Subwoofer Install w/ Harman Kardon System

The spare is the main central support for the deck. If you were going to remove the spare then that's where I'd put the box and sub.
 
Anyone measured the response of the Harmon Kardon system? It's quite loud but doesn't seem like there's much under 100Hz. I'm guessing they're using a high-pass filter to get a lot of volume out of tiny subs. That said, I haven't broken mine in yet so maybe it will get deeper.
 
The spare is the main central support for the deck. If you were going to remove the spare then that's where I'd put the box and sub.

Yes...I just confirmed that...lol. To make matters worse/interesting...I confirmed both my amp & lc2i fit where yours do..HOWEVER, I also have an AudioControl Epicenter. Fitting that in there with the amp & loc is just plain NO BUENO.

The setup has to run: LC2i>>>Epicenter>>>Amp>>>Subs.

Not the most creative, but may have to follow you on the LC2i & Amp, but mount the Epicenter on side of the sub box..and just run the wires back n forth. Awesome!!
 
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Update on my project. First...I tapped the rear speakers, looks like you were right...exhaust/engine sounds being piped through those.

Also tried the GTO function on the LC2i...it did work, but..the audio components would not turn off..so I tried using the remote ON

What fuse did you use from the trunk fuse panel, I tried several...but amp would stay on.

I ended up using one of the USB/Power fuses by the driver footwell fuse panel.
 
Glad to hear that you are making some progress on your install.

The first remote lead I used was the accessory wire from the blue amplifier connector. Blue wire with red stripe.

The nice thing about that wire is that it would stay on whenever the radio is on.

Now I have the remote piggybacked into a fuse from the drivers side footwell but it turns off when you turn the car off. I wired it up there because it was easier to install a switch to turn off the amp if I have the sub box out or have kids / other people that don't like hearing loss ;)
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
OK..I could swear you mentioned the accessory wire method previously..must have over looked it, but will give it a shot. I am attempting to build a bracket for my terminal block and Epicenter. It will be using the same mounting screws as the mount for the factory amp...but on the opposite side of the car....should work. If that goes well...i should only have the sub speaker wire visible in the trunk. Need to work on my cable management skills...perfect project.

That being said....my subs are freaking loud now. Need to do the tuning, which should be interesting (lc21 + epicenter +amp). Have a spectrum analyzer on my phone, so we shall see. Also need to find an empty lot...don't want to piss off the neighbors.

Something tells me I'm going to need some dynamat. Think I have fallen into a bottomless pit with this project...SMH
 
Sounds like a good plan on the mounting location.
I was thinking that tuning that monster in with all the links in the chain would be fun.
That Epicenter with built in LOC sounds really good product right about now huh ;)

You'll get it, it might just take a bit of time.
 
Sounds like a good plan on the mounting location.
I was thinking that tuning that monster in with all the links in the chain would be fun.
That Epicenter with built in LOC sounds really good product right about now huh ;)

You'll get it, it might just take a bit of time.

Yea well, I got the epicenter a few years ago...this is my first time working with/keeping a factory head unit, so never needed an LOC before...
But YES...in hindsight...lol

What sucks is, between work and the fam...I may not be able to make any progress til the weekend. Duh
 
Same here with the LOC, first time.
And I hear ya about things going on. I was lucky to get some stuff done while my wife was out of town and the honey do list wasn't quite as high of a priority.

She's gone again Monday and Tuesday, we'll see if a new sub box gets made while she's away.
 
Made some progress and have the box pretty much done. Just need to throw some black carpet on it and put in sub and speaker terminal. Going with the JL 10TW1-4 which only needs .35 cu ft of space and this box comes in at around .375 cu ft plus I will be adding some poly-fill.

