turboAWD
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EBC reds installed 1 set of rotors ago, same issues, ROTORS are CRAP.
OEM Rotors are "high carbon" G3500 castings. WAY better than most cheap rotors like R1.
EBC reds installed 1 set of rotors ago, same issues, ROTORS are CRAP.
You don't need to be a rocket scientist to know what you're suggesting is off the wall, but you're welcome to post around at other forums and find a single person who will support your theory. Don't get me wrong, if you were running hot laps at Laguna Seca until you're rotors were glowing and sparking maybe I'd considering what youre saying is possible, but I figure if you have that kind of heat transfering to your tires your OEM rubber brake lines would've melted and you'd have bigger problems than a little mark on a driveway.
A lot is two separate words, not allot.Well, if that was the case, SMART GUY, then the rear tires would be in pieces. It actually makes allot of sense that the excessive brake heat is increasing the tire pressure, which in turn creates the horrible vibration, which only occurs after allot of brake use and only on the front of the car. WOW, amazes me how many rocket scientists are in this group. I think I am done with this group, I will leave the car issues to the pros, WHICH ARE NOT IN THE GROUP.
right?! show us the tires!! i'm curious how much money he's wasted on >93 octaneHonestly I would love to see pics of the blistered tires and the rubber melted to his driveway.
Well-l-l, you can't completely discount blending in a higher octane fuel, while running a JB4....isn't it the only way to run higher MAPs with increased timing to prevent pre-detonation? I'm sure 110 is WAY overkill, but my MAP3 is looking for 93 with E30 mix, so I'd guess it wants something like 95 octane?right?! show us the tires!! i'm curious how much money he's wasted on >93 octane
I can put 110 in my lawn mower doesn't make it a race lawn mower
for sure don't give him ideas to make things up! typically E30 is mixed with 93. Race fuel is just impractical extra steps being expensive and unnecessary.Well-l-l, you can't completely discount blending in a higher octane fuel, while running a JB4....isn't it the only way to run higher MAPs with increased timing to prevent pre-detonation? I'm sure 110 is WAY overkill, but my MAP3 is looking for 93 with E30 mix, so I'd guess it wants something like 95 octane?
I've read at least one thread where an oz member called for help with brakes, just this past week so it does happen. but not like up here.Geez i love you NA's you're so damn entertaining lol. Just when i thought the forum was tiring a bit.
I will say one thing been on here over 5 years and read alot about various brake issues. And i can put money on a lot of the issues being the brake compound you guys have. Down in Oz i can't remember reading any issues with brakes here at all.
By my internet math, you should be something like 100-125hp over stock, but happy to have others chime in. Regardless of octane, I'd call any claim over 500 crank / 450 wheel questionable, especially with no dyno.368 hp & 376 torque running 13-14lbs of boost, verified by BurgerTuning
ARK downpipe
Burger Intake
Burger Big mount intercooler
MBRP S4708304 - 2022 Kia Stinger 3.3L T304 SS Cat-Back Exhaust- Dual Split Rear Quad Outlet Uses Factory Bezels
Burger Oil Catch Can
Denso 5346 IKH24 "1 Step" High-Performance Spark Plug
JB4 Map 4 running 22lbs of boost
JB4 EWG Wires
JB4 Fuel wires
FF set to 100
Race Fuel
Just on boost, 8lbs over stock, that is roughly 160HP. Then add up all the other mods,
maybe not 600HP, but pretty damn close.
More than the expense and impracticality of "race fuel" for normal road use, ethanol brings additional benefits that higher octane gasoline alone does not.for sure don't give him ideas to make things up! typically E30 is mixed with 93. Race fuel is just impractical extra steps being expensive and unnecessary.
i'm imagining him pulling up to a distributer and saying "I need 110" and they said "yah you do! HOW did you even get here without it?!"
