Jumping in here as well to see if anyone has my issue. Have a very similar setup to you. Eibach springs & sway bars as well as Megan racing rear camber arms. Just had my car aligned this morning for the 3rd time in 3 weeks. Car just kept losing alignment and would pull slightly to the left. Tire pressures are fine, and I haven't hit any potholes or anything. Each time I brought it in they said the front toe was way out. Anyone know why this would be happening? Seems like the rear of the car is fine its just the front toe that keeps losing its spec. Shop said to drive it for a week and bring it back next week so they can look at it. Any help would be appreciated as always!
Had the same problem over the last year or so, it could never keep an alignment and always had a pull to the left (Rhd). Toe was always out ,so after much trial error it appears the culprit was the rear passenger shock.
So now the shock has been replaced over a month we're still tracking straight what a relief.
Had the same problem over the last year or so, it could never keep an alignment and always had a pull to the left (Rhd). Toe was always out ,so after much trial error it appears the culprit was the rear passenger shock.
So now the shock has been replaced over a month we're still tracking straight what a relief.
Passenger rear left toe was out (Rhd) and ive seen so many other dynos the same. I'll be interested to see how everthing hold up when i get my next aligment.
Had the same problem over the last year or so, it could never keep an alignment and always had a pull to the left (Rhd). Toe was always out ,so after much trial error it appears the culprit was the rear passenger shock.
So now the shock has been replaced over a month we're still tracking straight what a relief.
The car was checked by Kia doing diagnostic on each corner. When i said I've noticed there was 52kg more over the rear passenger wheel. You would have thought that would have rung alarm bells but no.
Kept getting alignments they only lasted 2 days normally before the big pull again. Took it to a suspension expert who couldn't fault it. But just as i was leaving one of the younger guys said as he walked past ( and he was not working on it) he noticed oil coming from the shock.
Took it back to Kia told them and the penny finally dropped. Luckily and gladly they replaced both rear shocks under warranty. Car is driving smoothly thus far.
As a Kia tech, I can say that I run into these issues you bring up a lot. We dont do a lot of custom work at our shop and really dont care to. I get paid by the job and I dont get paid to sit and chat with people about how to do various modifications. I had a guy come in last week with a wildly modified stinger with a variable height suspension. Not exactly sure what he is using, but when he brought it in it was so low I could barely get the alignment heads to fit due to no clearance between the fender and the tire. (the arms that hold the head onto the wheel grab the outer edge of the tire). I could really only get the toe set and it drove decent after the alignment. He took the car and returned a few days later because he said I did a garbage alignment. He was changing the ride height and it was wildly changing his camber and toe settings. i kinda felt bad for him, because he spent a lot of money on these things and he just either had no clue or was taking his frustration out on our shop. If you modify your car, we, as techs are not responsible for work that wasnt really thought out too well. Just throwing this out there.
Just to add...Just throwing lowering springs on your stinger isnt going to cut it. You need camber links in the rear at least and possibly toe links depending on how low you go. As for the front, I have not found lower links or spindles to fix toe and camber issues on those yet.
**Update**
I finally picked up a set of new tires - I went with stock sizes and a less expensive tire (Arroyo Grand Sport) until I know the alignment is figured out. Just had the alignment done again yesterday because the shop asked me to bring it back after I installed new tires. I’ve attached the new spec sheet and the previous spec sheet that I posted earlier in this thread. The left rear camber & toe (driver side) had shifted after 2600 miles of driving. I believe camber moving will throw off the toe. So I’m not sure what is going on there. They readjusted everything with the new tires. The technician said the spacers are not a problem. Again I have the Eibach pro kit, Megan camber arms only and 20mm spacers. I will have it looked at in another 2500 miles.
**Update**
I finally picked up a set of new tires - I went with stock sizes and a less expensive tire (Arroyo Grand Sport) until I know the alignment is figured out. Just had the alignment done again yesterday because the shop asked me to bring it back after I installed new tires. I’ve attached the new spec sheet and the previous spec sheet that I posted earlier in this thread. The left rear camber & toe (driver side) had shifted after 2600 miles of driving. I believe camber moving will throw off the toe. So I’m not sure what is going on there. They readjusted everything with the new tires. The technician said the spacers are not a problem. Again I have the Eibach pro kit, Megan camber arms only and 20mm spacers. I will have it looked at in another 2500 miles.
Any update on this? I have the Eibach Pro-Kit with the megan racing camber arms and am also having a hard time keeping alignment. Thinking of just biting the bullet and getting the rear toe arms as well.