20180620_203642.webp 20180620_203649.webp

While I was waiting for some wood filler to dry I decided to start taking some trunk panels out and I must say it was a little more involved then I thought. Unfortunately I did a dumb thing and removed the driver side panel as I thought the image in the first post was of that side but was of passenger side. Should have looked at it again before I took it off as the fuse panel is on the passenger side. SO if anyone needs pics of what is on the Driver side of the trunk I have them :).
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Looks great!
It looks like the sub will be rear facing and the box will butt up against the back seat?
Also, I see you doubled up the wood on the front of the box. Is that to add more support with the large cutout for the driver? Or is it to give you more depth to clear the magnet?

Nice attention to detail. wood putty and all :thumbup:
 
Thanks.

Correct on the box placement. Doubled up for added strength and to give me a little bit more space. Some pics of the finished box below.

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Took the passenger side panel off as well and tapped into the front speakers. Surprised the front speakers still work they way I was pulling on some of those wires to splice them in :)
 
Looks like a nicely made box.
I unwrapped a fair amount of factory electrical tape to get slack in the wires.
Good to hear that it's working as desired.
 
Yea...got my working/setup as well. Would have taken pics...but was a frustrating @ss experience. "Worked" from home on Wed and decided to take 'multiple' elongated breaks to work on the car. Needless too say, got everything done except for cable management. Made sure everything turned on one last time and then...I decided to try the GTO function..and that did it. NOTHING turned on again...took me til yesterday to confirm I blew the 20 amp fuse to the battery. Visibly still intact though...go figure. Long story short, I've been driving around since Thursday with no trunk panels, not spare tire, and a bunch of components and wires strewn around the bare metal trunk.....straight ghetto. So..this morning popped in the new fuse and BAM good to go. Finished off the install, and even tuned the LC21, Epicenter, and amp.

Problem is....my dual 12's are now overpowering the stock speakers by a ridiculous amount...WTF!!

Now...entertaining the idea of upgrading those and using in my 4 channel amp. But then, I'd have to bypass the factory amp and start pulling off doors...SMH

Freaking Rabbit Hole!
 
Thanks.

Correct on the box placement. Doubled up for added strength and to give me a little bit more space. Some pics of the finished box below.

View attachment 8914 View attachment 8915 View attachment 8916 View attachment 8917 View attachment 8918

Took the passenger side panel off as well and tapped into the front speakers. Surprised the front speakers still work they way I was pulling on some of those wires to splice them in :)

Nice job on the box! Yea...those wires are no joke.

Thinking I shoulda gone with a single 12"....or dual 10's...lol
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Thanks. Hoping to finish this off tomorrow. Tested the sub indoors hooked up to a/v receiver and it was hitting pretty hard so thinking it will be enough. I too was also concerned with overpowering the stock system and will let you know when I get it hooked up if I think it is enough or need more :).
 
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Finished up and everything put back. I did realize after i bolted side panel back on that I forgot to plug the light back in so still need to fix that. Sounds pretty good so far in limited listening and seems to fill in where the stock system lacks without overpowering it.

Not sure if anyone else had this issue but after disconnecting my battery with the power trunk lid open I had to close it by hand for it to work again. Guess it thought it was closed when it was actually open.

Some pics:
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Only think left now is to run the wires up to the dash for the control knobs.
 
Nice install! Very professional looking with the carpeted mounting boards and all.
That and I like how the box size still allows for the stowing of long items with the seat folded down.

Did you run into any issues fitting the amp under the spare tire? What amp did you use and what are its dimensions?
 
Made some progress and have the box pretty much done. Just need to throw some black carpet on it and put in sub and speaker terminal. Going with the JL 10TW1-4 which only needs .35 cu ft of space and this box comes in at around .375 cu ft plus I will be adding some poly-fill.

View attachment 8843 View attachment 8844

While I was waiting for some wood filler to dry I decided to start taking some trunk panels out and I must say it was a little more involved then I thought. Unfortunately I did a dumb thing and removed the driver side panel as I thought the image in the first post was of that side but was of passenger side. Should have looked at it again before I took it off as the fuse panel is on the passenger side. SO if anyone needs pics of what is on the Driver side of the trunk I have them :).
Can you send those pics you have of the driver and passenger side
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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