How to power front seat inside a house?
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boosted1g
Sustaining Member
Your right on the motor- being ground. These DC fan controllers are a little counter-intuitive to what one would naturally assume. They must be limiting what can be sent through to ground.
So yeah, try:
PSU to Pin4 of fan
PSU to POWER+ of controller and Pin3 of fan
Motor- to Pin2 of fan
Ground to controller.
In regards to the controller:
First and foremost make sure the one you selected is NOT a PWM controller. These only work with a PWM fan, not a straight DC fan. DC fans are controlled by adjusting voltage, a PWM fan uses pulses to cycle the fan on and off to prevent it from reaching full speed.
Secondly, the controller I selected can easily be mounted. You take the knob off, unscrew the nut, then from the bottom side you slide it into a hole you drilled, tighten nut back down, put knob back on. Thus you only need to drill 1 simple hole to mount it.
So yeah, try:
PSU to Pin4 of fan
PSU to POWER+ of controller and Pin3 of fan
Motor- to Pin2 of fan
Ground to controller.
In regards to the controller:
First and foremost make sure the one you selected is NOT a PWM controller. These only work with a PWM fan, not a straight DC fan. DC fans are controlled by adjusting voltage, a PWM fan uses pulses to cycle the fan on and off to prevent it from reaching full speed.
Secondly, the controller I selected can easily be mounted. You take the knob off, unscrew the nut, then from the bottom side you slide it into a hole you drilled, tighten nut back down, put knob back on. Thus you only need to drill 1 simple hole to mount it.
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I was looking at that knob and the nut and wondering if mounting it like you talked about would work, so from that perspective it's still in play, but one of the product features of this controller says the following.
Product features:
●PWM stepless speed regulation switch can completely turn off the output. Extra long knob screw to meet installation needs
Product features:
●PWM stepless speed regulation switch can completely turn off the output. Extra long knob screw to meet installation needs
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boosted1g
Sustaining Member
That controller is not PWM, sounds like it is saying that it wont work if connected to a PWM fan/PWM system.
I only saw the model number from eBay listing pictures and couldn't find any specs on it from that, was looking the other day. Some guy answered my question about that speed controller saying it was not PWM, just a simple rheostat, so sounds fine.
That C14 power cord inlet. Being that I need switch at AC side, I thought better to get one that looked like that, but had switch built in. Otherwise, I would convert AC power cord back to wires to a switch. I thought something like this was better. Only thing is that it would make power cord stick up by switches, not great aesthetically, but I could get a right angle cord to make less worse. I can't think of a cleaner way at the moment.
One other thing is that the speed controller clicks off, so I was thinking that I wouldn't need a switch for the blower then, but will test it.
That C14 power cord inlet. Being that I need switch at AC side, I thought better to get one that looked like that, but had switch built in. Otherwise, I would convert AC power cord back to wires to a switch. I thought something like this was better. Only thing is that it would make power cord stick up by switches, not great aesthetically, but I could get a right angle cord to make less worse. I can't think of a cleaner way at the moment.
One other thing is that the speed controller clicks off, so I was thinking that I wouldn't need a switch for the blower then, but will test it.
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I think being at n00b at this was making me think things needed to be a certain way. I read up on switches and understand how they work. Simple, knew at some point in the past, but forgot. 
If I ran from PSU Line/Neutral/Ground to rocker switch, then ran those same 3 back out to the C14 inlet you showed me, then that C14 can be down below mounted out of the way, everything works, switch exposed, power cord not. This assumes I am understanding this all correctly.
If I ran from PSU Line/Neutral/Ground to rocker switch, then ran those same 3 back out to the C14 inlet you showed me, then that C14 can be down below mounted out of the way, everything works, switch exposed, power cord not. This assumes I am understanding this all correctly.
boosted1g
Sustaining Member
Correct, the switch in no way has to be where the psu cord plugs in. The C14 plug allows easy removal, and also means if someone trips out of the cord then live electrical is not ripped out of psu.I think being at n00b at this was making me think things needed to be a certain way. I read up on switches and understand how they work. Simple, knew at some point in the past, but forgot.
If I ran from PSU Line/Neutral/Ground to rocker switch, then ran those same 3 back out to the C14 inlet you showed me, then that C14 can be down below mounted out of the way, everything works, switch exposed, power cord not. This assumes I am understanding this all correctly.
You want a switch on the power lines going to fan not just speed control. It's bad on the fan to be given almost but not quite enough voltage to turn for extended period of time
I received the speed controller did some testing. Based on some other fans with a built-in speed controller I've tested in the past, unless I'm misremembering them having PWM, I'm starting to think this fan may be PWM compatible.
I found that if I didn't have the dial up to around 60% minimum, that the fan would only spin temporarily, spin back down, then spin back up, and keep repeating that, which is what I have seen when I didn't turn up other fans I've tried in the past that has speed controllers.
Maybe that minimum speed is okay, it seemed kind of high, but it has to push through cushion, so I'm not sure if that range was acceptable or not, probably could live with it.
I decided to do some testing of the voltage through the speed controller to see if voltage was being adjusted. At around that 60% setting, it was still running at 12 volts. I even turned it all the way down to the very lowest setting which doesn't even run the fan at all, yet it was still delivering 12 volts, so unless you can't test the voltage properly through the speed controller, which I would think you could, then it doesn't seem to be adjusting the voltage, yet it does change the fan speed.
