Used stinger broke down a day after buying!

[stingerwanter]

Hey all hoping for some help or guidance. Bought a 2018 GT2 AWD Stinger with 37k miles from a Hyundai dealership in Colorado. We live in Las Vegas so drove it back 12 hours. It made the drive back fine, other than a mild rattle coming from the drivers side engine, which increased with RPM. Idk if it was the turbo or what, but I scheduled an APPT at the Kia near me to get it checked out for Wednesday, assuming Under warranty.

While going on an on-ramp today, I accelerated and the thing immediately jerked and slowed down to 5 Mph and said “check forward collision system”. If anyone had been behind me I would have gotten seriously rear ended. A whole array of warning lights are on, check engine light, auto start/stop lights, triangle warning light, collision avoidance light, etc. the car will not go faster than 7 mph.

We are having it towed to the nearest Kia dealership. I don’t know if they are booked tomorrow maybe they’ll fit us in. Does anyone know what could be going on?

 

[Devin]

Sounds like the previous owner was a bit naughty. Did you buy it knowing it had a rattle that increased with higher RPMs?

 

[stingerwanter]

Sounds like the previous owner was a bit naughty. Did you buy it knowing it had a rattle that increased with higher RPMs?

No. When I test drove it we didn’t really take any roads where I could go fast.

I should also note that the rattle didn’t happen in park and you could only hear it inside the car when accelerating. And it’s only really heard from the drivers side.

 

[Rodtheviking]

Rodent damage, being from Colorado?

Rattle might be a heat shield, I'm guessing that PO removed some stuff prior to selling and didn't put stuff back properly.

But that's on the dealership for not checking the car properly before selling it. Contact them and get your money back if that's an option?

 

[General_Vodka]

Yours has the radar sensor in the front correct? Wonder if the plug or wire harness to it was damaged. Then again, I have driven mine with it completely unplugged and it had no problem going over 10mph.

 

[stoopid]

Can't help with your issue, but please check back and let us know how the dealer was (and of course whether you'd recommend them). I haven't needed warranty work yet but not looking forward to when I eventually will, most Kia dealers aren't very good.

 

[stingerwanter]

But that's on the dealership for not checking the car properly before selling it. Contact them and get your money back if that's an option?

As it’s a used car I don’t know that it’s an option.

Yours has the radar sensor in the front correct? Wonder if the plug or wire harness to it was damaged. Then again, I have driven mine with it completely unplugged and it had no problem going over 10mph.

I’m not sure how it all works. All I know is the central cluster was filled with lights and the engine was in some sort of emergency mode because you would full press the pedal and it would go 7 mph.

This happens even once I got it towed to the Kia dealership when you start it it says check forward collision system and there’s a ****load of warning lights, some seemingly unrelated.

Whether the slight rattle I heard during the road trip was connected to this, IDK.

 

[stingerwanter]

FYI the car sent my phone Some sort of diagnostic. But completely useless. All unknown.

 

[Cosmo]

Check to see if the recalls have been done? One of them scram'd the computer, lit up the dash and put the car into limp mode.
Plug the VIN into a NHTSA recall checker.

 

[stingerwanter]

Check to see if the recalls have been done? One of them scram'd the computer, lit up the dash and put the car into limp mode.
Plug the VIN into a NHTSA recall checker.

No recalls apparently.

 

[General_Vodka]

FYI the car sent my phone Some sort of diagnostic. But completely useless. All unknown.

Yeah the on board diagnostics is trash. Need an actual code reader to get real info. Now I really wanna know what the dealer finds.

 

[stingerwanter]

Update: Every Kia dealership in town (Las Vegas) is booked 2 weeks out. I feel helpless. I have no car, I can't get to work or do anything. They said it will be 10 days before they even look at it.

 

[Rodtheviking]

Go to local auto parts store and buy a code reader, at least get a look at the codes.

Sucks..

 

[boosted1g]

That sucks man, i hope it is just a bad sensor connection or something easy enough to fix.

If KIA finds anything sketchy, I would make every attempt possible to return it to the dealer.
Even if the car is not CPO, Hyundai should have still done a basic inspection on it. So they would have known if it was previously wrecked or anything semi-oblivious was tampered with.

 

[MerlintheMad]

Weary them with your importuning (nagging), "squeaky wheel" and all that. This is not a time to remain demurely in the back of some danged que: they sold you a bunged up car!

Welcome to you (and your nightmare) regardless.

