Put more meat on the street

seeyainakia

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Currently running 265/35 PS4S's on the back, which is biggest I could go on stock 19" wheel. Have reached a point in tuning where hooking up is getting hard and hitting second gear is spinning quite a bit. (RWD)
what is MAX RUBBER these cars can fit without rubbing? I already Know will have to go to a 20" wheel so looking for decent, lighter options there too.

Also, also: planning to install a set of Eibach Pro springs too and not sure how that will impact clearance.

Any/all help and info appreciated.
 
Are you just talking about wider tires on the stock wheels? Because your limiting factor there isn't the tire rubbing, it's that the 255s on the 8.5s are already the widest recommended at that size wheel. Some guys are running 275s but that's only 1cm more than you so if your current tires aren't enough you probably want a stickier compound or wider wheels.

19x9.5 will let you run a 285/35 (at 0.9" or 3.5% taller than stock) or a 285/30 (at 0.3" or 1.1% shorter than stock). I think I've seen 9.5s recommended with a +40 offset, which should sit pretty flush since it's 6.5mm further out plus 1/2" or 12.5mm more width, right around where a 20mm spacer puts the stock wheel.
 
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Guess I don't "know" that... Just assuming I couldn't get the largest contact patch on a tire that would fit properly on a 19" wheel, so I would have to get bigger wheels.
 
Guess I don't "know" that... Just assuming I couldn't get the largest contact patch on a tire that would fit properly on a 19" wheel, so I would have to get bigger wheels.
I know this, the deeper the sidewall, the more flex in the tire under acceleration, the less contact patch slip. Your going 20" means higher aspect ratio, stiffer sidewall, quicker contact patch slip, the exact opposite of what you are after. An 18" wheel is the smallest you can go and clear the Brembo calipers, and will give you the deepest sidewalls and resistance to contact patch slip.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Love My 20s and she is stuck to the groundPXL_20240611_003657500.MP~2.webp
 
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This topic can have a whole dissertation written on it. It is a bit more complicated than simply "bigger rims for bigger tire" or " taller sidewall = more flex = better grip". Wheel/tire is part of the suspension. The whole system must be engineered properly for it to yield optimum performance.

Stated simply... 20" wheels can work well. Some sports cars have OEM 20's, needed to clear very large brakes. C8 Corvette's carbon fiber wheels over huge carbon ceramic brake is a good example.
Used-2023-Chevrolet-Corvette-Z06-1689127497.jpg

Ideally, for optimum performance with the lightest weight and lowest rotational inertia, wheels should be no larger than necessary to clear the brakes. Stinger's front Brembo brakes easily fit under just about any 18" wheel. The smaller Brembo in the rear would fit under 17" wheels. Some smart Stinger drag racers do fit big fat 17" drag radial on their rear axle. That is, of course, optimized for straight-line 1/4-mile. Track/AutoX applications and serious canyon carving work better with all 18".

Also, the suspension tuning needs to be matched to the wheels/tires. Problem with the Stinger is that the stock suspension is wayyy underdamped, no doubt meant to give the Stinger a supply enough ride with the OEM 19" wheels and low-profile tires. The consequence is that - when the pace quickens - the soft rebound damping has trouble pressing those low-profile tires (with very little compliance) against the pavement. So the heavy wheel/tire assembly bounces and pogo's over road undulations, breaking traction and losing grip - quite often constantly swapping sides and upsetting the chassis.

Lighter weight wheels HELPS with this. Even larger diameter wheels with even lower-profile tires (less tire compliance) DOES NOT.

You know what does help? Swapping to wider 18" wheels, so you can run much wider tires while maintaining the same aspect ratio. This preserves enough tire compliance to help keep the tread pressed against the tarmac.



You mentioned Eibach pro springs. Yes, they are roughly 10-15% higher spring rate than OEM springs, so they do help... albeit only to a limited degree, because you still have the underdamped OEM shocks trying to control even more massive wheel/tire assemblies. Unfortunately, nobody sells uprated aftermarket adjustable shocks for the Stinger/G70 platform. The only way to get better damping is to go coilovers. Unless, of course, yours has electronic suspension control with Mando controller, which might allow you to firm up the dampers sufficiently. No first hand experiences here, so somebody else can chime in on that.
 
