The Kia Stinger Oil Thread

[rocket23]

Got The ramps today, sooooooo glad I bought them, makes the job so much more easier. Perfect height too.
What was difficult, didn’t have the right tools, had to borrow form a neighbor, was getting the oil filter off considering the placement of the steering module on RHD. Bought the right tools just now for myself, including an universal joint 1/2 inch ratchet adapter.

k&n makes a quality filter with a nut at the end..........(matches the one behind the wheel)

 

[Tanner Young]

Hi, first post n all that.

To try and contribute something different, if you're at all hard on your motor and want to keep it healthy for a long time, I would HIGHLY advise against M1. From personal experience and several ruined motors, it's water. I've used Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40 since break in, and it's the only oil that will ever go in this car.

It isn't "Kia recommended" because it's not ACEA A5. It's an A3/B4 oil so it's made for higher HS/HT and has a higher TBN than ACEA A5 oils, thus exceeding their strength/durability and cleansing ability in every way. This will minutely affect fuel economy, but it is a much, much stronger oil made for modern high HP/L motors. ACEA ratings don't necessarily get "better" the higher the number, they just have different applications. Anyway, if you beat on the motor at all I would encourage you to look into an A3/B4 rated oil over an A5 rated one. Modern engines have a LOT of moving parts and quality oil is the only way to protect them.

On another note, I have an old VW that didn't have a single leak (shocking, I know), started using M1 and the motor leaked like a sieve. Switched to Motul and I stg it's been bone dry ever since. Also picked up about 20% better fuel economy and now the TC slips lol. If it's good enough for Porsche race cars, it's good enough for my Kia hatchback

tl/dr: use good oil

 

[Tanner Young]

Oh, and that old VW takes 9.8 qts every change w a total oil capacity of 13 quarts. 6.5-7 isn't so bad guys lolol

 

[rocket23]

Oh, and that old VW takes 9.8 qts every change w a total oil capacity of 13 quarts. 6.5-7 isn't so bad guys lolol

IMO you could use the crappiest oil on the market and you will have zero problems as long as you change it regularly. As for the m1 if the car wasn’t “broken in” or at the least m1 used early in a engine’s life , I’ve heard of leaks before happening. But in m1’s defense no one beats on a engine more than a New England winter and I’ve had no issues in fact one “hemi” actually looked better under the valve covers after 1 change way back in the day.

 

[G-101775]

IMO you could use the crappiest oil on the market and you will haze zero problems as long as you change it regularly. As for the m1 if the car wasn’t “broken in” or at the least m1 used early in a engine’s life , I’ve heard of leaks before happening. But in m1’s defense no one beats on a engine more than a New England winter and I’ve had no issues in fact one “hemi” actually looked better under the valve covers after 1 change way back in the day.

I do agree that regular changes is absolutely paramount, but I wouldn't go putting dino oil in a McLaren, either.

Yes, M1 is better than most conventional oils, but in terms of synthetics, it's really very average with a gigantic marketing budget. The proof is out there, M1 is one of the worst across the board, whereas Motul, Liqui Moli, Schaeffers are consistently the best, no competition. That's not really what I'm on about, I'm more just informing people there may be a better option for what they, specifically want out of/to do with the car. Especially those modifying or leaning into the "sport" in sport sedan. if you just use it as a commuter car, 100% don't waste your time or money. I would still recommend Castrol over M1.

However, at $36/5l Motul vs $27-35 M1, I don't see where a a few bucks every oil change is worth catastrophic engine damage *if* the worst were to happen. My point isn't "use this because I do" it's "don't use that just because everyone else does". Figure out what works for you.

also just for credentials sake, I work on race cars and learned all of this from a man who's been racing and building cars for 40 years. After seeing actual side-by-side engine teardowns, my mind was made up. motors are priceyyyy

 

[rocket23]

Well it's too close to christmas to go on about oil(s)........fare thee well mate.......btw I haven't seen any of the oils you speak of.....not on the east coast anyways....anyone else???

 

[5tinger]

I wish i was able to purchase this oil.
Look at those specs

https://www.oil-club.ru/forum/topic...syn-0w-30-api-sn-acea-c2-05100-00171-svezhee/

 

[antonini311]

Everyone on here keeps talking about using 5W-30. But looking at the manual, that temp range goes well below where I live (Southern California). So it seems 10W-30 is better for me. But I have read 5W-30 is the best oil for the Stinger 3.3. Does it make that much difference? I don't know what came in the car from the dealer, but should I just stick with 5W-30 moving forward?

I have not had my first oil change yet, BTW. My car is sitting at 2,800 miles right now.

 

[AAAAdrian]

I went to KIA dealer today for my first oil change and paid $30 extra for them to use full synthetic oil. What they put into my car is "TOTAL0W20APISN" and part number is "T0020 QRT12A". I don't mind 0W-20 viscosity because I live in NJ and plan to drive to Canada soon.

Is this oil good? I can't find the exact specification of this oil online using part number but API-SN seems to be a higher standard than API-SM, and API-SN is equivalent to ILSAC GF-5 according the oilspecifications.org

 

[moinmoin]

If you go through the documentation that came with your car, you'll find that TOTAL is the brand that KIA is promoting and recommending, It's KIA's "house brand". No worries.

