Used stinger broke down a day after buying!

[stingerstevo]

No. When I test drove it we didn’t really take any roads where I could go fast.

I should also note that the rattle didn’t happen in park and you could only hear it inside the car when accelerating. And it’s only really heard from the drivers side.

I hate it when they ride along and keep you on roads where you can't really open it up. The best thing about the pandemic was the salesperson didn't ride along when you did a test drive. I test drove so many cars and felt sick from all that adrenaline on more then one occasion. Sorry to hear about your car.

 

[Deviate]

The ecu is up near the fire wall on the drivers side. If it is loose that could have been you rattle. As for throwing codes the wire harness may be badly attached from a swap back to stock from the previous owner who may have had an ecu tune in it. The pedal commander thing is something to check as well just because. But taking your rattle into consideration and all the codes a connection issue may be the problem. I think its only 2 or 3 bolts that hold it in. Not 100% on how many

 

[Deviate]

And how much can a dealer bitch at you for wanting to check things on YOUR car? I did a full thermostat change years back in a dealers lot due to the wait time before they got to it. Its your ride not theirs

 

[stoopid]

It's your car/property, they can't deny you access to it. I'd recommend clearing all the codes and running the car for a bit, then even taking it out on the road for a quick loop around the block to see if the same thing happens (assuming clearing the codes actually works in restoring the car's willingness to move).

The good news is that the issue seems to be electrical in nature and not a piston/valve issue, etc. Driving it to figure things out shouldn't make matters any worse.

 

[JSolo]

Sorry for the OP's dilemma. It's annoying and frustrating when a new purchase fails immediately after purchase.

@stingerstevo Regarding test drives. If I'm serious about a car, I tell the sales person, we will be taking it on the highway, is there any issue? If there are, I walk out.

When I bought the stinger below, it had 12 miles on the odo when it came off the truck. My test drive lasted about 30 minutes and 24 miles. 36 on the odometer when I signed the paperwork. This was for a new vehicle. In addition to the test drive I had them put the car on the lift and remove the lower engine cover.

For a used car, the test drive would probably be longer and more aggressive - several full throttle runs, hard braking, quick direction changes, etc. Unless I was having a mechanic inspect it, I'd still demand to raise the car to inspect underside.

As the buyer, you have full control until you sign the paperwork. Then you are their b!tch.

 

[stingerwanter]

And how much can a dealer bitch at you for wanting to check things on YOUR car? I did a full thermostat change years back in a dealers lot due to the wait time before they got to it. Its your ride not theirs

It's your car/property, they can't deny you access to it.

This is my first nice car, my previous car was an old hyundai elantra that I never had to take in for anything. I was not sure how the warranty policies go/whether they can void warranty or deny repair if you mess with it.

 

[stoopid]

This is my first nice car, my previous car was an old hyundai elantra that I never had to take in for anything. I was not sure how the warranty policies go/whether they can void warranty or deny repair if you mess with it.

Using a standard obd scanner to read and clear codes has zero bearing on your warranty status. The techs at the dealer will end up doing the exact same thing once it hits their bay.

 

[boosted1g]

This is my first nice car, my previous car was an old hyundai elantra that I never had to take in for anything. I was not sure how the warranty policies go/whether they can void warranty or deny repair if you mess with it.

If the previous owner modified the car (and did not cover their tracks very well) then Kia can absolutely deny warranty on anything they can link to being a result of the aftermarket part.

Also, with Kia/Hyundai, if the car is not Certified Pre Owned then the powertrain warranty also ends with the bumper-2-bumper at 60k miles.

 

[stingerwanter]

If the previous owner modified the car (and did not cover their tracks very well) then Kia can absolutely deny warranty on anything they can link to being a result of the aftermarket part.

Also, with Kia/Hyundai, if the car is not Certified Pre Owned then the powertrain warranty also ends with the bumper-2-bumper at 60k miles.

It is not CPO.
Praying that is not the case. The dealership I bought it from told me it’s under warranty and that there were no aftermarket parts

 

[MerlintheMad]

These are good suggestions above. The very first thing you always check for when electrical stuff heads south is loose connections. I had a recent very unserious example of this: and @General_Vodka put me onto where to look for the loose connection (maybe he can be of assistance in this instance? "Calling the General"...). My issue was that the sending unit for the TPMS stopped communicating. The General said to remove the panel under the glove box and push every connector together: voila! my psi screen came back to life, and has functioned perfectly for over two months now . Hopefully, your issue is as easily rectified by pushing things back together.

