Today's project upper rear adjustable camber arms install

[rcorona]

Won't fix the unbalanced level issue check your spring placement for that make sure there seated in the pocket. The adjustable toe and camber just allowed you to zero things out that the factory settings won't

Gotcha. I just talked with the shop that installed my springs and they said that with springs you may never really sit perfectly level. Bringing my car by tomorrow for them to double check everything is seated properly. Thanks for the info!

Here's my next question, are the camber/toe arms necessary with a lowered stinger? I've been driving it lowered for about 3 months now. Aligned as close as they can to OEM.

 

[Rodtheviking]

Gotcha. I just talked with the shop that installed my springs and they said that with springs you may never really sit perfectly level. Bringing my car by tomorrow for them to double check everything is seated properly. Thanks for the info!

Here's my next question, are the camber/toe arms necessary with a lowered stinger? I've been driving it lowered for about 3 months now. Aligned as close as they can to OEM.

I would do at least the camber arms. I will be doing the toe arms soon, I hope it helps with the rear wheel hop, that's really getting annoying.

 

[rcorona]

I would do at least the camber arms. I will be doing the toe arms soon, I hope it helps with the rear wheel hop, that's really getting annoying.

So its fine to do just the camber arms for now, no need to do both at the same time? I'm guessing so since even with OEM components nothing critical is going wrong.

 

[SRV]

So its fine to do just the camber arms for now, no need to do both at the same time? I'm guessing so since even with OEM components nothing critical is going wrong.

No.

According to everything I've read, both camber and toe arms should be changed to ensure a correct alignment.

 

[Rodtheviking]

I did and didn't/don't have any issues.

 

[Schroedes]

I had to get camber and toe arms after lowering... Couldn't get it aligned

 

[SRV]

I had to get camber and toe arms after lowering... Couldn't get it aligned

Just to be clear - were you able to get it aligned after installing the camber and toe arms?

 

[Schroedes]

Just to be clear - were you able to get it aligned after installing the camber and toe arms?

Yessir.. Adjustable end links next

 

[SRV]

Yessir.. Adjustable end links next

Thanks for the clarification.

So again, in order to be 100% sure the car can be aligned after installing lowering springs, get the camber and toe arms too.

 

[n1sm0__]

Reviving this old thread to get insight on long term use of the Megan arms. I take it no one has had a snapped arm as of yet otherwise I would have read it somewhere. Also you guys are needing to put arms with lowering springs??? I was gonna go that route to AVOID having to buy new arms.

 

[rcorona]

Reviving this old thread to get insight on long term use of the Megan arms. I take it no one has had a snapped arm as of yet otherwise I would have read it somewhere. Also you guys are needing to put arms with lowering springs??? I was gonna go that route to AVOID having to buy new arms.

My car is lowered on eibach springs. So I got the camber and toe arms because the alignment shops I was taking my car to were having some trouble. Then I noticed my car was riding rougher, not as compliant, would have a shimmy in the rear when going over bumps/cracks/imperfections in the road. I found a great shop in my area and take the stinger there for everything except warranty work. Told them about the shimmy and they recommended I take the Megan arms off. They took them off and the issue was fixed. No shimmy. And they do a great alignment and have had no issues.

I guess my recommendation would be to try to find a great shop first. One that works on fast/modified/high end cars. Then if all else fails get the arms…

 

[Volfy]

Reviving this old thread to get insight on long term use of the Megan arms. I take it no one has had a snapped arm as of yet otherwise I would have read it somewhere. Also you guys are needing to put arms with lowering springs??? I was gonna go that route to AVOID having to buy new arms.

The answer is... it depends on how much you lower the ride height.

If you keep the drop modest, say 1.25" or less, then quite likely your stock rear camber eccentric bolt could still have enough adjustment range to keep it within spec. Even if your lowering amount requires the Megan camber arm for additional adjustment range, you should have the alignment shop max out the stock eccentric bolt, before dipping into the Megan camber arm adjustment. This way, the impact on toe adjustment is kept at a minimum, and the stock toe eccentric bolt should still have enough range to compensate.

