Custom JUN BL EVC

After adding the cat, no drone with the valves closed. Valves open its really loud with drone at the lower RPMs. I spend 98% of the time with the valve closed.

The HJS cats made a huge difference in the sound, makes it sound slightly more exotic.

Performance very satisfied.
Thanks! I will try to do the same but thats gonna be tricky because I live in Korea. :D
 
If I understand what you explain in your first post the piping diameter on their dual exhaust should look like this, right?

20191111_103838.webp

But I don't see the 60.5mm pipe being reduced to a smaller pipe after the Y split. Are you sure the open side is 54mm?
 
Finally the car sounds nice and drivable. I would say 90% of the rasp is gone with the HFCs. No noticable power loss, infact i ran faster on Map 2 then I ever did before.

Also for anybody thinking of installing catless primaries, I installed HJS catted adapters for the O2 sensor, you can see the cat inside the fitting. you will need the 45degree ones part #999190. I have yet to get the CEL and I have put atleast 1k miles on them.


If you RWD guys only knew how easy you had it in terms of room to access the primary DP's and turbos. With AWD you have that huge ass front differential, a bigger subframe, and the axles - all of which are perfectly in the way to make accessing the turbos and primaries a f*cking nightmare.

Also, since you posted that, Lap3 now makes primary DP's w/HFC's, and they're beautifully made.

IMG_20190823_083004.webp
 
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If I understand what you explain in your first post the piping diameter on their dual exhaust should look like this, right?

View attachment 33813

But I don't see the 60.5mm pipe being reduced to a smaller pipe after the Y split. Are you sure the open side is 54mm?

The main pipe is 60.5mm all the way to the small muffler, the exit from the small muffler is 54mm
 
If you RWD guys only knew how easy you had it in terms of room to access the primary DP's and turbos. With AWD you have that huge ass front differential, a bigger subframe, and the axles - all of which are perfectly in the way to make accessing the turbos and primaries a f*cking nightmare.

Also, since you posted that, Lap3 now makes primary DP's w/HFC's, and they're beautifully made.

View attachment 33814

Very nice, do they mention what brand and Cell (CPSI) cats they use?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Very nice, do they mention what brand and Cell (CPSI) cats they use?

Yeah, they use a Magnaflow metallic substrate high flow cat. They told me the substrate has been holding up well for everyone who has one so far. I believe it's a 200 cell.
 
The main pipe is 60.5mm all the way to the small muffler, the exit from the small muffler is 54mm
So is this correct?

20191111_192259.webp
:)
 
Also, since you posted that, Lap3 now makes primary DP's w/HFC's, and they're beautifully made.

View attachment 33814
Few people know it but Lap3 is not manufacturing these primary downpipes, there is a large manufacturer in Korea and Lap3 only resells them, as a bunch of other shops do here.
 
Few people know it but Lap3 is not manufacturing these primary downpipes, there is a large manufacturer in Korea and Lap3 only resells them, as a bunch of other shops do here.

Does the manufacturer sell them direct too?
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Does the manufacturer sell them direct too?
I heard they don't, because its illegal.
Most shops here also will refuse to do primary downpipes if they don't know you.
 
@STINGER How much did JunBL ask you for your custom exhaust? If you cant say in public, you can send me a PM.
 
@STINGER How much did JunBL ask you for your custom exhaust? If you cant say in public, you can send me a PM.

$200 more than the normal price, they said they didn't have the rig to make the exhaust with the dia I wanted so they had to make one just for me, plus they had to use bigger valves.
 
Some pics I don't think I posted before.
 

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Great looking.
They quoted me 2130 usd which is apparently very similar to what you paid, but here the EVC catback costs only 1360 usd here, so thats a huge bump in price. :(
Second hand they can often be found for 700 usd so I am considering to get a used one, get 60.5mm valves from either JunBL or ali-express and just cut the small muffler side and replace it with a straight 60.5mm pipe with the valve attached. Total cost of such an operation should be ~1300.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Great looking.
They quoted me 2130 usd which is apparently very similar to what you paid, but here the EVC catback costs only 1360 usd here, so thats a huge bump in price. :(
Second hand they can often be found for 700 usd so I am considering to get a used one, get 60.5mm valves from either JunBL or ali-express and just cut the small muffler side and replace it with a straight 60.5mm pipe with the valve attached. Total cost of such an operation should be ~1300.

Sounds like a plan, i'd do the same as well. all the best :thumbup:

Just make sure to put the valve at the same location as JUN, the closer to the tip the better because when the valve is closed the pipe will act as a resonator.

I keep on editing and adding things every time I remember something. For the vacuum line, rather than putting the electronic valve in the engine bay in the heat, I actually put it in the back were the battery/methonal are, the valve response is quicker. Only down side is that you have to wire the switch wire all the way to the back.
 
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Sounds like a plan, i'd do the same as well. all the best :thumbup:

Just make sure to put the valve at the same location as JUN, the closer to the tip the better because when the valve is closed the pipe will act as a resonator.

I keep on editing and adding things every time I remember something. For the vacuum line, rather than putting the electronic valve in the engine bay in the heat, I actually put it in the back were the battery/methonal are, the valve response is quicker. Only down side is that you have to wire the switch wire all the way to the back.
What electric valve are you talking about?
Do you have a kind of box?
 
What electric valve are you talking about?
Do you have a kind of box?

Its the electric switch/valve that controls the vacuum going into the exhaust valves.

To make the installation easier JUN recommends installing it right after the vacuum source in the engine bay. I chose to put it in the back and closer to the valves and away from the heat. Makes install more difficult but I had wires running inside my car anyways and a vacuum source to my Snow Performance WMI in the glove compartment, so I just teed of that and took it all the way to the boot.
 

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Its the electric switch/valve that controls the vacuum going into the exhaust valves.

To make the installation easier JUN recommends installing it right after the vacuum source in the engine bay. I chose to put it in the back and closer to the valves and away from the heat. Makes install more difficult but I had wires running inside my car anyways and a vacuum source to my Snow Performance WMI in the glove compartment, so I just teed of that and took it all the way to the boot.
Got it. In my case I ran the WMI line under the car then through the front passenger side fender. :)
 
Got it. In my case I ran the WMI line under the car then through the front passenger side fender. :)

i did exactly the same, im talking about the vacuum line.

For the exhaust you will need to run a vacuum line from the intake mani to the rear of the car. JUN suggests placing the electric valve right after the vacuum source from the intake mani and then running the vacuum line under the car all the way to the back and then tee to the two valves.

i ran the vacuum source inside the car all the way to the back and then put the switch in the battery area then out the car and teed to the valves.
 

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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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