Group Buy - ISG (Idle Stop and Go)/Auto Hold, Proximity Lock/Unlock, Heat/Cool setting memory module

[Mesmer]

Trying to get one thing sorted around the AVM camera module: this module basically goes in parallel on the CAN BUS of the LKAS? Or is it more like in the middle (cables are cut from factory system, go in the aftermarket module and from there back to the car system).

Wondering if plugs like the original ones can be found in order to make some custom tap harness, so install/removal can be more plug and play.

 

[MrSmoofy]

Trying to get one thing sorted around the AVM camera module: this module basically goes in parallel on the CAN BUS of the LKAS? Or is it more like in the middle (cables are cut from factory system, go in the aftermarket module and from there back to the car system).

Wondering if plugs like the original ones can be found in order to make some custom tap harness, so install/removal can be more plug and play.

I would like to find the same or even make them so I don't have to cut wires. If we can find diagrams of the harness I'm sure I could figure it out and have the tools to make them. Even if it cost me $100+ to make it I'd rather spend that then cut a factory wire

 

[Mesmer]

Think i found the connector, sadly cannot post links account is too new.
You can find it on the KET company, model 020 12F ASSY (C) (Wire to Wire automotive 12 pin connector)

 

[Swap_File]

LKAS requires you to cut the CAN bus wires, AVM module piggy backs on them. To make the install easier, I just piggybacked the AVM onto the LKAS module, and then wired in the LKAS. The connector is easy enough to find datasheets for, but no one actually sells them in small quantities, and its rather non-standard so there are no real substitutions.

Maybe a Kia at a junkyard could be ripped apart for connectors? Anyone know long has Kia been using KET connectors?

Carefully cutting and soldering the CAN bus is likely the best, then just scrape the insulation off the power wires and piggy back solder it without cutting.

 

[MrSmoofy]

LKAS requires you to cut the CAN bus wires, AVM module piggy backs on them. To make the install easier, I just piggybacked the AVM onto the LKAS module, and then wired in the LKAS. The connector is easy enough to find datasheets for, but no one actually sells them in small quantities, and its rather non-standard so there are no real substitutions.

Maybe a Kia at a junkyard could be ripped apart for connectors? Anyone know long has Kia been using KET connectors?

Carefully cutting and soldering the CAN bus is likely the best, then just scrape the insulation off the power wires and piggy back solder it without cutting.

Still would rather spend the money on connectors and wire it up that way instead of trying to solder wires under the dashboard, I'm not a little guy so I'd have a probably bending/contorting to do that I'm also not young and flexible anymore.

Since I've not seen how it connects, in my head I envision a male and female connector that passes all the wires through except for the ones you need to cut those would be loose to wire to the module. also any power and ground that is needed could be spliced between the to connectors and you'd never had to splice or cut any of the factory wiring.

 

[Swap_File]

Still would rather spend the money on connectors and wire it up that way instead of trying to solder wires under the dashboard, I'm not a little guy so I'd have a probably bending/contorting to do that I'm also not young and flexible anymore.

Since I've not seen how it connects, in my head I envision a male and female connector that passes all the wires through except for the ones you need to cut those would be loose to wire to the module. also any power and ground that is needed could be spliced between the to connectors and you'd never had to splice or cut any of the factory wiring.

I posted pictures a few pages back, but I can post them again. The LKAS and AVM modules go up near the mirror, there are zero tools needed to get to the area, and its super easy to work on since you can just lay a towel over the dash and reach up and solder the wires. I think using plugs would actually make it harder to install since they take up a lot more space, and it is a little snug.

 

[Double D]

How did I miss this one? I need to pay better attention

 

[MrSmoofy]

I posted pictures a few pages back, but I can post them again. The LKAS and AVM modules go up near the mirror, there are zero tools needed to get to the area, and its super easy to work on since you can just lay a towel over the dash and reach up and solder the wires. I think using plugs would actually make it harder to install since they take up a lot more space, and it is a little snug.

Ooops I am getting them confused with ones that go under the dash LOL but either way I would rather use connectors then splice/cut wires.

I need to find some time to get this done they are still sitting in the packaging they were shipped in because I've had zero time to get the tools that I need to take the car apart and actually work on it.

 

[Gtecko]

I posted pictures a few pages back, but I can post them again. The LKAS and AVM modules go up near the mirror, there are zero tools needed to get to the area, and its super easy to work on since you can just lay a towel over the dash and reach up and solder the wires. I think using plugs would actually make it harder to install since they take up a lot more space, and it is a little snug.

that seems pretty straight forward as an install with the way you piggyback them on

 

[Mesmer]

The problem with the soldering method is that if you have any warranty issue and they need to check that part, they would see the soldering and deny any warranty. Also the same in case you crack the windshield i imagine.


BTW, i understand from this post that behind the passenger fuse box, there is a plug where all the CAN BUSes are collected. This would mean that if those cables are spliced into, you could have a small add-on box and put all the modules there:

://community.autopi.io /t/ what-to-do-if-can-recorder-doesnt-return-anything/761/10

L.E. think i found on aliexpress the right connectors for the LKAS module. Sadly the forum still isn't letting me post links

Also, if you're willing to sped the money, comma ai makes a fitting harness for 100$. For us i think it's the hyundai type C one.

