LED scuff plates

[J North]

Thanks J North!
I figure that is the only option for me as well. Connect all the positives together to an empty fuse in the box. Then I'm thinking of connecting the grounds of each side together so if you open the front doors, both the front and back light up.....Or did you connect to the individual (4) grounds?

From the pics it looks like a LR is pink, RR blue, LF blue but which ground is RF? If you had any more specifics of the wire colors that would be amazing! Saves a lot of time checking voltages

thanks again!

I went out and bought about 50 feet of 18 gauge (Black) and (Red) wire. I did two positive wires (Red) out of the fuse box. One out and down to the drivers side LED plate and the other under the dash to the passenger side LED plate. DO NOT CONNECT TO THE FUSE BOX UNTILL ALL WIRING IS DONE!!
I removed the plastic on the kick panels on both sides and there were screws that were being used for grounds (black) so I tapped into that.
I didnt do the rear LED's but if you did, then I would run a (Red) wire from the drivers side and passenger side back doors up to the front door and connect into your (Red) cables from the dash. Then run a (Black) cable from the drivers and passenger side back doors up to the front kick panels where you connected your (black) cables.
The rest is easy:
Connect your (Red) wires from the LED's to your (Red) wires from the dash and connect together.
Then connect your (black) wires from the LED's to your (Black) wires from the grounded screws and your done.
Now you can plug your wires into the fuse box. Shut all doors and then when you open each door they all should work.

Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks!

 

[ryan1stinger]

I finally went direct into the fuse box for power. Then found a ground to run to both sides as well. This worked perfectly! Let me know if you need anymore information. Good Luck.

I have the moving Stinger LED door scuff plate lights from eBay. Initially I went into the fuse box for positive using add-a-circuit fuse tap connected to door lamp and then attached all negative wires to a ground screw near the door opening. They were brightly lit and very smooth with the transition and then after a few weeks I realized something quite interesting. They lit up each time I opened the door, upon opening the door after driving they would not light up until I locked and unlocked the doors. I removed the wiring for one plate and connected it to a 9v battery and what I found is that the lights illuminate for about 5 mins 10 seconds and then shut off. There must be some internal timer causing these to shut off. My point here is that when connecting to the door lamp fuse, when you close the door the lights do not turn off, because there remains power in the fuse. Confirmed this by taking a scuff plate light that was not installed in the car. After 5 mins and 10 seconds the light shuts off. I couldn't think of another fuse to use, therefore I went to the footwell lights, and found the same behavior as another user reported that the front lights don't light up correctly. Not enough voltage. I want the lights to light up and shut off with a corresponding door opening/closing. What works for you and did you confirm that the lights turn off when the door is closed? Did you also verify that the lights illuminate every time the door is opened?

I saw another post where an electrician went into the door panel. Clicked on the site, but received a 404 error. Please help as I've spent about 15 hours on this and it's quite frustrating. Thank you!

 

[ryan1stinger]

Is anyone consistently getting their led stinger scuff plates from eBay to light up every time they open the door? Mine are hit or miss and I’ve tried wiring them to the fuse box, footwell and now dome light. Up until now I was thinking there was an issue with how I wired them but more and more I’m thinking they are defective. Has anyone else witnessed that they illuminate for about 5 mins and then go off even when connected to 9 volt battery so I know they have power. I was thinking there was an internal timer, however the more I think about it, this could be a defect and not by design. Please share your observations.

When I lock and unlock the door they will consistently illuminate, however when I open the door without locking they will illuminate with the dome light. No way to confirm they go out when the dome light goes out as I don’t have a visual on the lights with the door closed. I reopen the door several minutes later and sometimes they come on and other times they do not.

 

[Bobr]

Has anyone else witnessed that they illuminate for about 5 mins and then go off even when connected to 9 volt battery so I know they have power.

Didn't you think that they made it intentionally to save LEDs and also to prevent possible overheating and possible bad wiring and accidental battery drain because of that? Of course they made it intentionally and that's very SMART that they actually take care about that! Mine behave in same manner, that's not a defect. You may to see defects in their mirror reflection after a year btw, because water finds a way inside and some cracks will appear there or I'm just unlucky or just harsh Russian winters (but this winter was warmest, which is not good as well, mostly for roads durability... lyrics, sorry).

Also I found that footwell lights have not enough power to power these scuff plates unfortunately (I didn't measure voltage, sorry) and you will see how it strobing and working not so smooth (you may think that's normal, because you possibly didn't see how it ACTUALLY should behave). You can see the same on Youtube videos as well (initially I thought some plates are defect, but issue really in power). Connect to proper 12V and you will SEE how it should actually work -- almost smooth, without any strobing.

You can open that Russian article you seen 404 for previously, should work now I think. But I want to WARN you: we wired it to micro switches in doors, it worked perfectly, light up when door was opening up and had enough power with smooth lights animation. BUT then after almost a year I accidentally found that front passenger door stopped to show open state on driver's screen and scuff late seemed dead, after 2 months same happened with driver's door. Locks themselves worked, but not indication of open door and steering wheel stopped to lift and I required to switch off headlights manually -- pretty annoying. I uninstalled scuff plates and replaced doors' locks by warranty (tricky bastard, I know %). And now installed it back and more safely connected it to footwell lights, BUT when we started to install it, we found that scuff plates don't light up and animate so smoothly as before and had some strobing behaviour That's because of low power imho. Didn't try to install it differently yet, maybe will dig into it more. Now I have steppy animation on front and strobing with no slide animation on back doors So, that's my story.

