Stinger just crushed the stock turbo record and made 490whp/574wtq on e30 without WMI

[RUFFSTUFF]

In about 15 min I can make a dyno sheet in Excel...

 

[BlueByYouGT]

This dyno queen fight has been entertaining. Hopefully we some actually times soon from this "ReCoRD DyNO CAr"

X'actly. These " records" mean absolutely dick considering dynos can be manipulated to say whatever the operator wants them to or like @RUFFSTUFF mentioned someone can just make one at home in a few minutes.

Breaking records on a track actually tells us something about the car. Breaking records on a photo of a piece of paper doesn't tell us anything.

 

[Terry@BMS]

Looks like we have a new record. Below is the first publicly shared dynojet result of a stock turbo(non NOS) Stinger making over 500whp!

Not in the loop on that specific car but the new JB4 EWG control is providing more tuning flexibility especially with fully modified vehicles, so not surprised either. Expect more solid track results out soon as we expand EWG testing.

 

[Socalstinga]

I don't get it, I'm running around 395whp 415wtq and I can't get power to the ground on a dig even with LC (i think a lot to do with my weak AS tires and nannies). So all this power, but is it usable?!? That's the real question...#nanniessuck

 

[StungBlueGT2]

In about 15 min I can make a dyno sheet in Excel...

I’m sure just like everything on the internet can be photoshopped and can be fake too.

However the company that ran the dyno is a reputable tuner in PA “Complete Street Performance”(Complete Street Performance - cspracing.com. The leader in late model GM Performance. We offer tuning, installs, and performance auto parts.) and it’s only 13whp more than the current record so it wouldn’t make sense to go through that effort for such a minimal difference.

X'actly. These " records" mean absolutely dick considering dynos can be manipulated to say whatever the operator wants them to or like @RUFFSTUFF mentioned someone can just make one at home in a few minutes.

Breaking records on a track actually tells us something about the car. Breaking records on a photo of a piece of paper doesn't tell us anything.

That’s incorrect unless you’re talking about a load bearing dyno like a Mustang dyno. This is a dynojet which is standardized and why it’s the most accurate option to compare different cars.

Comparing different track results is a lot less accurate and doesn’t mean anything because of all the variables between locations(temperature, weather conditions, altitude, quality of track preparation, slope of the track, etc.)
Also a track slip can be created even easier than a dyno sheet, so your arguments can apply to track times too.

If you want to talk about track times there is already a thread for that purpose, but this one is discussing HP/TQ records using the most accurate way of comparing different cars in different regions which is a dynojet dyno.

I don't get it, I'm running around 395whp 415wtq and I can't get power to the ground on a dig even with LC (i think a lot to do with my weak AS tires and nannies). So all this power, but is it usable?!? That's the real question...#nanniessuck

Yes but you either need AWD, drag radials or the JB4 with boost by gear to get power down from a dig. Also make sure to turn all the nannies off so the ECU doesn’t cut power.

Blueberry has the same problem and only races from the roll because of traction limitations. It’s just a problem for us “tractionally challenged” RWD Stingers and now know I will be getting the AWD version for my next Stinger.

 

[Socalstinga]

I’m sure just like everything on the internet can be photoshopped and can be fake too.

However the company that ran the dyno is a reputable tuner in PA “Complete Street Performance”(Complete Street Performance - cspracing.com. The leader in late model GM Performance. We offer tuning, installs, and performance auto parts.) and it’s only 13whp more than the current record so it wouldn’t make sense to go through that effort for such a minimal difference.

That’s incorrect unless you’re talking about a load bearing dyno like a Mustang dyno. This is a dynojet which is standardized and why it’s the most accurate option to compare different cars.

Comparing different track results is a lot less accurate and doesn’t mean anything because of all the variables between locations(temperature, weather conditions, altitude, quality of track preparation, slope of the track, etc.)
Also a track slip can be created even easier than a dyno sheet, so your arguments can apply to track times too.

If you want to talk about track times there is already a thread for that purpose, but this one is discussing HP/TQ records using the most accurate way of comparing different cars in different regions which is a dynojet dyno.

Yes but you either need AWD, drag radials or the JB4 with boost by gear to get power down from a dig. Also make sure to turn all the nannies off so the ECU doesn’t cut power.

Blueberry has the same problem and only races from the roll because of traction limitations. It’s just a problem for us “tractionally challenged” RWD Stingers and now know I will be getting the AWD version for my next Stinger.

Tell me about it...I'd like to get on that 0-60 chart to see what I can actually run, but even with better summer tires I'm not sure if I can put the power down from a dig. I was considering putting back my oem wheels, I actually got better times with those with less power LOL. I didn't have these issues with my e92 M3 and that was a beastly RWD machine...

 

[Ecobust]

Traction challenged RWD owner here too. I know my car is capable of ~4 second 0-60 runs, if it could just put the power down. I know this because it can manage 4.3 secs IN COMFORT MODE, since it spins way less.