 

[MrSmoofy]

The problem with the soldering method is that if you have any warranty issue and they need to check that part, they would see the soldering and deny any warranty. Also the same in case you crack the windshield i imagine.

Another reason I would like to figure out using connectors and avoid taping/cutting/soldering

 

[Mesmer]

I got some good news (i hope). Looks like on the later models Kia gave up on the secure gateway OBD thing and some CANbuses are exposed on the OBD port:




This is from a 2020 Kia Sportage and C-CAN is available. What this means is that AVM module for example should be ok to connect here.
I have one on the way and also ordered a cheap OBD cable which i'll use to connect the module.

 

[Swap_File]

Has anyone managed to find a full schematic (preferably color) of the Stinger's wiring? None of the manuals I have seen include it.

 

[Mesmer]

Sadly i don't think it even exists, even the service manual has isolated schematics and some sort of legend that helps you navigate them.

I just received my modules today and i have some good news: the AVM module can be connected directly to the OBD port, at least on my car (2020 kia sportage). Though technically any Kia with the C-BUS on the OBD should work.

Now i need to make some nicer wiring and 3D print some enclosure.

 

[spas]

Hey Guys,

Wonder if any can help.

I purchased both the ISG and the Proximity modules for my 2020 Hyundai Palisade. Of course, neither came with install instructions. After several emails Shark racing sent me the install instructions.

The ISG module works perfectly. However, the proximity module only locks the car. When I approach the car, the approach lighting turns on and nothing else happens? I reached out to Shark racing a couple of times and they have not responded. I don't know if I have a defective module or of there is something incorrect with the wiring?

I know this is a stinger forum, but has anyone had any similar issues with the proximity door module and have figured out what the issue was?

I know this is a long shot -but thanks in advance....

Steve

 

[Gtecko]

Hey Guys,

Wonder if any can help.

I purchased both the ISG (Idle Stop and Go) and the Proximity modules for my 2020 Hyundai Palisade. Of course, neither came with install instructions. After several emails Shark racing sent me the install instructions.

The ISG (Idle Stop and Go) module works perfectly. However, the proximity module only locks the car. When I approach the car, the approach lighting turns on and nothing else happens? I reached out to Shark racing a couple of times and they have not responded. I don't know if I have a defective module or of there is something incorrect with the wiring?

I know this is a stinger forum, but has anyone had any similar issues with the proximity door module and have figured out what the issue was?

I know this is a long shot -but thanks in advance....

Steve

I cant help you but been lurking this thread for a while ... you are in Canada as well, how long did it take for you to get the module and did you email them to ask for a bundle pricing ? I would be interested in two modules as well.

 

[spas]

I cant help you but been lurking this thread for a while ... you are in Canada as well, how long did it take for you to get the module and did you email them to ask for a bundle pricing ? I would be interested in two modules as well.

Unfortunately I did not get any discounts paid full price for both modules.

In terms of shipping, once they shipped it - it took about a week, he shipped with UPS and it arrived in under a week.

 

[Swap_File]

The ISG (Idle Stop and Go) module works perfectly. However, the proximity module only locks the car. When I approach the car, the approach lighting turns on and nothing else happens? I reached out to Shark racing a couple of times and they have not responded. I don't know if I have a defective module or of there is something incorrect with the wiring?

Sounds like the unit is wired in correctly, it's all canbus, so if it was wired wrong it wouldn't lock or unlock the car at all.

Here is the untranslated manual:

Group Buy - ISG (Idle Stop and Go)/Auto Hold, Proximity Lock/Unlock, Heat/Cool setting memory module

That Smart ISG & Hold module looks like it could be a pain to install, does anyone know how to get to those extra wires? Looks like it involves fishing some wires to the pedals from the center console, and taking apart stuff around the steering wheel. If anyone wants to try it, I'm sure shark...

stingerforum.org

Worst case, there are only 4 combinations the switches can be set to, maybe try them all? If none of them work I'd assume the wrong module was sent.

 

[spas]

Sounds like the unit is wired in correctly, it's all canbus, so if it was wired wrong it wouldn't lock or unlock the car at all.

Worst case, there are only 4 combinations the switches can be set to, maybe try them all? If none of them work I'd assume the wrong module was sent.

Thanks for the reply.

I just heard back from Shark racing - apparently this module requires power folding mirrors. Unfortunately the North American version of the Palisade (Canada and USA) does come with power folding mirrors so it is not compatible.

I asked if they could use the approach lighting circuit and they said no.

So I will be returning it.

Too bad as it would have been a great feature. The auto locking works flawlessly it just does not unlock.

 

[Gtecko]

Unfortunately I did not get any discounts paid full price for both modules.

In terms of shipping, once they shipped it - it took about a week, he shipped with UPS and it arrived in under a week.

where did it come from ?