There is a bit more than just my 20s to stick it to the ground as mentioned above this is just one concept that works for me. PXL_20240802_231054376.webp
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
This topic can have a whole dissertation written on it. It is a bit more complicated than simply "bigger rims for bigger tire" or " taller sidewall = more flex = better grip". Wheel/tire is part of the suspension. The whole system must be engineered properly for it to yield optimum performance.

Stated simply... 20" wheels can work well. Some sports cars have OEM 20's, needed to clear very large brakes. C8 Corvette's carbon fiber wheels over huge carbon ceramic brake is a good example.

Ideally, for optimum performance with the lightest weight and lowest rotational inertia, wheels should be no larger than necessary to clear the brakes. Stinger's front Brembo brakes easily fit under just about any 18" wheel. The smaller Brembo in the rear would fit under 17" wheels. Some smart Stinger drag racers do fit big fat 17" drag radial on their rear axle. That is, of course, optimized for straight-line 1/4-mile. Track/AutoX applications and serious canyon carving work better with all 18".

Also, the suspension tuning needs to be matched to the wheels/tires. Problem with the Stinger is that the stock suspension is wayyy underdamped, no doubt meant to give the Stinger a supply enough ride with the OEM 19" wheels and low-profile tires. The consequence is that - when the pace quickens - the soft rebound damping has trouble pressing those low-profile tires (with very little compliance) against the pavement. So the heavy wheel/tire assembly bounces and pogo's over road undulations, breaking traction and losing grip - quite often constantly swapping sides and upsetting the chassis.

Lighter weight wheels HELPS with this. Even larger diameter wheels with even lower-profile tires (less tire compliance) DOES NOT.

You know what does help? Swapping to wider 18" wheels, so you can run much wider tires while maintaining the same aspect ratio. This preserves enough tire compliance to help keep the tread pressed against the tarmac.



You mentioned Eibach pro springs. Yes, they are roughly 10-15% higher spring rate than OEM springs, so they do help... albeit only to a limited degree, because you still have the underdamped OEM shocks trying to control even more massive wheel/tire assemblies. Unfortunately, nobody sells uprated aftermarket adjustable shocks for the Stinger/G70 platform. The only way to get better damping is to go coilovers. Unless, of course, yours has electronic suspension control with Mando controller, which might allow you to firm up the dampers sufficiently. No first hand experiences here, so somebody else can chime in on that.

Great info!
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. Found this resource and thought I'd share. I like that they include mods like springs and stuff. Will probably make my decision based off info found in stingerforum plus this website: https://www.fitmentindustries.com/
 
Tire Rack is another vendor with good info.

Whatever you decide on, pay close attention to the weight of the wheel. Out of all the parameters, that is absolutely the most important. As long as the wheel is sufficiently rated for the load, lighter weight improves EVERYTHING - handling, ride, accel/decel, and even pothole survival.

Another thing to keep in mind is that even if an 20" wheel weighs exactly the same as an 18" wheel, that 1" larger diameter will have about 23% more rotational inertia (I = 1/2 * M * R²). Would you notice that in everyday driving? Most likely not, so you might not care. For those of us who do, it is not an insignificant difference. Rotational inertia's effect isn't just limited to how fast your car can accel/decel. It also influence spin/slip recovery of the wheel/tire. That is pertinent to the discussion at hand.

If I'm spending $$$ on aftermarket wheels, I'd want to maximize the performance gain. Your priorities may differ, of course.
 
Different priorities dictate different approaches. Here's mine.

Just like the C8 OEM setup pictured above, these lightweight 18x8.5's are just large enough to fit over OEM Brembo brakes. Not but a few mm's to spare. ;) Would I go 19" or larger? Sure... but only if I do a Big Brake Kit that needs the added clearance.
RPF1 2.webp

IMG20240113125727.webp
In hindsight, I would've preferred double-adjustables, but these work well enough for most applications.
IMG20240218165840.webp
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
9+20 32 offset 245+35+20
10.5 45 offset 285+30+20 Neg. 5 camber front Neg 1.25 camber back no rubbing

That looks so tight. Thanks for replying. Sorry to bug and this is off topic but what is that rear spoiler and from where?
 
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9+20 32 offset 245+35+20
10.5 45 offset 285+30+20 Neg. 5 camber front Neg 1.25 camber back no rubbing
Thanks for this, looks like they're both about 0.7" taller than stock but well matched with each other, so good for AWD (not sure if you are). And I assume the "Neg. 5 camber front" is 0.5 degrees...
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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