 

[SteveCo]

Everyone on here keeps talking about using 5W-30. But looking at the manual, that temp range goes well below where I live (Southern California). So it seems 10W-30 is better for me. But I have read 5W-30 is the best oil for the Stinger 3.3. Does it make that much difference? I don't know what came in the car from the dealer, but should I just stick with 5W-30 moving forward?

I have not had my first oil change yet, BTW. My car is sitting at 2,800 miles right now.

Stay with the 5W-30 recommended in the manual, and don't bother thinking about it any further. The recommendation was made by the engineers and company who designed and warranty the engine. Despite all the armchair experts who are convinced they have the 'right' answer, nobody else can possibly know all the parameters and considerations (which are many) that went into that specification. If there was a benefit to using a different or split oil/viscosity in different climates, that would be shown in the manual - it's in their best interests.

Change the oil according to KIA's recommendations, and go enjoy the car.

 

[rocket23]

I went to KIA dealer today for my first oil change and paid $30 extra for them to use full synthetic oil. What they put into my car is "TOTAL0W20APISN" and part number is "T0020 QRT12A". I don't mind 0W-20 viscosity because I live in NJ and plan to drive to Canada soon.

Is this oil good? I can't find the exact specification of this oil online using part number but API-SN seems to be a higher standard than API-SM, and API-SN is equivalent to ILSAC GF-5 according the oilspecifications.org

grabbed 5 cases of 0w -20 at bj's m1 brand........20 bucks for 6 quarts......winter seems colder these days

 

[asciidic]

My Stinger is leased so the Mobil 1 5w30 the dealership puts in (for free twice a year!) is fine with me. They break it, they bought it. But on my Optima SX with 141k mostly city miles, I always used Amsoil and recently switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30. With all the conflicting opinions floating around Amsoil just seemed like the safest bet. But the Project Farm video convinced me the Pennzoil is almost as good for half the cost. Almost as good is good enough for my backup car. I'm more inclined to go by real data rather than "this is what muh daddy swears by" testimonials.

 

[Toddasaurus]

My Stinger is leased so the Mobil 1 5w30 the dealership puts in (for free twice a year!) is fine with me. They break it, they bought it. But on my Optima SX with 141k mostly city miles, I always used Amsoil and recently switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30. With all the conflicting opinions floating around Amsoil just seemed like the safest bet. But the Project Farm video convinced me the Pennzoil is almost as good for half the cost. Almost as good is good enough for my backup car. I'm more inclined to go by real data rather than "this is what muh daddy swears by" testimonials.

That's pretty dang nice your dealership uses that oil. My Genesis dealership uses Ford Motorcraft 5w-30 semi/blend, it's garbage and doesn't meet our ACEA recommendations. I do my own oil changes with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 as well on my G70 instead now. Plus my dealer overtorqued the drain plug and cross threaded the oil filter housing the one time I let them "service" my car for free, so I can't trust them anyway.

Project farm has nice tests and info. While it may not be perfect, he does a really good job and tries to keep his testing methods sound, and has very logical explanations and no bias. He is a cool guy.

 

[5tinger]

Got The ramps today, sooooooo glad I bought them, makes the job so much more easier. Perfect height too.
What was difficult, didn’t have the right tools, had to borrow form a neighbor, was getting the oil filter off considering the placement of the steering module on RHD. Bought the right tools just now for myself, including an universal joint 1/2 inch ratchet adapter.

What tools were required to get the filter out?
Another question - does oil spill on steering module when removing the filter?

 

[Sime]

What tools were required to get the filter out?
Another question - does oil spill on steering module when removing the filter?

I needed to get extenders for the ratchet, the steering module is in the way.
And yes, the steering module will get oil all over it. I wrapped mine in foil.

 

[5tinger]

I needed to get extenders for the ratchet, the steering module is in the way.
And yes, the steering module will get oil all over it. I wrapped mine in foil.

Much better than having dealer do it. Seeing how they treat econoboxes and Stinger the same.
I would not take it to dealer to have oil change. Not to mention they'll use the cheapest bulk oil they can find.

 

[peterpan223]

Hey guys, so I just got my first oil change from the dealership as 1 time complementary service. I just saw the paperwork and it states that the oil used was 5W20 synthetic blend.
I know the manual and the oil cap recommended 5W30
Should I have them change it out to 5W30?

I'm at 3,500 miles and in Southern California.

Thanks

 

[5tinger]

Hey guys, so I just got my first oil change from the dealership as 1 time complementary service. I just saw the paperwork and it states that the oil used was 5W20 synthetic blend.
I know the manual and the oil cap recommended 5W30
Should I have them change it out to 5W30?

I'm at 3,500 miles and in Southern California.

Thanks

There's good reason why Kia does not allow a viscosity lower than 30weight for the stinger or any of their boosted cars for that matter.
Due to shearing of oil - especially on a Twin turbocharged V6.
That 20wt oil will shear to dangerously low levels - particularly if driven hard in warm temperatures.

Perhaps they filled with correct oil - but paperwork did not reflect rhis?

 

[eflyguy]

the oil used was 5W20 synthetic blend.

I would be asking for a letter from the dealer explaining why they used an oil grade that is not recommended by the manufacturer. Should cover your butt in case of future issues.