don't know. Anyway...

In short, if you're trying to decide which oil to buy, Kia's answer is Total Quartz 9000 5w-30.*

*which rating depends on climate, and whether you have a 2.0L or V6. I've deleted all the explanations on which to use and when. Hopefully this will go through.

Awesome!
Thank you for the detailed description.

 

[rocket23]

I'm wondering if the spring time oil changes need to be pushed back to the fall......

 

[Transmetal]

I got an oil change today, they said it was full synthetic. This is my 1st time at this Nissan/Kia dealership. Does anybody happen to know the part numbers the dealer uses for their oil changes? It doesn't actually say synthetic on the print off they gave me but the service advisor assured me that it was. I feel like the total price was less then what I'm used to paying for synthetic oil changes for our Jeep.

 

[Blingen]

I got an oil change today, they said it was full synthetic. This is my 1st time at this Nissan/Kia dealership. Does anybody happen to know the part numbers the dealer uses for their oil changes? It doesn't actually say synthetic on the print off they gave me but the service advisor assured me that it was. I feel like the total price was less then what I'm used to paying for synthetic oil changes for our Jeep.
View attachment 53819

I think It depends on how they code it. That looks like a really good price. When I go to the kia dealership it cost me $80 for oil and filter.

 

[Transmetal]

I think It depends on how they code it. That looks like a really good price. When I go to the kia dealership it cost me $80 for oil and filter.

That's what I was expecting around 70, which is why I was wondering if it was full synthetic.

 

[Stan]

Please forgive my potential stupidity here but why 6,000 miles exactly? The BMW 3.0L oil service interval is 2y / 20,000 miles w/ many examples of engines over 200K+ going strong, a few over 500K miles.

I can understand a "catch" all for varying weather climates, short trip drivers and different usage but surely 10K / 1y is sufficient? As they near enough demand one gets a service from a main dealers over here, when I was doing 38K miles a year It'd be in for a service six or seven times.! Anyway, I'm just curious because it has put a fair few off the Stinger when discussing about it.

Last thing you wanna do is follow BMW or Audi and etc recommended oil intervals, especially those for Long Life periods, especially when it comes to a turbo charged, direct injection engine.
Best care you can do for your car is change engine oil earlier - 7.5k km or at least once per year. In heavy climates ( hot summer, cold winter ) it would be best to change oil 2 times. Full synthetic oil is a must, but genuine synthetic - group 4 ( PAO ) or higher ( Esters ), not French Motul sh.t or Mobil 1. In Europe only German law guarantees that when a label says fully synthetic, it is indeed full, and not Group 3 Hydrocrack crap. Considering cost for an oil change, this would be the last place to save money from.

 

[5tinger]

Please forgive my potential stupidity here but why 6,000 miles exactly? The BMW 3.0L oil service interval is 2y / 20,000 miles w/ many examples of engines over 200K+ going strong, a few over 500K miles.

I can understand a "catch" all for varying weather climates, short trip drivers and different usage but surely 10K / 1y is sufficient? As they near enough demand one gets a service from a main dealers over here, when I was doing 38K miles a year It'd be in for a service six or seven times.! Anyway, I'm just curious because it has put a fair few off the Stinger when discussing about it.

I don't care what BMW says, but 2yrs OCI is planned obscelence & a nifty marketing spin.
Pure & simple.

 

[Ohiocruiser]

For my stinger it is 3 oil changes every 10k miles. I am using mobil1. But will start using amsoil once my m1 stock is gone.

 

[Nozzleman123]

For my stinger it is 3 oil changes every 10k miles. I am using mobil1. But will start using amsoil once my m1 stock is gone.

That’s what I use , I have a 2020 gt1 change my oil every 5k miles and only use amsoil , do the oil service myself

 

[colnago1331]

That’s what I use , I have a 2020 gt1 change my oil every 5k miles and only use amsoil , do the oil service myself

I jut rolled over 1,000 miles and plan on doing my first oil change (but not filter). The next one will be at 5,000 miles (with filter), and then I'll change the oil every 5,000 thereafter. For no particular reason, I'll use Castrol Edge 5W-30, which is ACEA A5/B5.

 

[JSolo]

This seemed like a good thread as any to pose this question.

The owner's manual states one must warm up the engine, then shutdown, let it sit for 15 min then check oil level.

This seems asinine. In the old days one would check the level when cold and call it a day. I can understand the dipstick (not the one checking the oil ) may be calibrated for hot/expanded oil (what little expansion there is). Which is fine, so you fill it to 1/8" below the full mark when cold.

Am I missing something or is there a valid reason for going through the above routine to check?

 

[vipeboy2000]

our old e39's had a similar thing.. though not as long and didn't say to open the filler.. even our old suburban said the same to warm it up then wait several minutes before checking.. I do notice that our 4 cylinder cars like our subaru only says to wait if the engine was just stopped, nothing about needing to warm it up .. could just be that some engine oil systems take longer to drain/fill to give get the level on the dipstick to the correct location..

 

[rocket23]

ahhhhhhh common sense disguised as proper procedure ; A motor started to heat the oil and fill all the components used for lubricationalso is used for our turbo , oil from the turbo system must have time allotted to return to the oil pan . ........
(here's one that will keep you up at night) If heated oil drains better than cooler oil why wait the full 15 minutes?

 

[JSolo]

... With oil already in the pan, why must it be heated to circulate to begin with... ?

Click on attachment....

 

[vipeboy2000]

Must also stand on head and do a dance before checking ...

 

[rocket23]

... With oil already in the pan, why must it be heated to circulate to begin with... ?

Click on attachment....

Right?! I just drain it and refill ,cold in the driveway.......bad enough I don't have a roof for it!!!,lol

 

[vipeboy2000]

Right?! I just drain it and refill ,cold in the driveway.......bad enough I don't have a roof for it!!!,lol

In all reality it must be that some engines can drain more oil back in if sitting for a while that it would read too high but it would also read too low if the engine was just running lol so it needs to have the thermal expansion as well as just the right amount of oil drained back in lol

 

[rocket23]

''all reality'' left a long time ago....lol