3.3TT Open Source Intake Mod

I have the bottom in on both sides. It is definitely snug once the strut brace is bolted back in. It is literally the only positioning it would fit. I posted the pic above
How did you get it on? I tried and it was not going back in with the strut brace fitted.
 
I loosened the bottom portion of the stock intake as well and turned it so you can position everything differently. I rotated them so the filters fit farther down into the box. I circled on your picture what i loosened and then turned. Take a look at my picture a few posted back, you can see how they are angled differently
 

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you can see how mine is angled more towards the front of the car, yours is pretty much 90* You can tell that the attached hose is less kinked as well because its extended farther (dont pay attention to the red circle in this pic lol not what we are looking at)
 

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you can see how mine is angled more towards the front of the car, yours is pretty much 90* You can tell that the attached hose is less kinked as well because its extended farther (dont pay attention to the red circle in this pic lol not what we are looking at)
You have a Pic with the strut on?
 
W
 

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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I have a little concern about the heat in the engine bay. it's going to suck up lots of hot air without a heat shield.
 
Maybe there is not enough room but instead of a small cone filter has anyone tried an oval? It seems like there may be room for a little wider air filter to try and get more surface area.
 
Just read the whole thread. Thanks to the guys posting pics and instructions. Ordering the spectre filters and 90 deg bends and am thinking I want to go the same route as pnasty and keep the bottom stock airbox.
 
Why do so many aim the filters toward the rear and more heat, as opposed to toward the front and incoming air? Is it because they fit better pointing backward?
 
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Why do so many aim the filters toward the rear and more heat, as opposed to toward the front and incoming air? Is it because they fit better pointing backward?

The problem is the stock airbox will not let it fit facing foward, facing it to the rear is a perfect fit.
 
Why do so many aim the filters toward the rear and more heat, as opposed to toward the front and incoming air? Is it because they fit better pointing backward?
I thought the same thing and after trying the elbows I decided to go with straight pipes instead to keep the filters away from the hot turbos and as close to the front OEM air inlets as possible.
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Then I just added ThermoTec heat shielding to make a soft wall barrier to block almost all the hot air from the filters. Doesn’t look as pretty as others but works amazing and keep the air surrounding the filters nice and cool.:thumbup:
 
Personally I wouldn't use a brand like that, that's something you'd put on a Honda Civic for bling not Performance I would just spend the extra money on a K&N it's going to flow properly and zero maintenance for 50,000 miles and lifetime warranty. My 2 cents..
 
Check diy thread, spectre filters will work great at a fraction of the cost. I still have yet to see one dyno where the revised intake has made any significant difference. Everyone says the car will adapt but I want to see a dyno show me an intake change and a real world gain more that a handful. The particle filtering is worse and the air is drawn from a hot engine bay. The factory pulls all the air from the outside, filters better as well.
 
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If that's the case then I would just change out the stock filters for k&n filters that drop in place they will flow way better than the stock filters and filter way better without reducing flow. I'm bias to these but have done a lot of testing I worked at K&n for a year in the r&D department saw the differences in basic drop-in filters and typhoon kits. The stock filters are cheap and very restrictive, and they start to reduce flow within around 5000 miles... In the long run you'll actually save money buying a K&N drop-in filters then you would replacing all of those crappy OEM filters and of course increase usable horsepower.
 
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Check diy thread, spectre filters will work great at a fraction of the cost. I still have yet to see one dyno where the revised intake has made any significant difference. Everyone says the car will adapt but I want to see a dyno show me an intake change and a real world gain more that a handful. The particle filtering is worse and the air is drawn from a hot engine bay. The factory pulls all the air from the outside, filters better as well.
I’m not sure if I’m following you correctly. Are you saying that intakes are great or they don’t add any power?

If the latter here’s a few dynos showing about 15-25whp across the whole rpm range and some show even better gains near redline. Torks gained 44whp at 6100rpm after adding intakes.
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There also many people showing about 0.2sec drops on 0-60 & 1/4m times so there is no doubt that open air high flow filters make a big difference.:thumbup:
 
If you relieve restrictions on your intake you're going to gain horsepower/tq. no matter what, some people say just putting in drop in filters replacing the OEM filters is the best way to gain horsepower through the stock intake which directs cold air over the filter. This is not accurate. The airbox itself and filter surface are restrictive even with no filter in place. So removing the air boxes and putting on a filter kit with a heat shield will be hands down better then the stock air boxes. And I've measured the air inside the engine compartment while the car is moving and it's around 70- 90° nothing that is going to drop horsepower vs. Airflow.
 
You only make more power if, ‘if’ you need more air. The dynos provided are vendor based. I want to see a car run on map 1 jb4....change the filter set up and run again 15 minutes later and make power. There have been no private dyno sessions posted here in the last 6 months that I’ve read where we see the curve climb at all. Lately a newer member actually showed a slight loss. Horsepower factory did a comparison and gained only 3hp....cat back was 10.


the stock boxes are sealed and are litterally cold air intakes, the open element setups are NOT cold air set ups and I guess I just want to see the INDEPENDENT proof that a bolt on car needs the added air and I’m not paying just to hear woosh noise.
 
Another thought would be that anytime a car made boost of say 15 psi, adding a modified intake wouldn’t t he car then make more boost at the same rpm and conditions? If you aren’t making more boost with other filters then I would have to assume you don’t need more air....boost is compressed air. Am I getting this wrong?
 
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