3.3TT Are secondary downpipes worth it?

As for install tips... I've got a jack. I also have jack stands. But I've heard that swapping an exhaust with the car on jack stands is just plain risky.

Are ramps the recommended way to go if one doesn't have lift access?

Ramp questions for the room:
  1. Are 4 ramps better than 2 (fully lifting the car up but keeping it mostly level), or will 2 provide ample room (under the front wheels) when working on downpipes / secondaries and (switching to the rear wheels) when working on the cat back?
  2. Has anyone here used 4 ramps? (I see quite a few 8.5" tall (including the stop fin) but 6.5" lift ramps, but I'm pretty sure my stinger is about 7" above the ground in the middle, so those are no good for the rears (if mounting them in a forward direction).
  3. Which ramps do y'all think work well with the Stinger?
Thanks!
I did my MBRP exhaust using jack stands. I have the Harbor Freight jack cross beam to lift one whole side at a time, place the jack stands, then do the other side so it is up on 4 stands.
I never felt uncomfortable while under the car, from start to finish, was about 3 hours.
 
I did my MBRP exhaust using jack stands. I have the Harbor Freight jack cross beam to lift one whole side at a time, place the jack stands, then do the other side so it is up on 4 stands.
I never felt uncomfortable while under the car, from start to finish, was about 3 hours.
I have the same crossbeam. I’m wondering about preserving the pinch welds. Are y’all using adapters of any sort on your jack pad / cross beam and/or stands?
 
I have the same crossbeam. I’m wondering about preserving the pinch welds. Are y’all using adapters of any sort on your jack pad / cross beam and/or stands?
I use pinch weld adapters on the jack stands. The standard pad on the crossbeam seems to be ok on the pinch weld long enough to get it jacked up and the jack stands placed under the car in the designated position.
 
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I use pinch weld adapters on the jack stands. The standard pad on the crossbeam seems to be ok on the pinch weld long enough to get it jacked up and the jack stands placed under the car in the designated position.
My brain is a little wary of the whole “hoist one side of the car up on jack stands and then swing the other side up” workflow… does the car “roll” on the stands at all? Just seems hazardous (or potentially damaging to underbody / side skirts?) if we’re talking about getting the car like 12+” off the ground. Can you walk me through what to expect, tips or tricks, etc.? :)
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
My brain is a little wary of the whole “hoist one side of the car up on jack stands and then swing the other side up” workflow… does the car “roll” on the stands at all? Just seems hazardous (or potentially damaging to underbody / side skirts?) if we’re talking about getting the car like 12+” off the ground. Can you walk me through what to expect, tips or tricks, etc.? :)
Just make sure the jack can roll. It's only a problem when the jack gets stuck on a rock or the wheels wedged sideways, then it'll pull the car. Keep an eye on the other stands and make sure they're not tilting.
That's the same regardless of how or where you're lifting the car.
 
Nah that one is too phat, won't fit between the rail and sideskirt. This willView attachment 73358
So these will work for the jack… what are people using for the jack stands? (Last I checked my jack stand heads are all shaped like inverted moustaches, not really suited to mating with pucks like this. Should I be looking for different stands?).

(Edit) or maybe something like…

38AB97E4-AE1F-4017-AC5C-62ABA8060864.webp

(but again, likely too fat)…
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Looks like those are the same ones I sent a picture of! I think @General_Vodka was saying that adapters like that are too fat to fit between rail and side skirt, though.

Seems like it would be a bit silly to protect the rail and skirt with a narrow adapter while jacking the car up only to crush them with a jack stand adapter…
I didn't have a problem with them clearing the side skirts. The picture may be deceptive.
 
Looks like those are the same ones I sent a picture of! I think @General_Vodka was saying that adapters like that are too fat to fit between rail and side skirt, though.

Seems like it would be a bit silly to protect the rail and skirt with a narrow adapter while jacking the car up only to crush them with a jack stand adapter…
Narrow adapter goes bwteen sideskirt and rail. Normal adapter goes where the cutout is, preventing damage.
 
Sorry for the "basic" question... Do you need to remap if you swap OEM secundary downpipes for after market "cat-less" ones? Do you get an error light?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Sorry for the "basic" question... Do you need to remap if you swap OEM secundary downpipes for after market "cat-less" ones? Do you get an error light?
no you will not , unless your in the European market , and then some of them have the secondary's monitored
 
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Secondary doesn't do anything but add farting sounds
 
no you will not , unless your in the European market , and then some of them have the secondary's monitored
Thanks. Yes: I am in Portugal. They are very strict about this new green religion.
 
Thanks. Yes: I am in Portugal. They are very strict about this new green religion.
What a perfect way of saying it. The US can be bad in some places, but Europe tends to be totally nuts. The most ridiculous part is that like over 90% of the world's pollution comes from India and China, yet our governments are trying to hold us responsible for it.
 
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