We have gone from Eibach to coilovers on both our G70 and Stinger 2.5T. Rear camber on the G70 is set at 1.5deg, without needing Megan arms. Stinger is teeter tottering on needing them. I'm still playing with the ride height to see what works best at the track. More lowering does not equal better handling, beyond a certain point. Too much of it, and your camber and toe gains at full compression start to go out of whack. And jacking too much with the stock link geometries to get a satisfactory static alignment readings might end up messing up your dynamics camber and toe gains.

 

[n1sm0__]

My car is lowered on eibach springs. So I got the camber and toe arms because the alignment shops I was taking my car to were having some trouble. Then I noticed my car was riding rougher, not as compliant, would have a shimmy in the rear when going over bumps/cracks/imperfections in the road. I found a great shop in my area and take the stinger there for everything except warranty work. Told them about the shimmy and they recommended I take the Megan arms off. They took them off and the issue was fixed. No shimmy. And they do a great alignment and have had no issues.

I guess my recommendation would be to try to find a great shop first. One that works on fast/modified/high end cars. Then if all else fails get the arms…

Ight sick, thankfully I know a shop already from my Lexus days. I am not going too crazy, just Euro spec H&Rs till I blow the factory struts out and then I'll do full on coils.
Yeah I know about the shimmy issue with my 2GS, ended up switching lower arms to 326 and it cooperated. I won't throw all the blame on them since that car was also slammed to all hell and cambered out, never again.

 

[n1sm0__]

The answer is... it depends on how much you lower the ride height.

If you keep the drop modest, say 1.25" or less, then quite likely your stock rear camber eccentric bolt could still have enough adjustment range to keep it within spec. Even if your lowering amount requires the Megan camber arm for additional adjustment range, you should have the alignment shop max out the stock eccentric bolt, before dipping into the Megan camber arm adjustment. This way, the impact on toe adjustment is kept at a minimum, and the stock toe eccentric bolt should still have enough range to compensate.

We have gone from Eibach to coilovers on both our G70 and Stinger 2.5T. Rear camber on the G70 is set at 1.5deg, without needing Megan arms. Stinger is teeter tottering on needing them. I'm still playing with the ride height to see what works best at the track. More lowering does not equal better handling, beyond a certain point. Too much of it, and your camber and toe gains at full compression start to go out of whack. And jacking too much with the stock link geometries to get a satisfactory static alignment readings might end up messing up your dynamics camber and toe gains.

Yeah i'll be fine, I just want to go H&R lowering springs and i think they max out at an inch. I don't mind a little bit of camber, I used to run crazy amount in my 2GS days, so I'm familiar in that aspect

 

[socalvn]

I have full Megan racing arms. My stock eccentric camber and toe bolts are set to factory specs and the car was aligned with the Megan racing arms. No shimmy whatsoever, it does not follow the road groves drives perfectly straight hands off.
If you were getting shimmy that's from something else besides the arms, the way it was aligned. I've been on both springs and now coilovers.
And wouldn't even consider removing the Megan arms.
Remember when installing the arms you want to tighten them down under preload.

 

[NYC_STINGER]

How do you adjust the factory eccentric bolt on the rear? Any pics?

 

[NYC_STINGER]

I can't seem to find this when I am looking at the car with my wheel off

 

[Volfy]

Here you go. They are practically staring at ya. The bottom ones are the camber bolts.

 

[Trymin89]

Did anyone by chance have any issues with the bolt sleeves on the camber and toe arms being the wrong size? Someone posted on FB regarding a 14mm sleeve for 12mm bolts and wasnt sure if anyone else has run into the same issue or not. My toe and camber arms are showing up tomorrow, just want to make sure I get the correct stuff before I attempt to put them on and have them be wrong