thinking of getting a stinger gt

[Fboost]

2018 model almost a year old, no issues, only drinks vortex 95, has never had anything else in it since I bought it, runs well gets good mileage avg 600km per tank

600kms to a tank! Wow do you have the 2L?
I barely crack 450kms per tank.
Average 10.9 or so.
Still better then I was getting from my 18 wrx manual with same size tank.

 

[bal]

Running 95 / 100 octane race gas in my RWD GT1 stinger, avg around 13mpg. No latch issues but bought post-recall so maybe it was already adjusted. Only issue is misfires around 750 miles and turbo / engine blown at 2300, has been fine since the motor swap. Heavily modded and it does not get driven with a light foot. Doesn't even feel like the same car in Eco / Comfort mode TBH.

If you like the styling of the G70 more, and don't need a hatch, go for that. Same motor and similar curb weight so I'm guessing the G70 gets similar mileage.

 

[Coast GT]

600kms to a tank! Wow do you have the 2L?
I barely crack 450kms per tank.
Average 10.9 or so.
Still better then I was getting from my 18 wrx manual with same size tank.

No mate 3.3L but do a bit of freeway driving in my commute mixed with local roads, due to time of day I miss a lot of the bumper to bumper stuff. I’ve had a number of tanks over 600km but usually I sit between high 500’s low 600’s depending on when I fill and what I’m doing. Tend to just sit in comfort mode most of the time. Sports mode sucks the juice a fair bit. Generally fuel economy varies between mid/high 8’s to low/mid 9L per 100km unless I give it a boot full

 

[Kato]

Getting 9.8/100km in town and 7.5ish on the highway with mine. Haven't noticed much difference between 91 and 98 so figure I'll just run the cheap stuff. Mine's developed a rattle in the sun roof and the dealer said it was a known issue. Getting it in on Thursday to apply some kind of cavity wax so guess we'll see whether it fixes it or not.

 

[bal]

Getting 9.8/100km in town and 7.5ish on the highway with mine. Haven't noticed much difference between 91 and 98 so figure I'll just run the cheap stuff. Mine's developed a rattle in the sun roof and the dealer said it was a known issue. Getting it in on Thursday to apply some kind of cavity wax so guess we'll see whether it fixes it or not.

That sucks. Had the dash rattle after installing frame braces and subframe bushings due to the stiffness of the chassis. Ended up fixing by sandwiching some leather on the right side of the dash myself. All part of the modification fun I guess. Thankfully no sunroof rattle but I'm guessing the wax is simply to dampen the vibration. Maybe try tightening the bolts that attach the glass or removing and adding loctite could be an easy fix without dealer intervention.

 

[Bigbikes]

Congrats on the car, but you’re dealer is talking shit as most of them do. It’s not necessary to only run 91. That’s the minimum octane rating the car can handle but it’s not necessary to run it. You can run whatever you want as long as it’s 91 or up. Only thing I’d suggest is not running E10 even though it is rated at 94 octane.

If your car’s specified to run on premium unleaded. It means the maker has designed the cylinders to produce more pressure and thus extract more power from the fuel. Sadly, if your car is tuned to run on regular unleaded then pumping premium into it won’t extract more power. Sorry.

 

[MerlintheMad]

If your car’s specified to run on premium unleaded. It means the maker has designed the cylinders to produce more pressure and thus extract more power from the fuel. Sadly, if your car is tuned to run on regular unleaded then pumping premium into it won’t extract more power. Sorry.

The US Stinger manual says that 91 octane as a minimum is recommended and that using regular/lower octane could result in reduced engine power and increased fuel consumption.

 

[Fboost]

The US Stinger manual says that 91 octane as a minimum is recommended and that using regular/lower octane could result in reduced engine power and increased fuel consumption.

It can also result in detonation which can crack piston rings, or even send a rod outside of the block.
Be wary using low octane fuel especially on hot days
Turbo engines are very prone to detonation and every turbo car I have owned has stated 98 octane fuel only
I haven't looked at the manual in regards to recommendation but I won't be putting anything less then 98 octane (obviously people in US excluded because your fuel sucks)
In Japan 98 octane is considered cheap shitty fuel and if you own an import that's been tuned in Japan, you usually need to retune tune it to suit the shitter fuel.
If the manual says less then it explains the big gains in tuning, engine must be tuned very low in regards to power, very safe air/fuel mix and timing.

 

[Bigbikes]

Be careful comparing fuel octanes between Australia & overseas - there's different measurement standards.


View attachment 25540

Unless your getting run over - you can't see inside that hole to access the locking pin. I added a cable tie to stop the pin from moving and any potential rattling.

Why put a tow-bar on your car anyway??...Its not a ute

 

[Manaz]

It can also result in detonation which can crack piston rings, or even send a rod outside of the block.

