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Removing Oil filter

Knowing the haste and lack of attention at the dealerships, i'd imagine the Power steering motor would be soaked in oil from the filter, which is why I'm hesitant to take it to them.

A very bad design.
 
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I'm going to speculate that this is a RHD market concern. The oil filter is going to be in the same place, but the steering components are not.
It would have been so good to have the filter facing opposite direction.Would have allowed removing from engine bay.
 
Has anyone done their own change yet?
 
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Has anyone done their own change yet?
Yes. 4x. I always take both panels off completely. I also put on a Fumoto valve, which makes it much easier/cleaner.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I also put on a Fumoto valve, which makes it much easier/cleaner.

This is a great add on I heard about from a great source on this forum! (Kudos to MoinMoin)
 
Has anyone tried removing the oil filter from the round access panel underneath? I cannot seem to get any tools in there because there is a motor beneath the filter housing.
I would like to see the Aussie oil and filter cha.nge with steering motor in the way
 
i did my oil change 13k i change it ever 5k. i have a 2k trip so changed it early, having the front eibach sway there made it a pain in the ass to change the filter got oil everywhere also found out that kia didnt change the filter at the 9k service.
 
i did my oil change 13k i change it ever 5k. i have a 2k trip so changed it early, having the front eibach sway there made it a pain in the ass to change the filter got oil everywhere also found out that kia didnt change the filter at the 9k service.
I don't see how a non OEM sway bar could make any difference so could you please explain further.
 
i did my oil change 13k i change it ever 5k. i have a 2k trip so changed it early, having the front eibach sway there made it a pain in the ass to change the filter got oil everywhere also found out that kia didnt change the filter at the 9k service.
Oil & filter change is every 10,000kms, if your dealer didn‘t change it as you say go back & ask them to explain.
I also doubt the Eibach swaybar would make it difficult to change the filter, my dealer fitted mine & has done 2 services since without issue.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I've done 2 oil changes myself so far since my 2019 GT2 only has just under 6,500 miles on it after 12.5 months of ownership. I did the first engine oil and filter change at just over 1,500 miles to get the metal shavings out and another at just over 6,200 miles. I just take both of the under panels off. Both times I have found lots of rocks sitting on top of the under panels. So its good to take them down and dump off all the rocks and debris.
 
I have performed 4 oil changes on my 2019 3.3L GT LIMITED AWD.

twice I used the round access panel with a 27mm socket and a 3/8 inch ratchet. There seemed to be enough room to remove the filter without a mess.

the other way, removing the large panel was pretty easy and allowed me to inspect all the components.

the biggest issue I encountered was screwing the cartridge back in because the filter needs to be pressed into the housing pretty hard, otherwise you are unable to start threading the housing back in .

a bit of patience and elbow grease is required.
 
the biggest issue I encountered was screwing the cartridge back in because the filter needs to be pressed into the housing pretty hard, otherwise you are unable to start threading the housing back in .

a bit of patience and elbow grease is required.
Indeed, the first oil change i did I didn't understand why the plastic oil filter wasn't threading back on. I thought i didn't mount the paper filter all the way through the post. You have to push it and twist at the same time.
 
I really wish the cartridge housing was aluminum like on my wife’s Lexus SUV. I cringe at the thought of cross threading or over tightening (and cracking) the plastic housing.
 
I have performed 4 oil changes on my 2019 3.3L GT LIMITED AWD.

twice I used the round access panel with a 27mm socket and a 3/8 inch ratchet. There seemed to be enough room to remove the filter without a mess.

the other way, removing the large panel was pretty easy and allowed me to inspect all the components.

the biggest issue I encountered was screwing the cartridge back in because the filter needs to be pressed into the housing pretty hard, otherwise you are unable to start threading the housing back in .

a bit of patience and elbow grease is required.

looks simple.

Also:


snug the filter cartridge onto the inside mount, then take it out and snug it inside the cap. Then, with it mounted inside the cap, put the cap with the filter onto/into the housing. Voila--no struggling, no pressing, no elbow grease or guessing needed.

Of course, nothing beats a simple top mounted cartridge. With that and an oil extractor, oil changes are mess free.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Can anyone who bought the metal Billet Oil filter cap provide a product review. The video is very interesting and the product looks good.

I am interested to hear someone’s opinion who has the item

Thx!
 
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the talk track was about how heat affects the cap interface when it's plastic. So you change that to metal; but, the housing is still plastic. Doesn't sound like switching out the cap would be that meaningful.

Also, it seems way too easy for a metal cap to screw up the plastic threads on the housing.

One wonders if there isn't a complete solution to replace ALL the plastic bits with metal bits...
 
the talk track was about how heat affects the cap interface when it's plastic. So you change that to metal; but, the housing is still plastic. Doesn't sound like switching out the cap would be that meaningful.

Also, it seems way too easy for a metal cap to screw up the plastic threads on the housing.

One wonders if there isn't a complete solution to replace ALL the plastic bits with metal bits...
I agree. A metal cap is a recipe for over-torqueing and cracking the housing. I'd rather have the cap crack than the housing.
 
That makes sense. The dissimilar materials and thermal expansion can’t be good. It is never a good idea to have two different materials thread into each other.
 
That makes sense. The dissimilar materials and thermal expansion can’t be good. It is never a good idea to have two different materials thread into each other.
“Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.”

but hey, MODS! MODS AT ALL COSTS!
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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