Dustin
Active Member
Blow off hoses don’t need to be on there. Just makes it louder. I don’t mind.Lots of stuff blocked off. BO hoses removed!! No check engine light/Systems operation errors??
Blow off hoses don’t need to be on there. Just makes it louder. I don’t mind.Lots of stuff blocked off. BO hoses removed!! No check engine light/Systems operation errors??
I'm a lil hesitant to completely plug off any lines. I plumbed this unit to where nothing was blocked and after a mile of driving the check engine light came on. Like GTB suggested, I returned the single can set-up and am going with the two can versionNo. Both breather lines go into the catch can then into the intake. I just plugged the breather port on the intake with a rubber vacuum cap.
I didn’t plug off any lines. I just capped the no longer needed ports on my intakes to the turbos. Blow off returns and the vent port. Nothing from the engine or valve covers is blocked off.I'm a lil hesitant to completely plug off any lines. I plumbed this unit to where nothing was blocked and after a mile of driving the check engine light came on. Like GTB suggested, I returned the single can set-up and am going with the two can version
I'm a lil hesitant to completely plug off any lines. I plumbed this unit to where nothing was blocked and after a mile of driving the check engine light came on. Like GTB suggested, I returned the single can set-up and am going with the two can version
My connection was identical to his with all hoses connected...If the light came on because of that, you probably made a wrong connection somehow.
Single can = two in, one out connected to one of the inlets, other (pre-turbo) inlet capped.
Blow off hoses not needed but without catch cans you might see some oily residu coming from the valve(s). Hoses need to be plugged or connection at inlet capped to prevent unfiltered air from entering the engine.
Did you read the code it threw? What did it say?My connection was identical to his with all hoses connected...
Than something else triggered it maybe. Fault code is stored and can be recalled through OBD II port (with the correct equipment ofcourse) or does the Stinger provide it itself?My connection was identical to his with all hoses connected...
That was the only performance mod to that point, I recently added the K&N Intake. I've forgotten the message car displayed but the check engine AND a message was displayed. I returned everything to stock and the light went off.Anything else you changed on the car that might trigger it?
Is the light still on?
Than something else triggered it maybe. Fault code is stored and can be recalled through OBD II port (with the correct equipment ofcourse) or does the Stinger provide it itself?
Anything else you changed on the car that might trigger it?
Is the light still on?
I also had a T-connection providing 2 outlet connections. Video too large to uploadDid you read the code it threw? What did it say?
If you didn’t clear the code it’s still stored in the ECM. Stop by any auto parts store and have them read it. Post a picture of the T connection and the message on the OBD11 screenI also had a T-connection providing 2 outlet connections. Video too large to upload
I also had a T-connection providing 2 outlet connections. Video too large to upload
I've got an old Harbor Freight OBD code reader, think that'll work? And where is the OBD port, anybody know?If you didn’t clear the code it’s still stored in the ECM. Stop by any auto parts store and have them read it. Post a picture of the T connection and the message on the OBD11 screen
No. Both breather lines go into the catch can then into the intake. I just plugged the breather port on the intake with a rubber vacuum cap.
Port is under the steering wheelI've got an old Harbor Freight OBD code reader, think that'll work? And where is the OBD port, anybody know?
There are no lines from the motor plugged.You don't think that can do long term damage? I was told by several mechanics not to plug anything, so worried plugging the breather port could lead to problems down the line.
Ok guys here’s an update. Don’t waist your time or money with two single catch cans or the dual inlet. Run a single inlet and out. The drivers side valve cover hose is a fresh air in on the 3.3TT. Pointless to run a can on a hose that does not discharge oils or vapors. Since I posted the video I have put the stock hoses back on the driver side valve cover and hooked back to the inlet on the turbo intake like stock. If you have the drivers side vent/fresh air hose into the motor plumbed anywhere else “DON’T”! Put it back to stock. The only line on these motors that will benefit from a catch can is the passenger side PCV hose. If the motor doesn’t have the fresh air in it builds way to much crank case pressure and will push the dipstick out along with oil. Trust me! I had it happen when I was running the car real hard........ took an hour and about a gallon of degreaser to clean everything up!Ok guys I made a short simple video of the ADD W1 3.3 oil catch can install. The kit from K8 does not come with clear instructions and the threaded fitting for the inlets and outlet should come with O-rings but does not. Also be sure to check the tightness of the little allen heads around the top of the can, mine were not tight. Kinda disappointed in this cans quality for the price.
Perfect! Glad to see your running the outlet back to the vacuum port on the intake. The directions from K8’s vendors are incorrect on running it to the drivers side turbo intake. These cars need the vacuum to suck the vapors out of the PCV. Looks good to.Thanks for this info Dustin. I have a left over catch can from my Jeep I plan to plumb in since I we dont need 2 cans. Stoked to save some cash and keep my purple BT can! Yes, I was inspired, and we have this: Total bucks 0.