Sending a rod out of the block is probably stretching it, but detonation, absolutely, and damage to piston crowns and ringlands (sorry for the edit, auto-correct keeps saying England instead of ringlands!), especially with prolonged exposure to bad fuel, absolutely, though the ECU should detect detonation and regard timing/go into limp mode.

Be wary using low octane fuel especially on hot days
Turbo engines are very prone to detonation and every turbo car I have owned has stated 98 octane fuel only

Yep, compressing air heats it up, which makes a hot day even worse, and combustion temperatures are a contributor to detonation.

I haven't looked at the manual in regards to recommendation but I won't be putting anything less then 98 octane (obviously people in US excluded because your fuel sucks)

You should look, otherwise you're making a decision that isn't as fully informed as it should be.

The US uses a different fuel octane rating system to many other countries (Australia included). While we (And Europe, and Japan) use RON (Research Octane Number), but that doesn't make their fuel lower quality (despite their rating numbers looking lower). The US uses PON (Pump Octane Number), which is the average of RON and MON (Motor Octane Number). Effectively, for the same fuel quality, they report a lower number - their 87PON fuel is roughly the same as our 91RON, their 94 is about the same as our 98.

American vs European fuels – Octane rating – eTuners

In Japan 98 octane is considered cheap shitty fuel and if you own an import that's been tuned in Japan, you usually need to retune tune it to suit the shitter fuel.
If the manual says less then it explains the big gains in tuning, engine must be tuned very low in regards to power, very safe air/fuel mix and timing.

In Australia, our Stinger is factory rated for 91RON. Unless the factory tune is woeful or you get a terrible batch of fuel (the first is unlikely, the second not quite so unlikely), you're not going to see issues with running regular unleaded in a Stinger here in Australia, and you're unlikely to see significant (or even noticable) benefits from running 95RON or 98RON fuel (the reported benefits of better cleaning are hogwash) unless your car is specifically tuned for it. My current Liberty GT Spec.B is tuned for 98RON - if for some reason I can't get it, the fallback plan is to run a less aggressive map (I have three different maps, running on the SI Drive selector - I imagine the same can be done on a Stinger with the different drive modes - I will know soon enough).

 

[Manaz]

Why put a tow-bar on your car anyway??...Its not a ute

Because it's their car, and they'll put a tow bar on it if they choose?

Seriously, what's actually wrong with it? I move bikes (my son rides competitively) around on a tow-hitch mounted bike rack fairly regularly, and although I have a diesel SUV with a 3.5T towing capacity, that is the car my wife drives on a daily basis, and if, for some reason, she is out doing something and I am required to drive the bikes around, I see no issue with my putting the bikes on a hitch on my car. I'm unlikely to tow the boat or the race car, but if they need moving short distances (like, say, out of the driveway), is there anything substantially wrong with using the Stinger briefly for that?

Even outside of my requirements - a Ute is a pretty substantial compromise for some people just to be able to tow something occasionally - more.of a compromise than a removable tow hitch on a Stinger I suspect.

 

[Bigbikes]

Because it's their car, and they'll put a tow bar on it if they choose?

Seriously, what's actually wrong with it? I move bikes (my son rides competitively) around on a tow-hitch mounted bike rack fairly regularly, and although I have a diesel SUV with a 3.5T towing capacity, that is the car my wife drives on a daily basis, and if, for some reason, she is out doing something and I am required to drive the bikes around, I see no issue with my putting the bikes on a hitch on my car. I'm unlikely to tow the boat or the race car, but if they need moving short distances (like, say, out of the driveway), is there anything substantially wrong with using the Stinger briefly for that?

Even outside of my requirements - a Ute is a pretty substantial compromise for some people just to be able to tow something occasionally - more.of a compromise than a removable tow hitch on a Stinger I suspect.

Relax its just my comment, you didn't need to write an essay about it and its not even your car...Cheers

 

[Manaz]

Relax its just my comment, you didn't need to write an essay about it and its not even your car...Cheers

And that was just my comment. We are allowed to disagree.

 

[Fboost]

Sending a rod out of the block is probably stretching it, but detonation, absolutely, and damage to piston crowns and ringlands (sorry for the edit, auto-correct keeps saying England instead of ringlands!), especially with prolonged exposure to bad fuel, absolutely, though the ECU should detect detonation and regard timing/go into limp mode.



Yep, compressing air heats it up, which makes a hot day even worse, and combustion temperatures are a contributor to detonation.



You should look, otherwise you're making a decision that isn't as fully informed as it should be.

The US uses a different fuel octane rating system to many other countries (Australia included). While we (And Europe, and Japan) use RON (Research Octane Number), but that doesn't make their fuel lower quality (despite their rating numbers looking lower). The US uses PON (Pump Octane Number), which is the average of RON and MON (Motor Octane Number). Effectively, for the same fuel quality, they report a lower number - their 87PON fuel is roughly the same as our 91RON, their 94 is about the same as our 98.

