Who else has had warped rotors?

[itguy61]

It’s the cheap ass rotors. These cars are to heavy for these rotors.Burned my rotors and pads to nothing by 11000 miles. Got all new rotors and pads all the way around last week. Even the kia tech told me to switch to after market rotors when these take a crap.also changed brake fluid to 100% synthetic Castrol fluid higher boiling point helps with brake fade and cooling.

What does burned your rotors mean? If you mean vibration then it was probably brake pad deposits on the rotors. I have stock rotors on aftermarket pads and no issues at 6000 miles on them.

 

[Fl stingergt]

I mean the rotors where toast paper thin and pads where down to nothing.

When you have a hire hp car and weighs over four thousand pounds rotors are a weak point where kia saved some money buy going cheap on the rotors. If you drive aggressively a lot with this car brakes are going to go quick. If you drive very easy on it they might last into the 20000 mile range.

When you have a car capable of 0 to 60 times sub 4 sec. you need entire brake system to match. They tried with the brembo calipers and pads but failed with cheap rotors.

Look at the heavy Dodge Charger and Challenger. I have friends with those cars know problems with brakes because they put proper pads rotors calipers etc. those cars are 4500 pounds plus.

 

[Manaz]

I mean the rotors where toast paper thin and pads where down to nothing.

The rotors had worn to below minimum thickness? Did you get a measurement on them?

 

[Ucinn]

What brand did you go with?

 

[turboAWD]

Look at the heavy Dodge Charger and Challenger. I have friends with those cars know problems with brakes because they put proper pads rotors calipers etc. those cars are 4500 pounds plus.

Wish they'd put those better pads/rotors/calipers on their minivans. I know they upgraded, and our '15 Town and Country is way better than our '08, but still not perfect - heat up the pads a bit, and TONS of pulsating. The '08 was horrendous. Replaced pads/rotors with top-of-the-line Raybestos all around, and problem solved for good on the '08. The '15 is tolerable, and I don't have to drive it as often..

Yeah, it may be a bit of both. However, it CAN often be fixed just with pads - that's what worked on the 4th gen Legacy GT. LOTS of brake pad deposits with OEM pads. To the point that I drove like 20k miles with OEM pads, 125K miles with aftermarket. Someone was kind enough to mail their old OEM pads to Carbotech - I'm hoping they can certify some Bobcat pads for the street, some race pads for the track in the next few months, and then I can switch to those..

 

[Hydrajin]

The rear brakes are vented? You do know that the rear fender "vent" is fake?

Vented disc not solid disc

 

[Fl stingergt]

I don’t understand why you guys keep harping on brake pads. These are very good brake pads made by brembo . You can put whatever the best brake pads you want on this car and the rotors are still crap. I mean they are a cheaply made rotor made out of cheap steal and other medals that can not handle the heat and friction and pressure these calipers put on them period. Good rotors just for the front run from 400 to 1000 dollars.the stock replacement rotors are 60 dollars aside. The calipers alone are over a grand . I mean that should tell you the problem right there.

 

[itguy61]

Sorry I have to call you out. Front stock rotors are over $100 each. You can look it up online. I bought them online at a discount and they were still $100 each. Secondly, the reason people talk about he pads is that most of who have replaced them have eliminated the problem, even with stock rotors. Logical troubleshooting says at the very minimum new pads is a work around and at maximum that is the root cause issue. I have fixed my issue with $85 aftermarket pads. It makes practice sense to most people that if you can fix them for $100 then spending hundreds of dollars for new rotors and pads is not necessary, you get a low ROI.

Pad deposits on rotors signify problems with bond material in stock pads melting at too low of a temperature. That is why people are "harping" about brake pads. Go ahead and change your rotors out and keep stock pads, if the problem doesn't return Bravo! For those of us who don't need to spend that money to resolve the issue then pads are the magic arrow.

 

[MisterMac]

Three solutions are proven successful in remediating uneven rotor surfaces: higher quality rotors, different pad compounds, or a combination or both new pads and new rotors.

The pads are Brembo pads. There is no way the quality is sub par. The rotors are not Brembo. Kia cut a corner here. The stock rotors are as cheaply made as possible. Actual dealer cost, not the price they show you as their cost which includes an overhead factor, is less than $50.00 each.

While new pads is your ideal and least costly solution, that does not make it the best solution or the only solution.

 

[Helo58]

Considering all things, it could be the rotors. Maybe they don't absorb or dissipate heat that well. Maybe they could have benefited from some ducting for extra cooling. Maybe I will start taking temps of the rotors after I stop and keep a log. Of the entire system though, the rotors would be the hardest part to get wrong. It is conventional vented cast iron rotor design. Pretty simple. Most people have solved their problems with pads alone.

My problems seem to be gone for now. The rotors have been hot and/or wet when parked a few times now with no further occurrences. Be sure that I will update my posts if the issue returns.

 

[robz32]

Considering all things, it could be the rotors. Maybe they don't absorb or dissipate heat that well. Maybe they could have benefited from some ducting for extra cooling. Maybe I will start taking temps of the rotors after I stop and keep a log. Of the entire system though, the rotors would be the hardest part to get wrong. It is conventional vented cast iron rotor design. Pretty simple. Most people have solved their problems with pads alone.

