Eibach Rear Sway Bar Impressions

[NS_Stinger]

Back to report that I have my summer 19" wheels on now and I can confirm I love this rear sway bar. I kept it on soft and the car just feels so much more buttoned down in the back. Ride quality on soft feels nearly identical to stock, maybe a little rougher in the rear over really bumpy roads but nothing worth fussing over. 100% recommend the rear bar on soft on the AWD GT.

Edit: Forgot to add that the bar has been totally silent. I lubed it up really good when I installed it and used all the lube it came with even thoug it seemed excessive. I drove the car over the entire winter so the lube had plenty of time to deteriorate from salt and slush but no issues to report.

 

[Tonkabob]

Thicker bar is going to twist the chasis more especially when the bushings move freely. At least one other Stinger owner also confirmed their bushings were locked stock.
If you lube the upper hard rubber door seals the chasis flex squeeks go away.
The upgrade is amazing just do it.

 

[Ruturaj]

Thicker bar is going to twist the chasis more especially when the bushings move freely. At least one other Stinger owner also confirmed their bushings were locked stock.
If you lube the upper hard rubber door seals the chasis flex squeeks go away.
The upgrade is amazing just do it.

Yes. This thread is about discussing what do with sway upgrade. I am going to upgrade one (rear only) or both. So braces I assume. Wouldn't putting lube on door seals is like hiding dirt under the rug? (Please don't take this in wrong way, the entire thread is inspired from your one post, I am genuinely asking).

 

[Tonkabob]

Yes. This thread is about discussing what do with sway upgrade. I am going to upgrade one (rear only) or both. So braces I assume. Wouldn't putting lube on door seals is like hiding dirt under the rug? (Please don't take this in wrong way, the entire thread is inspired from your one post, I am genuinely asking).

Eitherway. Even stock you will get twist squeeks. Bracing helps. My rear mid brace is for sale as it won't fit over my exhaust.

 

[Ruturaj]

Eitherway. Even stock you will get twist squeeks. Bracing helps. My rear mid brace is for sale as it won't fit over my exhaust.

Lol, I was in Seattle last weekend. Would have picked it up then. I will PM you (let's check shipping cost on that). What's your advice on getting those (which ones should I get)? I think rear mid is important from your posts where your issues returned after taking those off. What about the rear lower?

 

[SteveCo]

Using the work 'locked' to begin with is just wrong.

Two small flexible rubber locator bushings, on a steel sway bar secured to the chassis with U clamps, are not going to significantly inhibit the torsional force at work on that bar from the continuous vertical movements and lateral weight transfer of a 4000 lb. car.

There is no possible way those would immobilize the sway bar from twisting as per its design purpose, and turn the sway bar ends into independent 'springs'.

 

[Tonkabob]

Using the work 'locked' to begin with is just wrong.

Two small flexible rubber locator bushings, on a steel sway bar secured to the chassis with U clamps, are not going to significantly inhibit the torsional force at work on that bar from the continuous vertical movements and lateral weight transfer of a 4000 lb. car.

There is no possible way those would immobilize the sway bar from twisting as per its design purpose, and turn the sway bar ends into independent 'springs'.

Thats what i thought but did the install myself. Locked solid. Front pivoted as all sway bars do.

 

[Ruturaj]

Using the work 'locked' to begin with is just wrong.

Two small flexible rubber locator bushings, on a steel sway bar secured to the chassis with U clamps, are not going to significantly inhibit the torsional force at work on that bar from the continuous vertical movements and lateral weight transfer of a 4000 lb. car.

There is no possible way those would immobilize the sway bar from twisting as per its design purpose, and turn the sway bar ends into independent 'springs'.

There are three variables here, force needed to move sways in bushing, force needed to twist the sways and force exerted by car.

I completely agree that car will exert more force by a high margin. But until, we compare force needed to move sway bar inside bushing and force needed to twist bars we can't be sure of your theory.