American vs European fuels – Octane rating – eTuners



In Australia, our Stinger is factory rated for 91RON. Unless the factory tune is woeful or you get a terrible batch of fuel (the first is unlikely, the second not quite so unlikely), you're not going to see issues with running regular unleaded in a Stinger here in Australia, and you're unlikely to see significant (or even noticable) benefits from running 95RON or 98RON fuel (the reported benefits of better cleaning are hogwash) unless your car is specifically tuned for it. My current Liberty GT Spec.B is tuned for 98RON - if for some reason I can't get it, the fallback plan is to run a less aggressive map (I have three different maps, running on the SI Drive selector - I imagine the same can be done on a Stinger with the different drive modes - I will know soon enough).

That explains the fuel rating, I wondered why the US would have such inferior fuel.
I have seen several engines throw a rod from detonation, it is absolutely possible, but yes of coarse an extreme example and not something I would ever expect a stock stinger to do.
I never bothered looking at the manual in regards for recommended fuel as I will run 98 regardless. A lot of people say you can run any oil you want as long as viscosity is correct and you change regularly, me I use a good quality oil.
If I wanted to penny pinch on fuel I wouldn't have bought a V6 twin turbo stinger!
As for benefits, long term testing have shown less carbon buildup with higher octane fuel, I guess it depends if you plan on keeping the car for some time, or if it's just a lease then who cares.

 

[MerlintheMad]

That explains the fuel rating, I wondered why the US would have such inferior fuel.
I have seen several engines throw a rod from detonation, it is absolutely possible, but yes of coarse an extreme example and not something I would ever expect a stock stinger to do.
I never bothered looking at the manual in regards for recommended fuel as I will run 98 regardless. A lot of people say you can run any oil you want as long as viscosity is correct and you change regularly, me I use a good quality oil.
If I wanted to penny pinch on fuel I wouldn't have bought a V6 twin turbo stinger!
As for benefits, long term testing have shown less carbon buildup with higher octane fuel, I guess it depends if you plan on keeping the car for some time, or if it's just a lease then who cares.

Interesting the gaps in people's knowledge. I, not a car guy, knew of the disparate octane numbers between the US and Aus. Around where I live, the highest octane is 91, "Premium". We have a low "Regular" at 85: too low for the Stinger. Midgrade is 87, a mixture of Premium and Regular. When I bought my car it was never a question of treating it any way but as if I planned on keeping it long term: which of course means treating the engine with the best possible care: the idea of making the engine "adjust" itself to lower octane than what is recommended is anathema to me. I also want instant FULL performance at all times. I've therefore never put anything but Premium octane in my Stinger. Oil? I consider all the commonly available brands equal enough that it doesn't matter. So I've never worried about what the service center puts in. It gets changed every 4K miles. The brand is thus not an issue.

 

[Kato]

That explains the fuel rating, I wondered why the US would have such inferior fuel.
I have seen several engines throw a rod from detonation, it is absolutely possible, but yes of coarse an extreme example and not something I would ever expect a stock stinger to do.
I never bothered looking at the manual in regards for recommended fuel as I will run 98 regardless. A lot of people say you can run any oil you want as long as viscosity is correct and you change regularly, me I use a good quality oil.
If I wanted to penny pinch on fuel I wouldn't have bought a V6 twin turbo stinger!
As for benefits, long term testing have shown less carbon buildup with higher octane fuel, I guess it depends if you plan on keeping the car for some time, or if it's just a lease then who cares.

Why pay extra for fuel when there's little to no benefit? The difference between 98 and 91 here in Aus is 20c/L so really just throwing money away on it if you haven't modded the car

 

[Manaz]

The only evidence that higher octane fuel results in a cleaner engine was paid for by fuel companies keen to sell you fuel at 20c/L over standard pricing...

 

[Manaz]

I do agree on oil, I only run good quality full symthetics, particularly in a turbocharged vehicle. I also change oil every 5,000km, irrespective of defined service interval - it's cheap insurance on a turbocharged engine.

 

[Fboost]

The only evidence that higher octane fuel results in a cleaner engine was paid for by fuel companies keen to sell you fuel at 20c/L over standard pricing...

I understand what your saying but I don't trust service stations.
I have had cars where I put regular petrol in and the car started pinging immediately.
Now I'm sure it could just be a bad batch and probably could have happened with premium as well but for me it was regular so I stay away from the stuff.
20c extra per litre isn't going to break me, as I said if I was concerned about fuel consumption I would have bought a different car.

 

[AV8R]

Now I have read in this forum that the cars computer compensates for the higher octane and adjusts the timing, so you can get better power mileage with 98RON. Is it true?