I didn't get that conclusion. Maybe I missed that assertion? Anyway, my understanding is that AWD or RWD, a rear sway bar upgrade reduces understeer; which I definitely can use (having experienced understeer prior to the rear sway bar several times; and I don't like it). Putting a stiffer front sway bar on tends to return understeer; but might improve handling in all other ways: so then you put the rear bar on "stiff" and return to less understeer, but now the ride might be harsher than you want. And playing with these bars, on or off, one or both, soft or stiff, is what this conversation is all about.
It still has way less understeer than the factory bars did probably due to the rear bar being a bigger increase in stiffness vs the front bar. I think the front bar only increases stiffness like 35- 40 percent and the rear almost 80 percent. The car actually oversteered with just the rear and it set on firm. Might be different on AWD model, I have not driven one to compare the handling balance.
There are 8 different combinations you can do with these:
front only 2 settings
Rear only 2 settings
both bars 4 settings.
Do definitely opportunities to tinker and compare!
It still has way less understeer than the factory bars did probably due to the rear bar being a bigger increase in stiffness vs the front bar. I think the front bar only increases stiffness like 35- 40 percent and the rear almost 80 percent. The car actually oversteered with just the rear and it set on firm. Might be different on AWD model, I have not driven one to compare the handling balance.
There are 8 different combinations you can do with these:
front only 2 settings
Rear only 2 settings
both bars 4 settings.
Do definitely opportunities to tinker and compare!
The AWD and RWD handle very differently, mostly about oversteer as that depends on power going to all 4 wheels vs just rear. I think rear only on AWD will give same oversteer as RWD with both. That's theoretical assumption.
I said around $150; that's total with tax and "misc. charges". My rear bar was put in at a few minutes over an hour; but they charged for one hour, which is evidently c. $123/hr. I haven't seen $80/hr in years.
The rate at this dealership is 120/hr. They told me charges would be 140 for rear and 140 for front. I told them to just do rear. Dealer told me suspension warranty will be voided.
The rate at this dealership is 120/hr. They told me charges would be 140 for rear and 140 for front. I told them to just do rear. Dealer told me suspension warranty will be voided.
The rate at this dealership is 120/hr. They told me charges would be 140 for rear and 140 for front. I told them to just do rear. Dealer told me suspension warranty will be voided.
They are making money so I don't see why would they. I think they just being safe on there side for liability reasons or they just not aware (like most dealers).
Yes, I do believe they will have to prove it but when it goes to court (because dealers will keep being jerk and since its not there liability, it's Kia's). I assume small court would resolve this without lawyers.
They are making money so I don't see why would they. I think they just being safe on there side for liability reasons or they just not aware (like most dealers).
Yes, I do believe they will have to prove it but when it goes to court (because dealers will keep being jerk and since its not there liability, it's Kia's). I assume small court would resolve this without lawyers.
The dealers don't care about a job that gives them a couple hours worth of work. They make their money on selling heavily marked up OEM parts and installing those. Most dealers dont want to get their hands dirty trying to fit aftermarket parts that a client bought somewhere else.
The dealers don't care about a job that gives them a couple hours worth of work. They make their money on selling heavily marked up OEM parts and installing those. Most dealers dont want to get their hands dirty trying to fit aftermarket parts that a client bought somewhere else.
THe front is the easiest as they can just thread through but some drop the front end suspension. The back is way harder but you dont need to drop diff, just be sure there are sufficient clearances from any bits like the fuel filler tube and definitely make sure they lube the bushes with supplied grease. If a dealer installs them then warranty is not voided. My dealer did mine and no issues. When you get the box there are instructions so make sure they read them before install. I can tell you that you will most likely end up getting both installed. With the Stinger , 2 local installers said its not a good idea to only fit one as it adds twist to frame due to differing strengths in bars. It can be done though but be wary.
THe front is the easiest as they can just thread through but some drop the front end suspension. The back is way harder but you dont need to drop diff, just be sure there are sufficient clearances from any bits like the fuel filler tube and definitely make sure they lube the bushes with supplied grease. If a dealer installs them then warranty is not voided. My dealer did mine and no issues. When you get the box there are instructions so make sure they read them before install. I can tell you that you will most likely end up getting both installed. With the Stinger , 2 local installers said its not a good idea to only fit one as it adds twist to frame due to differing strengths in bars. It can be done though but be wary.
THe front is the easiest as they can just thread through but some drop the front end suspension. The back is way harder but you dont need to drop diff, just be sure there are sufficient clearances from any bits like the fuel filler tube and definitely make sure they lube the bushes with supplied grease. If a dealer installs them then warranty is not voided. My dealer did mine and no issues. When you get the box there are instructions so make sure they read them before install. I can tell you that you will most likely end up getting both installed. With the Stinger , 2 local installers said its not a good idea to only fit one as it adds twist to frame due to differing strengths in bars. It can be done though but be wary.
I am planning to do rear only on soft at first then both on soft and then front on soft and rear on hard. Just to find out what I like the best and what works out (without any issue). I want to change characteristic of my car to be like RWD (slight oversteer) for fun but if it can wary then I might drop the idea.
The dealer mechanic had no idea I assume. I told him many did install one without taking anything off except bolts on sway, showed them YouTube video of rear install but they said it's not possible, try other places. I am gonna find a better mechanic in the area. The dealer told me it would void suspension warranty, I am not worried if does or not.
Though I do not know everything, I knew eibach sways are good upgrade. And I did learn it from you and other guys here. I got frustrated when I got a reply that seemed irrelevant to current topic (which wasn't about upgrading or not upgrading eibach sways, it was about if stock sways are locked, if they are how that affects the upgrade). I am sorry that I didn't put it in good words and you felt offended.
I have learned a lot (about aquariums, bodybuilding, cars, mountain biking) from forums and I do much appreciate the community.
Still i cant believe in this thread alone there has been over 250 posts. Even experts will be more experts after this ever finishes up. ground hog day lol.
Still i cant believe in this thread alone there has been over 250 posts. Even experts will be more experts after this ever finishes up. ground hog day lol.
AWD cars will tend to push wide in corners (particularly early during cornering, with a transition to rear-biased oversteer as power is applied), a front swaybar can accentuate the initial "plough" (straight ahead) understeer.
I got to do an almost unimpeded run on "my skid pad" (the cloverleaf). I had prepared well in advance; TSC off, in Sport mode, manual gate, G meter displayed. This time I held to the outside of the cloverleaf until I deemed that the final part of it was allowing me to cut to a late apex and, being AWD, power out late from that apex. The G meter showed a solid .8 G and I was in 5th gear using throttle to increase my speed. Had freeway traffic in the right lane not been right there, I would have pushed even harder on the exit. But I felt that alarming motorists as I burst up from below into full view roaring past them was not a good move. So I backed off. But I was encouraged by that .8 G. There was no understeer whatsoever and no tire noise, so I know I can push this for more.
I got eibach rear bars installed yesterday, haven't driven much till now. But stock ones seemed they were locked. I tried to rotate them in bracket at home, they bent a little but did not move. Looking at where they go in bracket, they seem like they were not intended to move. Lootk at that rubber like section on sway.
Taking out the rear bar is not difficult once unbolted, it comes out the driver side real easy. The difficulty is the small space to work on tightening up the driver side bracket. Once you have done it once and have the tools, it's not difficult to do. Don't need to drop the differential at all. They just want to make more money.
Taking out the rear bar is not difficult once unbolted, it comes out the driver side real easy. The difficulty is the small space to work on tightening up the driver side bracket. Once you have done it once and have the tools, it's not difficult to do. Don't need to drop the differential at all. They just want to make more money.
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