Now I really know you have NO IDEA what you are talking about. Flash, ROFL LMAO, Go away little man. JB4 is a tune,what octane? i'm dying to know more
i said i know a thing or two. this car is more than two things
i think a bunch of people you interact with like your money and will tell you whatever the f*ck you want to hear bro
your tires aren't melting. that's not a thing
any imaginative way you're making it a thing the fact remains your brake fluid would boil and brakes would fail before anything (soft oem brake lines homie)
USDM pads were selected because americans like quiet brakes. the end. and yeah they leave residue and cause pulsing but this would disapate immidiately with any track-like aggressive braking required to heat things up anywhere close to the temperatures needed for tire issues. and yeah pressure goes up in wheels no matter what friction = heat = gasses expand. you're not doing anything in this car to cause rubber failure
i think someone already hit the nail on the head. your tires got hot and sticky and left a kiss on the pavement. chill
without a HPFP or port injection, valve timing delete, and a flash -- you're nowhere near 600hp fella. you got some pretty bolt ons thats about it![]()
When the new tires and brakes go on I will have them hand torque them.Curious if you have looked at the tread on the tires to see if the rubber has ”flowed” on the tread blocks. I remember the first time I saw Michelin Cup tires that you could actually see how the rubber had “flowed” just like a race tire. If you cannot see this, then I doubt the tires are actually melting.
In terms of the brake rotors “warping” the problem may not be so much with the rotors, but with the way the wheels are installed. The proper way to tighten the lug nuts is with a manual torque wrench in 2 to 3 passes and tighten in a star pattern. What I have seen is most tech’s nowadays use an impact gun just going around the wheel. This can result in over tightening and inducing an uneven stress in the rotors. If you are aggressively using the brakes and getting them really hot, this stres will get relieved resulting in warped rotors. This is not a fault of the rotors, but speaks to the incompetence of the tech’s at the KIA dealers (and a lot of other dealers).
If you are agreesively driving as you say you are, you may want to pay more attention to how the wheels are installed. Personally, my shop hand toques in the proper manner. I know this as I’m standing beside the tech. If my car must go to dealer, or I do not know how the wheels were installed, I re-torque the lug nuts myself. In the parking lot of the dealer or other shop.
imm perpetually at the "i'm never going to understand this" phaseDunning-Kruger effect - a cognitive bias whereby people with limited knowledge or competence in a given intellectual or social domain greatly overestimate their own knowledge or competence in that domain relative to objective criteria, the performance of their peers or of people in general.
According to the researchers for whom it is named, psychologists David Dunning and Justin Kruger, the effect is explained by the fact that the metacognitive ability to recognize deficiencies in one’s own knowledge or competence requires that one possess at least a minimum level of the same kind of knowledge or competence, which those who exhibit the effect have not attained.
Because they are unaware of their deficiencies, such people generally assume that they are not deficient, in keeping with the tendency of most people to “choose what they think is the most reasonable and optimal option.”
Although not scientifically explored until the late 20th century, the phenomenon is familiar from ordinary life, and it has long been attested in common sayings—e.g., “A little knowledge is a dangerous thing”—and in observations by writers and wits through the ages—e.g., “Ignorance more frequently begets confidence than does knowledge” (Charles Darwin).
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You stated JB4 and map 4. so you selected map 4. so you're using the piggyback system not a reprogrammed ecu unit i.e. a flash tune. Piggyback system interrupts and changes sensor values before they are processed by stock ecu programming and is not considered a flashed ecu? I think JB4 does back end flash now? Why don't we ask @Terry@BMS hey Terry is Jb4 map 4 on "race fuel" good for 600hp? This guy melted his tiresNow I really know you have NO IDEA what you are talking about. Flash, ROFL LMAO, Go away little man. JB4 is a tune,
When the new tires and brakes go on I will have them hand torque them.
To the others questioning the car,
first, the JB4 is a TUNE, ya not a flash, but almost as good.
2018 Stinger with JB4 map2, 91 octane, BMS intake, 416WHP, 514lbst at wheels.
2018, 91 pump gas and just an intake, maybe running 3-4lbs over stock boost.
2022 GT2 with all the mods and running 8lbs over stock map 4, like I said maybe not 600HP, but should be pretty close at the crank, not sure at the wheels.
Either way, it is fast as shit with brake issues and maybe a diff issue now. All will be fixed plus adding a true flash, WMI, no HPFP
So you found BMS' JB4 page where a strong car on a strong day did 416/514 on map 2. I have no doubt that's true for that car, but it's also going to be on the high end, plenty of runs and log analysis, etc which is why they're marketing it. Claiming the same for my car that hasn't seen a dyno is silly, at best I could maybe say map 2 has me "around 400whp".2018 Stinger with JB4 map2, 91 octane, BMS intake, 416WHP, 514lbst at wheels.
2018, 91 pump gas and just an intake, maybe running 3-4lbs over stock boost.
2022 GT2 with all the mods and running 8lbs over stock map 4, like I said maybe not 600HP, but should be pretty close at the crank, not sure at the wheels.