Turbo protection/warranty

[SRV]

178 psi min. Didn’t quite Reach that but numbers are consistent

The consistency is the important part.

Your lower readings could simply be from the compression guage itself reading lower than it should.

Or, it could be from the cam-timing holding the intake valves open longer on the compression stroke (..retarded timing), thus bleeding and lowering the dynamic compression ratio. So the cams may not be timed correctly, or something might be wrong with the variable valve timing mechanism - but I would say that's unlikely unless someone was in there.

 

[Brichinelo]

The consistency is the important part.

Your lower readings could simply be from the compression guage itself reading lower than it should.

Or, it could be from the cam-timing holding the intake valves open longer on the compression stroke (..retarded timing), thus bleeding and lowering the dynamic compression ratio. So the cams may not be timed correctly, or something might be wrong with the variable valve timing mechanism - but I would say that's unlikely unless someone was in there.

I pray it’s from what you mentioned. So over this ish at this point. Got an appointment set up with a mod friendly dealership this Thursday so pray everything goes well. Never buying used again I swear

 

[Kamauxx]

Did you verify that all of the various connections in the engine bay are securely snapped?

 

[Brichinelo]

Did you verify that all of the various connections in the engine bay are securely snapped?

Checked connections everything looks good. Taking it back out to the shop on Thursday.

 

[oddball]

160/165 PSI: This is perfectly fine. The ""spec"" is pretty worthless. Cranking pressure has a huge number of variables: whether or not the intake was removed, if it's on then the position of the throttle blade, state of charge of the battery, temp of the engine, temp of ambient air, elevation, what the ECU is doing with the cams, etc etc etc. Any experience mechanic will say that consistency is what matters, and the absolute reading is only useful for other broad strokes - e.g., a car like this that reads 100 PSI across the board might indicate something else is wrong - but I'd first make sure it's cranking normally.

The leakdown numbers are really good, and the mechanic didn't call out anything interesting from that test. That's also an excellent sign.

Codes: one of them is the gas evap system isn't working properly. The mechanic almost certainly disconnected some of those parts while doing the compression test, so the ECU is pissed. The other code says the throttle blade isn't where the ECU thinks it should be. The mechanic would've had it disconnected during the test, and possibly bumped it during R&R. So in my mind both of those are totally expected. The only issue is the mechanic should've done a quick test drive and cleared the codes before handing the car back to you. Just go back to them and say "WTF guys, spend 5 minutes to finish it up".

A problem with modern cars is you can't do jack shit without the ECU. So the ECU was kinda-sorta alive during the compression test, but the engine sure as hell wasn't running and a bunch of parts were disconnected, so it got pretty confused.

In my mind it looks like a clean bill of health. The intercooler sits between the turbos and the engine so most of the debris from the compressor wheels probably got stuck in there. It'd be good to inspect it at some point, but it's made it this far.

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

For future reference, grab a bluetooth OBD2 adapter off amazon and download one of the plethora of apps that can do code scanning/clearing and much more. "car scanner" or "torque" comes to mind personally. they are way more user friendly than any of the autozone scanners and if they cant come up with a result in the app, they will usually give you a link that will automatically google the issue for you.

 

[Brichinelo]

160/165 PSI: This is perfectly fine. The ""spec"" is pretty worthless. Cranking pressure has a huge number of variables: whether or not the intake was removed, if it's on then the position of the throttle blade, state of charge of the battery, temp of the engine, temp of ambient air, elevation, what the ECU is doing with the cams, etc etc etc. Any experience mechanic will say that consistency is what matters, and the absolute reading is only useful for other broad strokes - e.g., a car like this that reads 100 PSI across the board might indicate something else is wrong - but I'd first make sure it's cranking normally.

The leakdown numbers are really good, and the mechanic didn't call out anything interesting from that test. That's also an excellent sign.

Codes: one of them is the gas evap system isn't working properly. The mechanic almost certainly disconnected some of those parts while doing the compression test, so the ECU is pissed. The other code says the throttle blade isn't where the ECU thinks it should be. The mechanic would've had it disconnected during the test, and possibly bumped it during R&R. So in my mind both of those are totally expected. The only issue is the mechanic should've done a quick test drive and cleared the codes before handing the car back to you. Just go back to them and say "WTF guys, spend 5 minutes to finish it up".