If it's easy to twist bars than to move sways then they will act as a spring. Considering it's rubber component (inside bushing) this will be interesting. As if bar is moveable, the rubber will wear out over time and result in different feel from sways.

 

[Tonkabob]

Lol, I was in Seattle last weekend. Would have picked it up then. I will PM you (let's check shipping cost on that). What's your advice on getting those (which ones should I get)? I think rear mid is important from your posts where your issues returned after taking those off. What about the rear lower?

Yeah i was trying to find you in old posts but couldnt so i just posted to the classifieds.
My hunch was the large hatch caused the flex so i did rear mid and rear. If i bought 2 again i would try front and rear mid.
Removing the rear mid brought back the squeeks and then i lubed the doors and its quiet again.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I am going with assumption that they don't move at all.

I'm going on the assumption that they are just very tight, but the weight of the car moves them, i.e. not "locked".

 

[Ruturaj]

Thankyou

Complete waste of time (I put to create new thread). My thread got merged here.

 

[itguy61]

Are you going to do the front?

 

[Ruturaj]

Are you going to do the front?

If you are asking me then not at first. Will try out rear only first.

 

[NS_Stinger]

Thicker bar is going to twist the chasis more especially when the bushings move freely. At least one other Stinger owner also confirmed their bushings were locked stock.
If you lube the upper hard rubber door seals the chasis flex squeeks go away.
The upgrade is amazing just do it.

I don't follow, are you referring to the fact that the Eibach bushing brackets have a slot versus a drilled hole where they attach to the chassis? If so it doesnt matter as long as you torque down those bolts, the brackets arent going to slide up and down. The ends of the bar are connected to endlinks that allow movement.

 

[Tonkabob]

I don't follow, are you referring to the fact that the Eibach bushing brackets have a slot versus a drilled hole where they attach to the chassis? If so it doesnt matter as long as you torque down those bolts, the brackets arent going to slide up and down. The ends of the bar are connected to endlinks that allow movement.

Sway bars work by transferimg force to the other sides end link. This is a twisting force on the chasis and is increased with the thicker bars.

 

[AV8R]

Complete waste of time (I put to create new thread). My thread got merged here.

It would do if it related to the original thread.

 

[itguy61]

I don't follow, are you referring to the fact that the Eibach bushing brackets have a slot versus a drilled hole where they attach to the chassis? If so it doesnt matter as long as you torque down those bolts, the brackets arent going to slide up and down. The ends of the bar are connected to endlinks that allow movement.

Are you going to add the front or just stay with the rear?

 

[Ruturaj]

Using the work 'locked' to begin with is just wrong.

Two small flexible rubber locator bushings, on a steel sway bar secured to the chassis with U clamps, are not going to significantly inhibit the torsional force at work on that bar from the continuous vertical movements and lateral weight transfer of a 4000 lb. car.

There is no possible way those would immobilize the sway bar from twisting as per its design purpose, and turn the sway bar ends into independent 'springs'.

Thats what i thought but did the install myself. Locked solid. Front pivoted as all sway bars do.

I'm going on the assumption that they are just very tight, but the weight of the car moves them, i.e. not "locked".

There is one way to settle this/get to the bottom of this. Lift the car with stock sways, detach them from end links, apply enough force on one side to either twist or move.

 

[NS_Stinger]

Are you going to add the front or just stay with the rear?

Just sticking with the rear, I'm happy with how it handles as is.

 

[Handsomej81]

Question - I purchased eibach front and rear sway bars & will be delivered in June. I mentioned this to a fellow stinger owner and they said, to get the adjustable endlinks as well and do them both at the same time. That this is my daily driver, I really dont want to get them because 'adjustable' to me means extra maintenance & i just dont know enough about them. In addition to warranty issues an adjustable endlink may create (i think)..

what are you experiences? Has the dealership voiced any concerns about suspension upgrades?