What’s the trick to remove rear rotors.

[Stingah]

Gratz! Glad you figured it out. And I had no idea the rotor and drum were a single unit, learn something new every day!

Yes, I was surprised too. Here's a pic for reference, you can see the the shoes and the adjustment screw at the top.

 

[Stingah]

So what pads are you swapping to?

Cquence group buy didn't have rear available, so keeping them stock. Popular opinion is that should be fine for rear.

 

[Toddasaurus]

Reviving an old, dead thread.

Anybody else have any pointers/experience actually removing the rear rotors?

I've pounded the absolute SH** out of these bad boys, using the method @stEgr described, along with every other way I can think of - and those things WILL NOT BUDGE. Not even the slightest!!! I'm using a 2.5 lb mini sledge hammer.

And before anyone asks - YES THE EBRAKE IS OFF. I HAVE TRIPLE CHECKED AND VERIFIED 100% THAT THE EBRAKE IS OFF. Yes, the caliper is off. Yes, the rotor screws are off. And...wait...yup.....THE EBRAKE IS OFF. Lol.

 

[oddball]

I used a regular hammer, but it dented the rotors pretty bad getting them to come loose. It was a bit of a battle. Hit from the back.

The screw holes in the rotor are actually threaded, so you can use a large bolt puller. Grab a steering wheel and/or harmonic balancer puller from the parts store loan-a-tool pile.

Is the ebrake off?

 

[NS_Stinger]

Reviving an old, dead thread.

Anybody else have any pointers/experience actually removing the rear rotors?

I've pounded the absolute SH** out of these bad boys, using the method @stEgr described, along with every other way I can think of - and those things WILL NOT BUDGE. Not even the slightest!!! I'm using a 2.5 lb mini sledge hammer.

And before anyone asks - YES THE EBRAKE IS OFF. I HAVE TRIPLE CHECKED AND VERIFIED 100% THAT THE EBRAKE IS OFF. Yes, the caliper is off. Yes, the rotor screws are off. And...wait...yup.....THE EBRAKE IS OFF.

Did you try spraying some wd-40 or penetrating fluid in and around the base of the studs and the hub?

 

[Toddasaurus]

Did you try spraying some wd-40 or penetrating fluid in and around the base of the studs and the hub?

Don't need to. I figured it out. Lol. Forget the hammer, you gotta use some leverage instead. Wedge a wrench or something in-between the rotor and the caliper mounting points on the spindle, then knock it forward and/or backward.

I made a video.

 

[CKeeler]

I used a 2x4 with a sledge and slammed it between the studs all around.

 

[Wan El Guapo]

Don't need to. I figured it out. Lol. Forget the hammer, you gotta use some leverage instead. Wedge a wrench or something in-between the rotor and the caliper mounting points on the spindle, then knock it forward and/or backward.

I made a video.

Thanks Todd. Great information. Thats why this forum is great. Otherwise there would be a whole bunch of Stingers and G70s stranded in their driveways.

 

[Robs GT]

All you have to do is install a bolt where the screws were ,I used one on each side the rotors just pop right off very easy, I'm pretty sure the bolt that holds your brake line right by the rotor is the same size bolt you need you can always take that one out and use it

 

[STINGER]

Don't need to. I figured it out. Lol. Forget the hammer, you gotta use some leverage instead. Wedge a wrench or something in-between the rotor and the caliper mounting points on the spindle, then knock it forward and/or backward.

I made a video.

Thanks for the video, very useful.

 

[Mewan]

Hey All. Just did the rotors on mine. There's actually a very easy "no hammer/knocking required" method.



You'll see that the holes where the 2x retainer screws come out of, are also threaded for M8 screws.



All you have to do is get a hold of 2x M8 screws. Thread them in to the holes making sure not to cross thread.

When you feel resistance you'll have to switch over to a ratcheting wrench. Keep turning in one at a time about 1/8 a turn each time.

The rotors will slowly back out as you thread in the screws. Very simple and ..."mechanically sympathetic"...

Happy to share some pictures of the process if my explanation isn't clear.

 

[44pirate]

Picture always help alot.

 

[Ah GetFd]

Yes there is a trick and it doesn't use wheel pullers or screws driven in to try and force a rotor off. That is absolutely the wrong way to do it.

1. Get a RUBBER mallet.

2. Hit one side of the rotor hitting the rotor IN towards the vehicle not out.

3. The opposite side of the rotor will move AWAY from the vehicle and the rotor will simply drop out.

Usually it will come off the very first time.

IF you do the opposite......for instance, if you try and drive the rotor out, or away from the vehicle with a hammer. mallet, force..... you will be driving the opposite side of the rotor IN making it harder or impossible to remove.

 

[Ninjawasaki]

View attachment 29211

Many thanks to all that replied. Combined everyone's suggestions and got it done this evening. While the front rotors practically fall off, the rears take a bit more finesse. To anyone struggling, here's some notes and what I ended up doing:

- Researched ebrake functionality, and confirmed the ebrake is indeed off if there is no indicator in the dash. Caution, sometimes it auto engages when in park, so double check no indicator light when in park.
- The ebrake shoes rest very close inside the hat, so close there is absolutely no play, at least in my case. Hitting the rotor does absolutely nothing except potential damage. Yanking, pulling, prying may not work at all.
- To compound the problem, the back side of the rotor is blocked by the heat shield except where the caliper lives, so you can only tap it with a mallet in the opening. And since there's no play in the rotor, hitting one end of the rotor just causes it to bit down more on the other end. And since rotor doesn't spin, so you're stuck hitting it in just one area. This method is futile.

- To nudge it out, I had to tap it loose by hitting opposite ends of the rotor back and forth repeatedly. Since rotor is blocked by the heat shield I stuck screw drivers into the center of the rotor, at 10 and 2 position, and hit them right above the rotor from the inside wheel well out. It's close quarters so take the time to be careful and not hit anything other than the screw drivers. I went back and forth, hitting each a couple times before moving to the other. You can check if there's movement by looking in the two little screw holes. If you see the gap widening you know you're doing it right.
After maybe 2-3 minutes the darn thing slipped off.

Here's what the setup looked like:
View attachment 29210

Appreciate all the input and knowledge sharing. Good luck to those attempting rears hopefully your situation is a lot less hassle.

Dude, thankyou so much for posting this lol, saved me today.

 

[Danny5]

I pounded the shit out of the rotor with a mini-sledge. They were going in the trash anyways.

 

[ht_addict]

4LB mini sledge worked just fine. 2 wacks and it was off.