A problem with modern cars is you can't do jack shit without the ECU. So the ECU was kinda-sorta alive during the compression test, but the engine sure as hell wasn't running and a bunch of parts were disconnected, so it got pretty confused.

In my mind it looks like a clean bill of health. The intercooler sits between the turbos and the engine so most of the debris from the compressor wheels probably got stuck in there. It'd be good to inspect it at some point, but it's made it this far.

You are a big sigh relief for my mental right now dealing with this car my dude. @D.J. was stating that the numbers weren’t factory spec (178 psi) according to the specs and manual but like you said all numbers were consistent and none out of the ordinary. The tech did state he removed my intakes to do the tests as well as some other things so probably just tightening some things up here and there like you said. I’m sure those factors played a part in the numbers and like you said as well the tech stated everything looks solid. I told them about the codes already and they told me to bring it back out on Thursday which I will do. I’ll also have them double check the intercooler even though I already did and like @SRV told me too but just for peace of mind at this point. I’m far from mechanically inclined as to why I chose to take it to a shop and advice from your guys. Like always I appreciate all of you for your help and insights and pointing me in the right direction.

 

[Brichinelo]

For future reference, grab a bluetooth OBD2 adapter off amazon and download one of the plethora of apps that can do code scanning/clearing and much more. "car scanner" or "torque" comes to mind personally. they are way more user friendly than any of the autozone scanners and if they cant come up with a result in the app, they will usually give you a link that will automatically google the issue for you.

Definitely will be grabbing one now. Any specific one you recommend as well as the app ? So when you have your own Bluetooth OBD2 scanner you can clear the codes yourself? And the benefit to this is what? No lights on the dashboard ? But the codes are still stored on the ecu correct ?

 

[Brichinelo]

160/165 PSI: This is perfectly fine. The ""spec"" is pretty worthless. Cranking pressure has a huge number of variables: whether or not the intake was removed, if it's on then the position of the throttle blade, state of charge of the battery, temp of the engine, temp of ambient air, elevation, what the ECU is doing with the cams, etc etc etc. Any experience mechanic will say that consistency is what matters, and the absolute reading is only useful for other broad strokes - e.g., a car like this that reads 100 PSI across the board might indicate something else is wrong - but I'd first make sure it's cranking normally.

The leakdown numbers are really good, and the mechanic didn't call out anything interesting from that test. That's also an excellent sign.

Codes: one of them is the gas evap system isn't working properly. The mechanic almost certainly disconnected some of those parts while doing the compression test, so the ECU is pissed. The other code says the throttle blade isn't where the ECU thinks it should be. The mechanic would've had it disconnected during the test, and possibly bumped it during R&R. So in my mind both of those are totally expected. The only issue is the mechanic should've done a quick test drive and cleared the codes before handing the car back to you. Just go back to them and say "WTF guys, spend 5 minutes to finish it up".

A problem with modern cars is you can't do jack shit without the ECU. So the ECU was kinda-sorta alive during the compression test, but the engine sure as hell wasn't running and a bunch of parts were disconnected, so it got pretty confused.

In my mind it looks like a clean bill of health. The intercooler sits between the turbos and the engine so most of the debris from the compressor wheels probably got stuck in there. It'd be good to inspect it at some point, but it's made it this far.

@StingerbyAdoom this app is cool? I saw it on the video @Kamauxx posted for the codes. And as far as factory specs anyone else who did the compression and air leak down test and got exact factory specs ?

 

[Brichinelo]

Final question I promise lol how good are these hks plugs good for and when I do tune with the lap3 stage 1.5 do I need to regap

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

@StingerbyAdoom this app is cool? I saw it on the video @Kamauxx posted for the codes. And as far as factory specs anyone else who did the compression and air leak down test and got exact factory specs ?

Not sure about that one as I have never used it, But this one is generally the most recommended for iPhone users, as it can do a lot more than just read codes, for example, it can also read ign timing!

