Rear sway bar - installation

[RM7]

I wouldn't blame any shop for doing it a better way. I also wouldn't want them to be shorting their employees for the actual time it takes. This was not an easy job.

 

[Ruturaj]

It's not unusual to drop the diff a little as it provides easier access to bushings. It's also debatable if the additional time to do same is worth it. Best to agree on a fixed price rather than time based charges. Mine was dealer fitted at a fixed price but actually took longer than originally anticipated (mechanics hadn't done one before).
View attachment 64187

How much did the dealership charge you?

I asked mine and they said they don't know but they charge $200 an hour. Other shops gave me quote for 4-5 hours.

 

[ShannonC]

How much did the dealership charge you?

I asked mine and they said they don't know but they charge $200 an hour. Other shops gave me quote for 4-5 hours.

$275 which included 10% GST.
4-5 hours is way over the top but as it seems they "don't know" its understandable. Front can be done in around 20 minutes and allow maybe an hour or so for rear. Including time taken to get on and off hoist then you're looking at no more than 2hrs.

 

[MerlintheMad]

$200/HR!? Holy crap!?

 

[JSolo]

^^Inflation....

I would negotiate with them.

 

[Ozstung]

$200/HR!? Holy crap!?

They didn't want the job + they factored in covid tax.

 

[JERisBRISK]

One of my local shops quoted me $150/hr and said it’s 1 hour for the front and 3 hours for the rear (including dropping the diff a little). I think like many shops they’ve taken to billing in one hour increments, so if a job takes them 20 minutes or 40 minutes, it’s still billed as “1 hour”.

I might see if I can negotiate a fixed rate for mine, I also have an injen intake I want to install — I might have them do that at the same time and see if they’d throw it in for free given the rounding done in their estimates.

 

[cncBilly]

One of my local shops quoted me $150/hr and said it’s 1 hour for the front and 3 hours for the rear (including dropping the diff a little). I think like many shops they’ve taken to billing in one hour increments, so if a job takes them 20 minutes or 40 minutes, it’s still billed as “1 hour”.

I might see if I can negotiate a fixed rate for mine, I also have an injen intake I want to install — I might have them do that at the same time and see if they’d throw it in for free given the rounding done in their estimates.

Maybe 3hr total if they haven’t done it before. 40 min front and a generous 2hrs20 for the rear

 

[JERisBRISK]

Maybe 3hr total if they haven’t done it before. 40 min front and a generous 2hrs20 for the rear

They have done it before, and recently. He also said the owner of the car argued with him over how long it should take when he explained the 3h rear estimate and the diff drop. That kind of explanation sort of shuts down negotiation, because the offenses of the previous patron get imputed to those who (quite innocently) follow.

I think I’m going to shop around a little and see who else around here will do it and for how much, ideally at a fixed price. (That, too, is getting rarer).

 

[socalvn]

Don't be intimidated by one bolt just do it not that big a deal

 

[JERisBRISK]

Don't be intimidated by one bolt just do it not that big a deal

Haha, thanks. It’s not intimidation so much as lacking all the right tooling to ensure I can get it done before the wife needs to park the car in the garage again.

Been a while since I owned a jack, jack stands, and of course I need to get a wobbly socket and from what I gather a selection of 14mm sockets of varying depth. All of that will have use far beyond this project, and won’t cost as much as a couple hours of my mechanic’s time in all likelihood. (I’m open to tool recommendations, btw.)

Are there specific torque requirements for these bolts, or is it pretty much “make it as sure as you can”?

 

[RM7]

Well you sure as heck ain’t fitting a torque wrench in there.

 

[boosted1g]

Torque specs are as follows:
Front stabilizer bar to sub frame: 36.2 - 47.0 ft/lbs
Front stabilizer bar to front stabilizer link: 72.3 - 86.8 ft/lbs
Rear stabilizer bar to sub frame 36.2 - 47.0 ft/lbs
Rear stabilizer bar to stabilizer link 72.3 - 86.8 ft/lbs


The front is easy because it bolts to subframe with bolts facing down and everything is right there after you take the engine cover off.
The rear is difficult because it bolts to the subframe with bolts facing up (thus giving you limited space between subframe and car body), and because the fuel filler tube blocks your path from the driver wheel well. Thus making your only option for access being from under the car and to bend your 3 elbows around everything in your path.
Because of said obstacles, unless you have the perfect sized 3/8 torque wrench, you are not going to torque down the driver side rear, so just get it good and tight.

I did not drop the differential at all (and I am 6'3" with thick arms), but did remove a couple small covers to gain more room.
I believe I used a deep socket + a 3" wobble extension, and I for sure used a 3/8 wrench with an extra foot of pipe on it. This wrench+pipe combo was much easier to work with vs using a fixed length breaker bar. Naturally an extendable wrench would also work.
Trying to set the socket in place while under the car on jack stands is damn near impossible. This is where a helper makes a very big difference. That way can get it pre-staged on the bolt and the helper can hold it there until you can grab it from under the car.

Imho Eibach does not provide enough grease for the sways (and in my case the rear bar was completely missing the packet of grease).
They do however have zerc fittings so I used this lube with a grease gun: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081JE2PQ
You need silicone based grease for the bushings, your standard red/black bearing grease will damage the bushings over time.

 

[JERisBRISK]

Thanks again for the great guidance, @boosted1g !

I have some of this laying about. Good enough?




As for torque specs — that reminds me, back in the day Haynes manuals were all the rage for DIY maintainers. And the really serious ones managed to get full service manuals for their rides. Are service manuals (or even a Haynes equivalent) available for the 2018 GT2?

I tried some internet searches for such resources but all of the links look incredibly shady. “Install our spyware and we’ll gladly download you a manual, yes yes!”

 

[boosted1g]

Thanks again for the great guidance, @boosted1g !

I have some of this laying about. Good enough?

View attachment 69997


As for torque specs — that reminds me, back in the day Haynes manuals were all the rage for DIY maintainers. And the really serious ones managed to get full service manuals for their rides. Are service manuals (or even a Haynes equivalent) available for the 2018 GT2?

I tried some internet searches for such resources but all of the links look incredibly shady. “Install our spyware and we’ll gladly download you a manual, yes yes!”

That's the stuff, if you can the grease gun method is better because it fills every void, but if not that will get the job done.

Often the forum search gives better results than google: Service Manual
I know there are legit places online to buy them from as well, perhaps someone else knows a decent link, from a quick google i did find this one: KIA Stinger GT AWD 2018 2019 Factory Service Workshop Repair manual
I think I still have an archived ISO of that DSM manual/software CD

 

[JERisBRISK]

I think I still have an archived ISO of that DSM manual/software CD

Thanks! I’m sure I have mine in a box somewhere too…

 

[MerlintheMad]

Are service manuals (or even a Haynes equivalent) available for the 2018 GT2?

kia stinger service manual That's my copy on Dropbox.

 

[JERisBRISK]

Thank you kindly!

 

[JSolo]

Re Grease, try a marine shop. That superlube is pretty thin stuff IMO. Something with more consistency will last longer.

 

[Rodtheviking]

Re Grease, try a marine shop. That superlube is pretty thin stuff IMO. Something with more consistency will last longer.

I have been using Lucas Marine grease for years on stuff, works great.