 

[stingerwanter]

The good news is that the issue seems to be electrical in nature and not a piston/valve issue, etc. Driving it to figure things out shouldn't make matters any worse.

So they’d be cool with me just driving it out of their back lot then taking it back in? And also, I wouldn’t want to get into another situation where I have to be towed again because it will only go 7 mph.

(maybe he can be of assistance in this instance? "Calling the General"...)

@General_Vodka any assistance would be a blessing thank you
I hope it is just electrical. And hopefully that rattle thing from before is actually something rattling and not the turbo or something expensive.

Thanks to everyone for all of your help. I have to go to work now. Maybe I can try to head back over there and ask for the keys again to try a few things.

 

[boosted1g]

It is not CPO.
Praying that is not the case. The dealership I bought it from told me it’s under warranty and that there were no aftermarket parts

Which is about as reassuring as saying "my local politician said ....."
Never blindly trust the word of a dealership's sales team!

 

[stoopid]

So they’d be cool with me just driving it out of their back lot then taking it back in? And also, I wouldn’t want to get into another situation where I have to be towed again because it will only go 7 mph.

Just tell them you're clearing the codes and taking it 100 yards down the road. At worse, you go back into limp mode and drive it back with the hazards on, right? If you want your car back anytime soon, you're going to have to get engaged in fixing it.

But before even clearing codes, you should be checking all the connections as other members have advised. Or wait 2 weeks.

 

[stingerwanter]

Just tell them you're clearing the codes and taking it 100 yards down the road. At worse, you go back into limp mode and drive it back with the hazards on, right? If you want your car back anytime soon, you're going to have to get engaged in fixing it.

But before even clearing codes, you should be checking all the connections as other members have advised. Or wait 2 weeks.

Totally get it. Gonna head back over when I get the chance.

 

[bfglitch]

Totally get it. Gonna head back over when I get the chance.

Also if you are going to go to try that stuff out, I'd highly recommend checking some of the connections dealing with throttle/accelerator. If it's something as simple as a loose connection you'll wind up kicking yourself later...especially if you have to wait several days for them to even look at it.

 

[stingerwanter]

Quick question do these wiring things need to be done with the car off, and does it need to be off for a period of time? Just from experience with electrical/computer stuff it has to be off and grounded but, it’s a car so, IDK. Like I said I’m really new to the car scene.
@stoopid @bfglitch

 

[stoopid]

Off for most drivetrain related items is fine, some infotainment stuff stays on a bit after the car is off.

 

[General_Vodka]

So they’d be cool with me just driving it out of their back lot then taking it back in? And also, I wouldn’t want to get into another situation where I have to be towed again because it will only go 7 mph.

@General_Vodka any assistance would be a blessing thank you
I hope it is just electrical. And hopefully that rattle thing from before is actually something rattling and not the turbo or something expensive.

Thanks to everyone for all of your help. I have to go to work now. Maybe I can try to head back over there and ask for the keys again to try a few things.

Best bet is to check the ecu, tcu and the throttle connections. Car can be driven just fine with the forward collision system missing so its probably not that. I would also suggest the abs/srs module but thats buried deep in your center console. For sure the hardest to get to compared to the previously mentioned modules. Plus the srs almost never goes bad just by itself. Just by looking at the codes the throttle could be the cause of all of them.

 

[stingerwanter]

Best bet is to check the ecu, tcu and the throttle connections. Car can be driven just fine with the forward collision system missing so its probably not that. I would also suggest the abs/srs module but thats buried deep in your center console. For sure the hardest to get to compared to the previously mentioned modules. Plus the srs almost never goes bad just by itself. Just by looking at the codes the throttle could be the cause of all of them.

Thank you I will once they’re open tomorrow, do you know by chance how I can find out the locations of these modules/the connections that I should be checking? For some reason googling “ECU location” is not bringing up great results because im also not sure what it looks like

 

[Kamauxx]

Instead of trying all these little things to figure out why it's broke I'd be on the phone with the selling dealership demanding that they take the car back (towed back at their expense) and refund my money. Let them figure out what's wrong with your new broken car. They aren't rare. Find yourself one that works.