 

[ryan1stinger]

Didn't you think that they made it intentionally to save LEDs and also to prevent possible overheating and possible bad wiring and accidental battery drain because of that? Of course they made it intentionally and that's very SMART that they actually take care about that! Mine behave in same manner, that's not a defect. You may to see defects in their mirror reflection after a year btw, because water finds a way inside and some cracks will appear there or I'm just unlucky or just harsh Russian winters (but this winter was warmest, which is not good as well, mostly for roads durability... lyrics, sorry).

Also I found that footwell lights have not enough power to power these scuff plates unfortunately (I didn't measure voltage, sorry) and you will see how it strobing and working not so smooth (you may think that's normal, because you possibly didn't see how it ACTUALLY should behave). You can see the same on Youtube videos as well (initially I thought some plates are defect, but issue really in power). Connect to proper 12V and you will SEE how it should actually work -- almost smooth, without any strobing.

You can open that Russian article you seen 404 for previously, should work now I think. But I want to WARN you: we wired it to micro switches in doors, it worked perfectly, light up when door was opening up and had enough power with smooth lights animation. BUT then after almost a year I accidentally found that front passenger door stopped to show open state on driver's screen and scuff late seemed dead, after 2 months same happened with driver's door. Locks themselves worked, but not indication of open door and steering wheel stopped to lift and I required to switch off headlights manually -- pretty annoying. I uninstalled scuff plates and replaced doors' locks by warranty (tricky bastard, I know %). And now installed it back and more safely connected it to footwell lights, BUT when we started to install it, we found that scuff plates don't light up and animate so smoothly as before and had some strobing behaviour That's because of low power imho. Didn't try to install it differently yet, maybe will dig into it more. Now I have steppy animation on front and strobing with no slide animation on back doors So, that's my story.

It makes sense the lights would shut off, but wanted confirmation someone else was seeing the same behavior. Thanks.

I tapped into the ground (yellow #10) and positive wire (red #32) for the overhead lamp in the “A” pillar wiring harness on the driver side and lights are working as expected.

 

[ryan1stinger]

Reusing this document. Credit to @Canoli and @Killa200

Refer to pg 15

https://stingerforum.org/attachments/puddlecolor-pdf.4779/

 

[Bobr]

@ryan1stinger so you connected to "overhead lamp" not footwell light? That's what we wanted to try next. Ok, good to know. Thanks!

 

[ryan1stinger]

@ryan1stinger so you connected to "overhead lamp" not footwell light? That's what we wanted to try next. Ok, good to know. Thanks!

footwell light doesn’t have enough power to correctly illuminate the lights, therefore I tapped into the “room lamp” per the doc.

fyi, using the t-connectors as mentioned in the doc doesn’t cut through the very small yellow wire. I ended up severing both the yellow and red and then had to splice another wire to each in order to add length. After doing this I ran into a Lane Departure Warning system malfunction that my local mechanic believes is just coincidence from his diagnosis and most likely related to the fact that I replaced my windshield a month ago and need the system calibrated. Scheduling an appointment with the Kia dealership and will let you know what comes form it.

 

[ryan1stinger]

Update from my last thread. The lane departure system warning had nothing to do with me tapping into the wires in the A pillar harness, but instead was due to a malfunction of the switch for the lane departure system that KIA replaced under warranty. All is good now.

 

[General_Vodka]

Something something doesn't turn off when door closes something something. Streamable Video mic drop

 

[washere]

I did this install this weekend, and I thought I would contribute a few comments:
#1. I think the 10/32 wiring from the puddle lights is slightly different in a 22. If you look at it the way the diagram shows, the red 32 is actually in the opposite corner. And oddly if you use that to guide you, you will end up with a 10 that is yellow. THIS ISN'T the right one! It is the other yellow (see picture). One other thing I noticed is that you MUST use the #10 for ground. The door open "switch" is actually a ground. So the +12 is constant hot, and the ground is what turns on and off. I forgot this is common in cars so they don't have to run 2 wires for "door open".
#2. I didn't want to show any wires so I did the cable underneath. I have included a few pics of how I did it. I used cable fishing string and a single hole on the inside of the car to fish it to. I used a network cable fish tape, and some pull string to do it. The backs were a bit more complicated since the existing center hole under the factory scuff plates does not reach into the car. But the other two do. So I just fished it from the middle to the back, and then from the back into the car.
#3. You will need one tether clip when you remove the A pilar trim. There is one clip that is single-use (has to do with the airbag that is in there). It was about $3. No big deal.
#3. I worry that the back ones are not going to stay on properly since the area is not flat. The 3m tape is came with is already coming off in small sections. Maybe it will stay like that, or maybe it will be a problem. Worst case, I guess I will just use stronger tape, or glue or something. I shouldn't have to take the car apart to do it.

 

[ryan1stinger]

unfortunately 3M doesn’t cut it. Now the back scuff plates are lifting. Anyone find something other than glue that works permanently