Basically our only options for containing wheel spin are boost by gear or launching in eco/comfort then quickly switching to sport once moving.

 

[RUFFSTUFF]

That’s incorrect unless you’re talking about a load bearing dyno like a Mustang dyno. This is a dynojet which is standardized and why it’s the most accurate option to compare different cars.

No, it's cheaper than a Mustang dyno not more accurate and/or standardized. That's why it's popular.

 

[Socalstinga]

Traction challenged RWD owner here too. I know my car is capable of ~4 second 0-60 runs, if it could just put the power down. I know this because it can manage 4.3 secs IN COMFORT MODE, since it spins way less.

Basically our only options for containing wheel spin are boost by gear or launching in eco/comfort then quickly switching to sport once moving.

I’m going to try smart. Best I could do I sport was 4.69 and that still had mad wheel spin.

 

[Socalstinga]

Traction challenged RWD owner here too. I know my car is capable of ~4 second 0-60 runs, if it could just put the power down. I know this because it can manage 4.3 secs IN COMFORT MODE, since it spins way less.

Basically our only options for containing wheel spin are boost by gear or launching in eco/comfort then quickly switching to sport once moving.

How did you launch in comfort?

 

[Ecobust]

How did you launch in comfort?

Just punched it. I get some wheel spin but nothing like the madness that comes with punching it in sport.

I’m going to try smart. Best I could do I sport was 4.69 and that still had mad wheel spin.

If you try smart it's just going to put it in sport when you take off aggressively.

 

[Socalstinga]

Just punched it. I get some wheel spin but nothing like the madness that comes with punching it in sport.


If you try smart it's just going to put it in sport when you take off aggressively.

Going to try comfort this coming wkd...totally forgot about smart Going to sport...

 

[Vortex951]

I’m going to try smart. Best I could do I sport was 4.69 and that still had mad wheel spin.

You running the jb4? I have a g70 sport rwd and got a 4.40 on draggy but I also have 285 wide sport cup 2s to help get traction. Map 5 use boost by gear for first. Hold 3 psi. Bms brake snip. Do a nice little burnout and launch it with brake boost. I for sure have more in mine as well being I still spin a little.

 

[Socalstinga]

You running the jb4? I have a g70 sport rwd and got a 4.40 on draggy but I also have 285 wide sport cup 2s to help get traction. Map 5 use boost by gear for first. Hold 3 psi. Bms brake snip. Do a nice little burnout and launch it with brake boost. I for sure have more in mine as well being I still spin a little.

I used to have a jb4, but now on the Weistec tune. I was thinking that I would need to just get better tires instead of the AS 285 I’m running. Been toying around the idea of stacking the jb4 for the boost by gear but haven’t looked into it yet

 

[Vortex951]

I used to have a jb4, but now on the Weistec tune. I was thinking that I would need to just get better tires instead of the AS 285 I’m running. Been toying around the idea of stacking the jb4 for the boost by gear but haven’t looked into it yet

Some great tires for traction but also going to be used daily would be toyo r888rs. More on the track side tho great traction with them. They will be my next set of rears. I’m going back to the drag strip in two weeks. Going to try and not reduce boost and try to get under my 2.00 60’ Sadly I’m elevation challenged. 2300 feet and da constantly 5500 or higher so my times suck compared to sea level cars

 

[Socalstinga]

Some great tires for traction but also going to be used daily would be toyo r888rs. More on the track side tho great traction with them. They will be my next set of rears. I’m going back to the drag strip in two weeks. Going to try and not reduce boost and try to get under my 2.00 60’ Sadly I’m elevation challenged. 2300 feet and da constantly 5500 or higher so my times suck compared to sea level cars

right, I'm researching tires that I can use as a DD but still have good traction/performance. Might just go ahead and get a set of rears for spring/summer and keep the current ones stocked away for fall/winter later in the year. Living in socal you just don't know what you're going to get, and now we're looking like we won't get rain much for the foreseeable future. So won't need those A/S tires for the next 6-7 months.

 

[Vortex951]

right, I'm researching tires that I can use as a DD but still have good traction/performance. Might just go ahead and get a set of rears for spring/summer and keep the current ones stocked away for fall/winter later in the year. Living in socal you just don't know what you're going to get, and now we're looking like we won't get rain much for the foreseeable future. So won't need those A/S tires for the next 6-7 months.

I love my sport cup 2s. But even so I still spin even from a 40 roll

 

[Vortex951]

I’m in Vegas tho and we only get rain 3-5 days a year so I don’t ever have to put on all seasons lol

 

[Socalstinga]

I love my sport cup 2s. But even so I still spin even from a 40 roll

Boy those suckers are expensive! Lol

 

[Vortex951]

Boy those suckers are expensive! Lol

Oh ya. But when compared to the stock tires in the size I have it wasn’t to much more. I think I paid 361 per tire R888r was about 426 I think but worth the price difference to me so those will probably be the next tires I get. Unless I decide to buy some spare rear wheels in 18” and run some real radials