 

[Deviate]

Weary them with your importuning (nagging), "squeaky wheel" and all that. This is not a time to remain demurely in the back of some danged que: they sold you a bunged up car!

Welcome to you (and your nightmare) regardless.

Yoda???


In all seriousness to the OP definitely start hounding the dealer you got it from. And keep us all updated please.

Hate to hear whats happened

 

[MerlintheMad]

Yoda???

Eh? More Alice Cooper.

 

[stingerwanter]

Hi all. I got them to let me borrow the keys. I have never done the code reading before so I am going to paste what the app gave me. Basically I clicked "diagnostic error codes" in the "Car Scanner ELM OBD2" iPhone app, using a "Veepeak OBDCheck BLE Bluetooth OBD II Scanner" I bought off Amazon. I checked all the boxes and hit "Read" and it took about 4-5 minutes.

Car Scanner ELM OBD2
DTC report
Selected brand: Kia
VIN:

============1==============
P0123
Raw code: 0123
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Throttle position (TP) switch A/accelerator pedal position (APP) switch A - high input

============2==============
P0221
Raw code: 0221
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Throttle position (TP) sensor B/accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor B - range/performance problem

============3==============
P0223
Raw code: 0223
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Throttle position (TP) sensor B/accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor B - high input

============4==============
P2101
Raw code: 2101
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Throttle actuator control (TAC) motor - range/performance problem

============5==============
P0222
Raw code: 0222
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending
OBDII: Throttle position (TP) sensor B/accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor B - low input

============6==============
P0221(00)
Raw code: 022100
ECU: Engine control unit[Archive (inactive)]
Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
OBDII: Throttle position (TP) sensor B/accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor B - range/performance problem

============7==============
P0123(00)
Raw code: 012300
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Warning indicator requested
OBDII: Throttle position (TP) switch A/accelerator pedal position (APP) switch A - high input

============8==============
P0222(00)
Raw code: 022200
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Warning indicator requested
OBDII: Throttle position (TP) sensor B/accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor B - low input

============9==============
P2101(00)
Raw code: 210100
ECU: Engine control unit[Archive (inactive)]
Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
OBDII: Throttle actuator control (TAC) motor - range/performance problem

============10==============
P0221(00)
Raw code: 022100
ECU: Engine control unit[Archive (inactive)]
Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
OBDII: Throttle position (TP) sensor B/accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor B - range/performance problem

============11==============
P0123(00)
Raw code: 012300
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Warning indicator requested
OBDII: Throttle position (TP) switch A/accelerator pedal position (APP) switch A - high input

============12==============
P0222(00)
Raw code: 022200
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Warning indicator requested
OBDII: Throttle position (TP) sensor B/accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor B - low input

============13==============
P2101(00)
Raw code: 210100
ECU: Engine control unit[Archive (inactive)]
Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
OBDII: Throttle actuator control (TAC) motor - range/performance problem

============14==============
C1360(81)
Raw code: 536081
ECU: Adaptive cruise-control
Status: Test failed, Confirmed, Warning indicator requested

============15==============
C1613(81)
Raw code: 561381
ECU: Adaptive cruise-control[Archive (inactive)]
Status: Confirmed

============16==============
C2229(08)
Raw code: 622908
ECU: ABS control unit
Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Confirmed, Warning indicator requested

============17==============
C1649(08)
Raw code: 564908
ECU: ABS control unit
Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Confirmed, Warning indicator requested

============18==============
C1613(86)
Raw code: 561386
ECU: Suspension[Archive (inactive)]
Status: Confirmed

============19==============
C1613(86)
Raw code: 561386
ECU: Lane assistance/Front view camera[Archive (inactive)]
Status: Confirmed

Also here is a pic of the speedometer.

 

[boosted1g]

Wondering if perhaps the old owner had a pedal commander type of device plugged in, and now you are getting poor electrical connection.

Check the wires at the pedal.

Also, make sure the the throttle body wiring is plugged in good.

 

[stingerwanter]

Wondering if perhaps the old user had a pedal commander type of device plugged in, and now you are getting poor electrical connection.

Check the wires at the pedal.

Also, make sure the the throttle body wiring is plugged in good.

FYI I just borrowed the keys to run the scan and left. I don't know that I'll get the chance to do all that with them standing around. The dealership is across town like 30 minutes away. I tried to be nice to the guy but I guess they are busy. But hey, it was the best looking car in the lot next to a bunch of Kia Souls and Optimas