A related thing I found was that if I clicked it all the way off, the voltage dropped to zero, so it seems like it is able to be used as an off switch since in the opposition there is no voltage coming through it anymore.
Edit:
I did misremember PWM in the other fans I tested, not that I know they didn't use it, I'm just not sure. The one specifically says that it adjusts the voltage to control the fan speed. Here were the two different fans that I had tested.
Wathai 120mm x 38mm 110V 220V AC Powered Axial Fan ,12V Variable Speed Controller with AC Plug ,for Receiver Xbox DVR Playstation Component Electronics Cooling and Cabinet Ventilation https://a.co/d/2ZRGmSn
AC Infinity AXIAL S1238D, Dual 120mm Muffin Fan with Speed Controller, UL-Certified for Doorway, Room to Room, Wood Stove, Fireplace, Circulation Projects https://a.co/d/9BdCwhy
I found that if I didn't have the dial up to around 60% minimum, that the fan would only spin temporarily, spin back down, then spin back up, and keep repeating that, which is what I have seen when I didn't turn up other fans I've tried in the past that has speed controllers.
Maybe that minimum speed is okay, it seemed kind of high, but it has to push through cushion, so I'm not sure if that range was acceptable or not, probably could live with it.
I decided to do some testing of the voltage through the speed controller to see if voltage was being adjusted. At around that 60% setting, it was still running at 12 volts. I even turned it all the way down to the very lowest setting which doesn't even run the fan at all, yet it was still delivering 12 volts, so unless you can't test the voltage properly through the speed controller, which I would think you could, then it doesn't seem to be adjusting the voltage, yet it does change the fan speed.
A related thing I found was that if I clicked it all the way off, the voltage dropped to zero, so it seems like it is able to be used as an off switch since in the opposition there is no voltage coming through it anymore.
Edit:
I did misremember PWM in the other fans I tested, not that I know they didn't use it, I'm just not sure. The one specifically says that it adjusts the voltage to control the fan speed. Here were the two different fans that I had tested.
Wathai 120mm x 38mm 110V 220V AC Powered Axial Fan ,12V Variable Speed Controller with AC Plug ,for Receiver Xbox DVR Playstation Component Electronics Cooling and Cabinet Ventilation https://a.co/d/2ZRGmSn
AC Infinity AXIAL S1238D, Dual 120mm Muffin Fan with Speed Controller, UL-Certified for Doorway, Room to Room, Wood Stove, Fireplace, Circulation Projects https://a.co/d/9BdCwhy
I did another test since I thought I remember running the speed selector pin at 5 volts had the fan running slower and it does, quite a big difference actually and the wattage is about eight less Watts used, so even though it doesn't seem like it adjusted the voltage it didn't even do it down that far, so either way this speed controller besides having a built-in on off switch doesn't seem all that compatible with this fan.
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I bought a step down buck converter and it works to lower voltage and therefore lower fan speed, has been working well. I can set 2 presets to easily and quickly switch to. Because of how it works, I can only get 11.4V, which is a little less than full speed, but probably sufficient. There is an off switch which does cut voltage entirely when in off position.
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I'm close to finally getting the seat installed after just about having finished the wiring and prepped everything else related. I was getting some conflicting information from an electrician and from a friend who's a mechanic and is familiar with car electronics.
The electrician said I didn't need fuses like I did have when I was powering the other seat with a battery since between the relay and the wall and the circuit breaker and the power supply, protection was there.
However, my friend is saying that there's only protection for everything up until the seat electronics themselves and that I would still need to have fuses. I know a relay could also be in place and somewhere in this thread or relay was mentioned, but that was with having to recreate something that no longer was needed, so should I be putting fuses after the power supply before the seat or not?
The electrician said I didn't need fuses like I did have when I was powering the other seat with a battery since between the relay and the wall and the circuit breaker and the power supply, protection was there.
However, my friend is saying that there's only protection for everything up until the seat electronics themselves and that I would still need to have fuses. I know a relay could also be in place and somewhere in this thread or relay was mentioned, but that was with having to recreate something that no longer was needed, so should I be putting fuses after the power supply before the seat or not?
RedCal
2500 Posts Club!
A few dollars in fuses to potentially save all the work you have done? It can't hurt...
boosted1g
Sustaining Member
+1 on that.
The breaker protects the AC portion going to the PSU, but it doesn't do a damn thing for the DC portion.
A relay offers some protection on the lines connected to the coil, but nothing for the NC/NO/COMM lines (the ones going from PSU->relay->seat modules.
Bottom line, a fuse plus an in-line-holder for $3-4 to protect a control box that will cost several hundred to replace is a good investment.
RogueIV
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Thanks, went ahead and ordered some fuses.
I can actually be helpful to the last question. No, non-ventilated seats do not have the air channels. I know because I watched a video of a guy taking off the back cover and they are not there.
I can actually be helpful to the last question. No, non-ventilated seats do not have the air channels. I know because I watched a video of a guy taking off the back cover and they are not there.
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
With the voltage regulator, I lose 10% of voltage by design. I can adjust the voltage with my PSU to help with that. I know for 12 volt stuff, running 13+ volts is common. I figure 13.35 volts gets me back to 12 volts. What can I safely get away with voltage wise?
Hey there, I realize it's been 3 years since the last reply in this but I'm trying to do the same thing now and figured it's worth a shot. Would you be able to do a write up on how you wired just for the main motors/side switches to work? I'm sure I can figure it out but got very lost in all of the posts of this thread
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