My problems seem to be gone for now. The rotors have been hot and/or wet when parked a few times now with no further occurrences. Be sure that I will update my posts if the issue returns.

Agree with you on the disks being the hardest part to get wrong, but its happened before, and that is part of the reason I went with the drilled and slotted option. So far 2k miles on the set up and no problems, and we've had 98F+ temps here everyday, very little rain.

 

[Helo58]

@robz32 , glad to hear you are at 2k with no issues. Currently I am riding with no issues. Did you go with the "curved slots & double drilled" option on Khartunerz? Any reason that you chose these over the dimpled/slotted choices? Have you posted any pics of your setup? If yes, I will search and find. How are you on brake dusting with the new setup?

 

[robz32]

Yes, I've posted photos of the setup here and everything done.
Dusting is slightly less than with the factory pads, in two weeks without washing the car with the aftermarket setup, the wheels had accumulated as much brake dust as they did with the factory setup in one week. Driving habits remain the same as well as routes, as I use the Stinger mainly to commute to work.

 

[MerlintheMad]

Agree with you on the disks being the hardest part to get wrong, but its happened before, and that is part of the reason I went with the drilled and slotted option. So far 2k miles on the set up and no problems, and we've had 98F+ temps here everyday, very little rain.

This makes no logical sense to me. Any dangerous temperatures to rotors would be well in excess of 1000F degrees. The ambient air temperature would make virtually ZERO difference.

 

[robz32]

Merlin, we are not saying the disk will fail. The disk not being able to dissipate heat properly means that the pads will reach its proper operating temperature quicker (which is very low on street pads) and then surpass it as well causing brake fading much quicker and diminishing the life of the pad. At the same time the lack of proper heat dissipation and elevated temperatures from the disk means that pads deposits are more likely to get stuck on the disk due to the elevated temperatures. Ambient temperatures do play a roll on the cooling side, especially is the disk suffers from bad heat dissipation/cooling.

 

[Hydrajin]

Agree with cause pointing to rotors, design is simple, casting is simple, heat treatment is not simple. If the pads are indeed brembo made, chances of an issue there are extremely slim, the company is built entirely on providing top notch braking systems. Kia makes full cars, more room for error and miscalculation when dealing with entire vehicle design and fabrication compared to only design and fabrication of a subcomponent of the vehicle. But like others have said, anything is possible . Going aftermarket all the way, not taking chances with OEM rotors and supplied pads; OEM parts ain't exactly cheap to experiment with. I just wish someone would make or cross reference a rear pad already -_-'

 

[Helo58]

Agree with cause pointing to rotors, design is simple, casting is simple, heat treatment is not simple. If the pads are indeed brembo made, chances of an issue there are extremely slim, the company is built entirely on providing top notch braking systems. Kia makes full cars, more room for error and miscalculation when dealing with entire vehicle design and fabrication compared to only design and fabrication of a subcomponent of the vehicle. But like others have said, anything is possible . Going aftermarket all the way, not taking chances with OEM rotors and supplied pads; OEM parts ain't exactly cheap to experiment with. I just wish someone would make or cross reference a rear pad already -_-'

When you say heat treatment, are you referring to profiling?

 

[MerlintheMad]

Merlin, we are not saying the disk will fail. The disk not being able to dissipate heat properly means that the pads will reach its proper operating temperature quicker (which is very low on street pads) and then surpass it as well causing brake fading much quicker and diminishing the life of the pad. At the same time the lack of proper heat dissipation and elevated temperatures from the disk means that pads deposits are more likely to get stuck on the disk due to the elevated temperatures. Ambient temperatures do play a roll on the cooling side, especially is the disk suffers from bad heat dissipation/cooling.

Ambient temperature might make a range difference of c. 70F degrees. I don't see the nicety of this narrow "window" having any practical effect on overheated brakes. 70F cooler or hotter isn't going to be noticeable hooning around.

If the pads are indeed brembo made, chances of an issue there are extremely slim, the company is built entirely on providing top notch braking systems.

Last year's conversations about the Stinger's brakes were saying that the pads are not Brembo. The Speed Week Stinger's pads faded and Kia sent a new set of European spec pads for the rest of the track tests. If the OE pads in the US were Brembo I doubt there would have been a fade problem.

 

[MisterMac]

Ambient temperature might make a range difference of c. 70F degrees. I don't see the nicety of this narrow "window" having any practical effect on overheated brakes. 70F cooler or hotter isn't going to be noticeable hooning around.

Last year's conversations about the Stinger's brakes were saying that the pads are not Brembo. The Speed Week Stinger's pads faded and Kia sent a new set of European spec pads for the rest of the track tests. If the OE pads in the US were Brembo I doubt there would have been a fade problem.

My pads were clearly stamped BREMBO

 

[robz32]

Pads are Brembo, once you replace them you will see the stamp on the back of them.

70F degrees cooler or hotter is quite a big noticeable difference when it comes to brakes. Hooning or not.
Try braking hard as soon as you take the car out for its first drive, cold brakes. Then try doing the same once the brakes are on their operating temperature (above 70F degrees).