Recommended oil for tuned engines?

[Mr. Tech]

Hey guys, I'm due for another oil change and wanted to see if there are any recommendations to use a different weight oil with a tuned engine.

I'm running a GT2 AWD with a JB4 and .022 gapped Denso plugs. I usually run Map 1, but occasionally run Map 2. At some point in the near future, I'll be adding intakes and the fuel wires (once the plug and play solution is ready). The last mod will probably be a downpipe, but that's where I plan to stop.

Basically, what are you guys running for oil on your tuned engines?

 

[KLR STINGER]

I've been running 5-40 Pennzoil ultra platinum to good effect. Mods= All of them. Get the Wix WL10237 filters. Much better than the OEM Kia ones.

 

[SteveCo]

The engine and turbo internals haven't changed - same factory bearing clearances, head and block oil passages, fittings, etc. I don't see any reason to second guess the manufacturer's recommended oil viscosity.

 

[SteveCo]

Get the Wix WL10237 filters. Much better than the OEM Kia ones.

Why do you say that WIX is a better filter than the Kia OEM filters made by Mahle, a very reputable manufacturer?

 

[Mr. Tech]

I've been running 5-40 Pennzoil ultra platinum to good effect. Mods= All of them. Get the Wix WL10237 filters. Much better than the OEM Kia ones.

Thanks for the feedback! What makes you say the Wix filters are better? I thought the OEM filters were Wix filters?

Also, this may be a dumb question, I know we can have *W-30 up to *W-50 in our cars. But does it make more sense to have a thicker oil or thinner oil when adding HP? I have access to both 5W-30 and 5W-40.

And did you mean just Pennzoil Ultra, not Ultra Platinum? Ultra Platinum is not Dexos Gen 2 certified to help prevent LSPI in our engines. "Regular" Ultra is Dexos Gen 2 certified.

 

[Mr. Tech]

Why do you say that WIX is a better filter than the Kia OEM filters made by Mahle, a very reputable manufacturer?

Made by Mahle? Where did you hear that?

Now that I'm thinking about it, perhaps the Wix filters were recommended as an OEM replacement, and not the actual OEM. I read it in a forum months ago. I'll have to dig to find it again.

 

[SteveCo]

Made by Mahle? Where did you hear that?

It's written right on the filter - as seen during my last oil change.

 

[Mr. Tech]

It's written right on the filter - as seen during my last oil change.

Ha, I guess that settle that. Thanks!

Also, what have you been using for oil? And is your Stinger tuned?

 

[SteveCo]

Also, what have you been using for oil? And is your Stinger tuned?

My last oil change was Mobile 1 5W-30. I don't have any particular brand allegiance - I've used many full synthetics in various cars, and have no complaints with any of them. I change my oil regularly following the 'extreme usage' schedule laid out by KIA, and always use a name brand full synthetic oil that meets their recommended specifications and viscosity.

For the oil filter I'll be sticking with the OEM part, as KIA chose those German made filters over all other manufacturers to backstop an extremely generous powertrain warranty.

My car isn't tuned currently, although it likely will be at some point in the future. Just waiting to see how a few things pan out over the initial development period ...

 

[Mr. Tech]

Gotcha, yeah the OEM filter seemed to hold up pretty well. I took a look at it after my first oil change at 5k and it still looked perfect. I'll keep inspecting it after each oil change and, as long as it continues to look good, I'll probably stick OEM.

When you eventually get around to it, The JB4 on Map 1 works pretty well for me (on 93 octane). Very noticeably gains in the butt dyno. Map 2 has yielded some odd experiences (weird sounds during shifts, etc.). But no CELs (check engine lights), no blown plugs, etc. For now, I'm sticking with Map 1 until I get the fuel wires, and maybe new intakes.

 

[turboAWD]

The engine and turbo internals haven't changed - same factory bearing clearances, head and block oil passages, fittings, etc. I don't see any reason to second guess the manufacturer's recommended oil viscosity.

If you look at the '18 manual, it recommends about 4 or 5 different viscosity ranges. The '19 manual is down to 2. If they recommended up to 5w40 in the '18 for warmer climates, is it suddenly not allowable anymore in '19? What changed? Or did they change the manual to make it less confusing for the average user?

Personally, I would think that going with 5w30 should be fine, and 5w40 should also be fine, especially if you're in a hotter climate. I wouldn't necessarily go to a 20w50, for example, unless I was racing and knew what I was doing. But it probably wouldn't mess things up too badly either, if it's a good quality oil, just some more friction losses, so you'd see a bit less power.

 

[SteveCo]

If you look at the '18 manual, it recommends about 4 or 5 different viscosity ranges. The '19 manual is down to 2. If they recommended up to 5w40 in the '18 for warmer climates, is it suddenly not allowable anymore in '19? What changed? Or did they change the manual to make it less confusing for the average user?

Could be based on additional data that KIA/Hyundai gathered over the additional year - we'll likely never know. Yamaha did the same thing on a big bore V-twin motorcycle that I had, narrowing their recommended oil viscosities in the OM after the first year, without making any mechanical changes.

I always go with the most current manufacturer recommendations - i.e. the more restrictive 2019 manual guidelines for the Stinger. I was already using 5W-30 anyway, so nothing really changed for me.

 

[Mr. Tech]

If you look at the '18 manual, it recommends about 4 or 5 different viscosity ranges. The '19 manual is down to 2.

Wow, didn't know that. Looks like it'll be 5W-30 for me, then. Thanks!

 

[David Truax]

Amazon Prime Day deal.... Castrol Magnetec 5w-30. 5 gal jug for $10.32 shipped via subscribe & save. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...9a3f80e86e249807d0INT&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

 

[Ritz]

I've been a big fan of using Rotella T6 synthetic 5W-40 going back nearly 20 years of hotrodding turbocharged Audis. It hasn't failed me yet and Walmart always has it in stock for about $20/gallon. I also used it in my normally aspirated A8 and in my current 6.4L Charger. Highly recommended.

Best,

 

[Mr. Tech]

Thanks for all the feedback, guys! I've been using Valvoline full synthetic, mainly because of it's dedicated LSPI research and making a point to talk about it. Could be just a marketing thing, but it's working on me haha. I also just saw Castrol Edge on a prime day deal, might give that a shot because it's also Dexos Gen 2 certified and is formulated specifically to handle the higher pressures of turbo cars.

Maybe I'll do Valvoline again, get it tested, then try another brand, get more testing, etc. until I find the best one for the Stinger. But I'm willing to guess that it doesn't make too big of a difference if I change my oil often enough.

 

[turboAWD]

Amazon had $3 off a jug of Castrol Edge 5W30, so ~$16. I grabbed one - approved for the '16 GTI my wife just got, and works in the Stinger and the '15 Town and Country. None of them need a change soon (well, maybe the van in another month), but mainly for top-ups, etc.. Then again, it was mostly the Legacy that used oil, so this may sit quite some time!

 

[xot1]

I use a 2:1 blend of Motul 300v 0w40 and 5w30.

 

[Mr. Tech]

I use a 2:1 blend of Motul 300v 0w40 and 5w30.

Interesting, what made you want to blend the two oils?

 

[Mr. Tech]

I just found a few scientific oil tests. However, they were done by Amsoil so, of course, their oil is the best in pretty much every test. That aside, the Valvoline seems to perform pretty well. Mobile 1 Extended did surprisingly horrible in the four ball wear test. That is, until I saw this second test, where the Mobile 1 Extended performed very well. Not sure why they got such drastically different results for the same test with the same oil, but still. It seems that most oils are pretty good, with only a few being sub-par.