3.3TT Rear Brakes/Suspension Detail Pictures

[JSolo]

Installed it yourself? What tools were used for the fuel side?

 

[rtv900]

question on the rotors. I see these have those little screws that just kind of hold them in place until you get the caliper back on if you replace the entire rotor.
Did you need an impact screw driver to get those loose or do they come off half decently?
I only had one other car with those and they are essentially impossible to get a phillips head off without an impact.

 

[Volfy]

question on the rotors. I see these have those little screws that just kind of hold them in place until you get the caliper back on if you replace the entire rotor.
Did you need an impact screw driver to get those loose or do they come off half decently?
I only had one other car with those and they are essentially impossible to get a phillips head off without an impact.

If you got some miles on the car, and especially if you live up north, more than likely you'll need an impact screwdriver. Once you have it off, dash a little anti-seize on the threads, so you won't have that problem the next time around. Some folks just leave it off, but I'd rather put it back.

 

[rtv900]

gotcha, thanks
I wasn't sure they even had those little screws but I'm planning on doing rotors relatively soon and would be friggin pissed if I got into the job and didn't have an impact. No idea why no manufacturers use a flathead with an allen instead of phillips, which is essentially impossible to do without an impact. I know there's a 50% chance an allen simply rounds right out with corrosion, but still a better chance than zero.
I got 60k on mine already and live in Pa so when they salt around here they don't mess around

 

[Volfy]

gotcha, thanks
I wasn't sure they even had those little screws but I'm planning on doing rotors relatively soon and would be friggin pissed if I got into the job and didn't have an impact. No idea why no manufacturers use a flathead with an allen instead of phillips, which is essentially impossible to do without an impact. I know there's a 50% chance an allen simply rounds right out with corrosion, but still a better chance than zero.
I got 60k on mine already and live in Pa so when they salt around here they don't mess around

Pretty sure they chose the philips head precisely because they expect you to use an impact screwdriver on it. I've had my set since the 80's. It was one of the very first hand tools I ever bought, and I've kept it since. Use it once in a blue moon, but when I needed it... no better feeling of having the right tool for the right job.

Philips head for this application actually makes a lot of sense. If you gonna whack an impact screwdriver with a hammer, you'd want the bit to be self-centering and to tighten the grip on the screw head as the bit is driven deeper. Philips head does both. Also, in case the impact screwdriver is not being held at true perpendicular, the taper-style bit minimizes the chance of driving a concentrated force on one end of a flat face bit. Flat blade or even Torx bit could be damaged by this.

Mine looks just like the kit below, and I've only ever used the larger (#3) philips bit, IIRC.

 

[JSolo]

When I first got my car I tried to get those out to put antiseize on. Was successfully with all but one or two.

 

[ht_addict]

I had to drill out 2. Picked up some new ones

 

[globalrebel]

The sway bar will slide out from the side it's pretty simple that way it's just the one bolt by the fuel lines it's a little tough to get to and it's not an actual sway bar but it's rigid mounted to the mountings so it's more like a helper spring it's not independent from side to side which was surprising to find that when I removed it

To everyone who may be reading this before doing their sway bars . . . Have a friend help you for taking out and putting in the rear sway bar. Doing that on your own, is not fun. I spent a good 40 minutes trying to manuver the damn thing on my own . . . called a friend over, and we had it out in 2 minutes.