I had an alignment done right after installing Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs. Then I took the Stinger a Track Day, and it could not hold the alignment through the event. By the 3rd session, I could feel the rear end getting increasingly squirrely. I originally thought it was my tires heating up too much, then I saw the rear camber was visibly way over the -2.0deg spec on the alignment sheet. On both sides.
Had the alignment rechecked, and sure enough, the rear end was all over the place. They were able to reset everything back to within spec, but they made a note on my "after" alignment sheet that right rear camber adjustment is maxed out, meaning the eccentric bolt for camber is sucked all the way in, just to hold camber at -2.0deg. Needless to say, I have ordered the Megan Racing rear camber links. We'll see how they go. Since front camber is non-adjustable, I prefer to keep rear camber moderate relative to front, to reduce initial turn-in understeer.
I have a feeling I might eventually replace all 4 links, in order to tighten up the rear suspension. The Stinger has always had a vague feel to the rear end. My guess is all those soft rubber bushings are great for NVH isolation, but not so great for handling sharpness.
I have the Megan camber arms and since my alignment about 3k ago it still tracks straight and no issue. I even pulled the rear tires this last weekend to do some new rear pads that don't squeal like a pig and checked the tightness and condition of the suspension and everything was nice and tight. I still want to get the toe arms though, I should have when I did the suspension in the first place.
Any update on this? I have the Eibach Pro-Kit with the megan racing camber arms and am also having a hard time keeping alignment. Thinking of just biting the bullet and getting the rear toe arms as well.
I just had it aligned again about a month ago. The driver side rear moved again. Not as much this time but was off again. I can post the pic of the pre post specs tomorrow if you want to see it. Let me know.
I just had it aligned again about a month ago. The driver side rear moved again. Not as much this time but was off again. I can post the pic of the pre post specs tomorrow if you want to see it. Let me know.
For sure post the spec sheet AFTER your previous alignment, and the spec sheet BEFORE you latest alignment, if you don't mind. If only one or two numbers have changed, it might shed some light on which control arm might have shifted (lengthened or shortened).
I just installed GT-F, waiting 10 days to get alignment. Don't know alot about subject, do I need or will I need Megan camber arms and if so, do I need to get front and back
I just installed GT-F, waiting 10 days to get alignment. Don't know alot about subject, do I need or will I need Megan camber arms and if so, do I need to get front and back
Some people have been fine with it on just springs, others (like me) have gotten the Megan racing camber and toe arms. I've been fighting with alignments for like 4 months now and just had everything sorted out yesterday.
Here's what I'll say;
1. If you get the camber arms, get the toe arms too. I don't think its needed 100% but it will definitely make it a lot easier to get everything back in spec for whoever is doing the alignment.
2. FIND A GOOD ALIGNMENT SHOP - Somewhere that works on lowered/modified cars and knows their stuff when it comes to alignments. I took my car to 2 generally reputable shops, one of the shops kept my car for 3 days, and they both couldn't do it. Asked around on my local cars & coffee fb page and got a suggestions for the 3rd shop. Took my car there and they did it in 2 hours better than I've ever had it before. The owner regularly tracks his car and does his own alignments. I paid $160, well worth it.
From what I've learned, either keep the OEM linkages/arms or get both the Megan racing camber & toe arms. Either way, take it to a good alignment shop that has experience on modified cars.
your front and rear camber will be off by at least 1° should wait a couple weeks before you aligne it because your springs are going to settle if the car is pulling it's a bad alignment if it didn't do it before hand. I'm actually going to take my front lowering springs off and install coilovers so I can zero in my camber , I need the lower toe control arm for the rear in order to really dial everything in.
several thousand miles with -1° camber minimal tire wear but noticeable.
sway bars set on stiff and lowered will be a bit rought on regular roads
Whether camber arm would be required depends a lot on the lowering amount for your particular application. The lower you go, the more likely the car will run out of rear camber adjustment. Eibach Pro Kit springs lowered our G70 about 0.8" front and rear and the alignment shop had no problem getting rear camber dialed within spec'ed range. I can tell from the clocking position of the eccentric bolts that they are not near the max adjustment point.
The exact same Eibach springs dropped my Stinger a bit lowered, especially in the rear. The same alignment shop was able to set the rear camber at 2.0 deg but the eccentric bolt is maxed out. I'm installing the rear camber arms so I can get the alignment redone and the rear camber reset to closer to 1.0 deg. The toe arm isn't technically required, since that eccentric bolt is not maxed out yet, so there is still some adjustment range left on it. I'm most likely going to get them anyway, more so to replace the OEM arms with soft rubber bushing.
FWIW, I would recommend you find a shop that does lifetime alignment. I bought mine at Firestone for $170. I've already been back twice with the Stinger, and about to go back again after installing the camber arms.
