Big Ern
Member
Sure, are there any areas you wanted me to focus on?
Can u confirm what wires he found to use. Thanks much appreciatedFriend of mine, the best auto electrician which I know, installed those scuff plates without any drilling just using holes left after stock plates. Also he was able to find wires and connect each scuff plate separately to proper door lock contact so every scuff plate lights on only when corresponding door is opened. So it was installed PERFECTLY and all wires completely HIDDEN, no drilling was required and "SMART ON" for every scuff plate, not the puddle light connection used. Will attach set of photos and video later when I have time for that.
Friend of mine, the best auto electrician which I know, installed those scuff plates without any drilling just using holes left after stock plates. Also he was able to find wires and connect each scuff plate separately to proper door lock contact so every scuff plate lights on only when corresponding door is opened. So it was installed PERFECTLY and all wires completely HIDDEN, no drilling was required and "SMART ON" for every scuff plate, not the puddle light connection used. Will attach set of photos and video later when I have time for that.
Idk what the problem is. I thought that is what a forum was for...I do know there are diy videos on here and the scuff plate is one. I am new too!I bought a set of LED scuff plates for my Stinger GT2. Can anyone help with a wiring diagram inside the door trim? Which two wires should I splice to have the LEDs turn on when the door opens? If there's a link to a installation video, even better! All I could find were plug-n-play honda installations...
TIA!
Would love to see a video.
Do you know where he tapped the power from? You say door lock contact.
Did he have to remove door panels? Did he tap in where the wires go from the door to the body? Or from within the car?
Thanks!
Ok, photos are there https://www.drive2.ru/l/513998597314838886/ You can use Google translate if interestedText there is mostly the same as I described above.
Ok, photos are there https://www.drive2.ru/l/513998597314838886/ You can use Google translate if interestedText there is mostly the same as I described above.
Yes, he knew what he was doing. I thought that it's hard to remove too, but it appeared easier than I thought.Is that it, 3 spots to unscrew to take the whole door panel off?
Heads up for those doing the scuff plate install, I tapped the wires from the passenger foot well light and to be sure I checked with a multimeter and it only pulls 7v, which is one issue and the second is that the yellow+red stripe wire actually was my negative while the brown+black was the positive so be wary when doing your wiring
Sorry for the late reply. Yes it did light up after I realised that the polarity was the wrong way. Using a multimeter I could confirm that it was the correct way and it didn't light so i turned on the car, locked and then unlocked and it turned on. Maybe wasn't enough voltage?Did it still light up with 7v? I have ran into the same thing yesterday and i couldnt ever get them to light. Where did you wire yours from?
I have the exact same issue....low voltage at both passenger and drivers side footwell lights. I'm able to get the small back seat LEDs to light but the front larger ones aren't getting enough juice. Far cry from the 12V required.
Anyone else been able to work around this problem? Are there any other of the interior lights that run 12V?
Although BobR's install is by far the best without knowing what each wire is the ground I don't feel comfortable with this option.
Thanks!