Suffered my first big rock chip (nay, blasting)

antonini311

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I had to hit the freeway the other day. I'm hardly ever driving now, thanks to the "Safer at home" and my bad luck...

A giant rock or something skipped off the freeway and hit the lower strip of my driver's door panel. We never even saw anything, just heard a loud thunk. My hopes that it was just a hit to the undercarriage were dashed when I got home and saw a 1.5in strip that was down to the bare metal. So upsetting. I want to fix it, but body shops are quoting $600 just for that. Meh! I think it's too much work for me to try and tackle myself, given it removed all paint in that area.

If I choose to forego body work for now and save the $$, is there anything I should do to the area to assure it doesn't get worse, or more paint starts to peel?

Thanks
 

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I had to hit the freeway the other day. I'm hardly ever driving now, thanks to the "Safer at home" and my bad luck...

A giant rock or something skipped off the freeway and hit the lower strip of my driver's door panel. We never even saw anything, just heard a loud thunk. My hopes that it was just a hit to the undercarriage were dashed when I got home and saw a 1.5in strip that was down to the bare metal. So upsetting. I want to fix it, but body shops are quoting $600 just for that. Meh! I think it's too much work for me to try and tackle myself, given it removed all paint in that area.

If I choose to forego body work for now and save the $$, is there anything I should do to the area to assure it doesn't get worse, or more paint starts to peel?

Thanks
The reason the body shops are so expensive is because they would paint the whole door , get some touch up paint and fill the void , Dr ColourChip is very good ,as is Automotive Touchup, the Kia Paint pens suck for color match IMHO sorry to see BUT it happens to most of us !!
 
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I recently had a deep gash like this on my roof down to the metal. PaintScratch has primer pens along with their paint touch up pens. I cleaned the area with alcohol then used a primer pen first for safe measure. it also filled the hole so less layers of touch up paint were needed to bring it up to match the factory paint
 
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I recently had a deep gash like this on my roof down to the metal. PaintScratch has primer pens along with their paint touch up pens. I cleaned the area with alcohol then used a primer pen first for safe measure. it also filled the hole so less layers of touch up paint were needed to bring it up to match the factory paint
Do I need to apply primer, then sand the primer smooth and apply a touch-up? And do I need to sand pre-application of the primer?
 
Do I need to apply primer, then sand the primer smooth and apply a touch-up? And do I need to sand pre-application of the primer?
In my humble opinion, you're overthinking this, after what's been said already. Primer first after cleaning (make sure all loose original paint is gone; light sanding or scraping with one of those fiber wedge ends on a typical touchup kit.

Use a small brush and cover all bare metal with primer. Don't get heavy with it but make sure it goes on very wet; a thin, full covering will be good enough. Let it sit a day.

Now you play with the touchup paint. I would lay it on thin and wet, let it dry, repeat; until it looks as high as the surrounding paint. If it looks a bit higher, try some very light wet sanding with 2000 grit or finer; lots of water; soak the sandpaper well first. This is where you can screw it up; especially since that low angle will be hard to work and even see easily. (But that is also a blessing: none of this is going to show much; from five, six feet away it likely will not be noticeable to anyone but you - because you'll always know it's there).

If you muff it and sand down too far, just try it again.

You'll want to stay away from the surrounding paint; so, putting some tape down around the aggrieved area as you sand is a good idea (I can sand without hitting the surrounding clearcoat because I am exceedingly slow and patient; but not everyone is).

Know this: a different color than Black Pearl would show the repair far more readily; HCR is notorious for being impossible to match; and my Silky Silver simply does not lay down touchup in a way to blend with the metal glints of the original spray; a brush just doesn't lay paint down so that it hides, at all. So, eventually all touchup will increase in number until I can't stand it anymore and get my car either wrapped or repainted. So far, only one blemish is visible, like a zit. :rolleyes::D Yours is on a downward facing surface and down low. Aside from the unlucky hit in the first place, that is lucky.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Do I need to apply primer, then sand the primer smooth and apply a touch-up? And do I need to sand pre-application of the primer?

So there’s painting and there’s using a touch up pen. I didn’t sand for using the touch up pen. I prepared the area with alcohol only. Different manufacturers have different directions. Paintscratch primer pen dries and is ready for paint touch up pen without sanding. Then you buff the touch up paint with their supplied compound (comes with the pen) before it dries fully.

Note: I couldn’t buff the area after using the paint touch up because I have a ceramic coat that has another year left in it so I instead used alchohol and a microfiber cloth to buff the touch-up area flat. Alchohol breaks down the touch up paint enough to buff it down but doesn't effect the ceramic coat on the factory paint. If you do not have a ceramic coat then you would follow the directions and use/buff the Paintscratch clear coat instead of the touch up paint (IF you bought Paintscratch and IF you get all three; primer pen, paint pen, clear coat) I opted no clear coat layer because of my ceramic coat/buffing situation
 
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Thanks for the advice guys. I ordered one of the PaintScratch primer pens and the Dr. Color Chip kit. Even though it's a larger spot, I think the saving grace will be that it's on the downslope of the door panel. So if I take my time I think I can get it to match well enough that you won't see it unless you are right up on it. And let's be honest, I'm the only one who gets that close to my car. haha

I am curious how Dr. ColorChip holds up to washing/waxing/etc. Like how often it breaks down and has to be retouched.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I ordered one of the PaintScratch primer pens and the Dr. Color Chip kit. Even though it's a larger spot, I think the saving grace will be that it's on the downslope of the door panel. So if I take my time I think I can get it to match well enough that you won't see it unless you are right up on it. And let's be honest, I'm the only one who gets that close to my car. haha

I am curious how Dr. ColorChip holds up to washing/waxing/etc. Like how often it breaks down and has to be retouched.
The key to adhesion is cleaning the spot , use rubbing alc and make sure all loose paint is removed , after the primer , fill the chip with several coats of color , the key is not to overlap onto the existing paint , just fill the "hole" . If you are careful you can bring it up to the same level as the surrounding paint .....................lots of good vids on youtube showing chip repairs for guidance !! Good Luck !
 
I think at this point, since you bought the paint, give it a try. If you can't get satisfactory results, the only loss was your time since you should have the paint on hand to handle small chips anyway. If you're not happy with the results and still want it fixed, then hire a professional. I don't consider your investment in touch up paint a wasted cost at all, anyone that owns a car and cares about the appearance should have some.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
So I had my guy remove the ceramic coat, apply the touch up clear coat, wet sand and reapply the clear coat

still very noticeable BUT much better and I at least have the peace of mind knowing its sealed from the elements until I can afford to have it repainted then bulk wrapped with PPF

and peace of mind is priceless. I don’t regret using the touch up kit but will definitely be readdressing next spring with a proper paint job
 
What a helpful post. Thank you.
I'll say it again because you may have missed it the first time. It'll look like garbage. It needs to be repainted professionally. If you can't afford to spend a measly $600 dollars on a $45,000 car to stop it from rusting a year into its life then you probably should have bought something more affordable.
 
I'll say it again because you may have missed it the first time. It'll look like garbage. It needs to be repainted professionally. If you can't afford to spend a measly $600 dollars on a $45,000 car to stop it from rusting a year into its life then you probably should have bought something more affordable.
Gee Ward , you're being a bit tough on the Beaver !
 
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I'll say it again because you may have missed it the first time. It'll look like garbage. It needs to be repainted professionally. If you can't afford to spend a measly $600 dollars on a $45,000 car to stop it from rusting a year into its life then you probably should have bought something more affordable.
I'm on my way to a body shop right now because you inspired me so much. Thanks for being the voice of reason.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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