‎Car Scanner ELM OBD2

‎See what your car is doing in realtime, get OBD fault codes, car performance, sensor data and more! Car Scanner is a vehicle / car performance / trip computer / diagnostics tool and scanner that uses an OBD II Wi-Fi or Bluetooth 4.0 (Bluetooth LE) adapter to connect to your OBD2 engine...

apps.apple.com

 

[Brichinelo]

Not sure about that one as I have never used it, But this one is generally the most recommended for iPhone users, as it can do a lot more than just read codes, for example, it can also read ign timing!

‎Car Scanner ELM OBD2

‎See what your car is doing in realtime, get OBD fault codes, car performance, sensor data and more! Car Scanner is a vehicle / car performance / trip computer / diagnostics tool and scanner that uses an OBD II Wi-Fi or Bluetooth 4.0 (Bluetooth LE) adapter to connect to your OBD2 engine...

apps.apple.com

So you need to get the app in conjunction with the scanner ?

 

[AtomicGTL]

im curious if op's car had one or two+ previous owners

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

So you need to get the app in conjunction with the scanner ?

It doesn't have to be that scanner specifically, that is just an example of one, but yes. the app which is free then a scanner off amazon. they are usually in the 10 to 20 USD range.

 

[Brichinelo]

It doesn't have to be that scanner specifically, that is just an example of one, but yes. the app which is free then a scanner off amazon. they are usually in the 10 to 20 USD range.

Gotcha thanks

 

[Brichinelo]

im curious if op's car had one or two+ previous owners

Two previous owners
First owner used as a loaner
Second owner I’m guessing went all in (found denso plugs when I got those test done yesterday)

 

[D.J.]

And as far as factory specs anyone else who did the compression and air leak down test and got exact factory specs ?

To get factory specs, you would have to follow the factory procedure which was posted in post #105


If you skip step 1, you will get different pressures, this would be expected.

Nothing really wrong with that, but you can't expect to get full HOT pressure if you don't have a full hot engine.

Even pressures across all 6 cylinders is way more important here, and great news in this case.

 

[Brichinelo]

To get factory specs, you would have to follow the factory procedure which was posted in post #105


If you skip step 1, you will get different pressures, this would be expected.

Nothing really wrong with that, but you can't expect to get full HOT pressure if you don't have a full hot engine.

Even pressures across all 6 cylinders is way more important here, and great news in this case.

Yep consistent numbers acorss the board and like I stated earlier the car was not hot or at operating temps when done

 

[oddball]

Torque is the de-facto standard app. Takes a little getting used to as it's meant more for gauges/real time monitoring than it is for just reading codes or checking emissions status.
You'll also need a OBDII bluetooth dongle. Swing a stick and you'll find one on Amazon. The cheap ones are, well, cheap - but they work. You can spend more and get faster data rates, but not strictly necessary.

The benefit is you can read codes at your leisure and clear them. Clearing the code does clear it and it resets the ECU. The ECU then starts fresh trying to re-learn your particular car. It'll throw codes again if the problem still persists. Clearing codes also resets the emissions status, and it takes ~50 miles for the ECU to decide whether or not the emissions parts are working correctly. Which means you can't get the car inspected until those tests are done. A decent scanner will also tell you the status of those tests.
Most ECUs will store a history of codes, but that's harder to get to and usually requires manufacturer-specific stuff.

 

[Brichinelo]

Torque is the de-facto standard app. Takes a little getting used to as it's meant more for gauges/real time monitoring than it is for just reading codes or checking emissions status.
You'll also need a OBDII bluetooth dongle. Swing a stick and you'll find one on Amazon. The cheap ones are, well, cheap - but they work. You can spend more and get faster data rates, but not strictly necessary.

The benefit is you can read codes at your leisure and clear them. Clearing the code does clear it and it resets the ECU. The ECU then starts fresh trying to re-learn your particular car. It'll throw codes again if the problem still persists. Clearing codes also resets the emissions status, and it takes ~50 miles for the ECU to decide whether or not the emissions parts are working correctly. Which means you can't get the car inspected until those tests are done. A decent scanner will also tell you the status of those tests.
Most ECUs will store a history of codes, but that's harder to get to and usually requires manufacturer-specific stuff.

Very informative my guy for a car newbie like myself. I’ll be picking one of those up for safe keeping. Thanks