3.3TT Please Help - Check Engine Light WOT

[Nockalous]

Hey guys,

I posted awhile ago about issues with, what I thought was my transmission, however it's evolved so much more since then. The differential was replaced first (by the shittest dealership ever) along with performing a valve clean for me and after 6 months I had issues with my car going into limp mode after accelerating decently hard. The dash would light up like a Christ tree (every single light was yellow basically) and pulling over, restarting the car it would shake and turn off pretty ordinary however start fine. The light would stay there and eventually clear after maybe 3-4 restarts of the car.

I have an after market exhaust (borla and removed secondary cats). Went to a new dealership, they said the code was due to an exhaust leak. Took it back to the muffler Shop and they blocked the pipes ran some tests and said there is no leaks. The new dealership were much better and they took my car for 2 days and said there is some concern with the transmission, dropped the oil and found metal contamination. They replaced the transmission and fast forward two weeks, I drove 1300kms later to let it bed in. I decided to give it some gas after driving slow, was about 2500rpm in 3rd, shifted to second, accelerated up to 5800rpm, left off throttle and held it there for 2 seconds, went to push down again and the car stuttered and boom dash light up like a Christmas tree and went into limp mode.

Dealership is basically saying not sure what else, as the code is saying it's a potential exhaust leak but now two shops have confirmed no leak. I notice a thud when putting it in drive/reverse even after transmission replace.

It's now getting beyond frustrating ( dropping it off, getting picked up etc.) Can anyone help me out here? Appreciate any input.

Thanks Guys

 

[Ozstung]

Boy you still having those problems Nock?! Wow i wish you luck. Can you take it to an Independant high performane mechanic shop?

 

[Nockalous]

Boy you still having those problems Nock?! Wow i wish you luck. Can you take it to an Independant high performane mechanic shop?

Hey Oz! Yep still having issues, honestly becoming a bloody nightmare. Just ordered a g70 but I don't want to pass the issue to a new owner. Good idea - Might see if I can take it to Tekno, dealerships just run off the code and goes "oh it's your after market part", so god damn frustrating.

 

[Ozstung]

Hey Oz! Yep still having issues, honestly becoming a bloody nightmare. Just ordered a g70 but I don't want to pass the issue to a new owner. Good idea - Might see if I can take it to Tekno, dealerships just run off the code and goes "oh it's your after market part", so god damn frustrating.

True too easy for Kia to fob it off. Hope it all works out for you. I'm dealing with an issue where the car pulls to the left. Waiting for a caster kit adjuster on a group buy and hoping thats the fix.

 

[Nockalous]

True too easy for Kia to fob it off. Hope it all works out for you. I'm dealing with an issue where the car pulls to the left. Waiting for a caster kit adjuster on a group buy and hoping thats the fix.

Ah bugger Oz, hope you get it fixed soon - I haven't had that yet so apologies I can't help


As a side note - I had the code pulled and it was P061B00 - Internal Control Module Torque Calculation Performance. Have no mods to the intake or anything, only exhaust. I might pull my intakes apart and make sure everything looks OK this weekend. My performance mechanic who did the exhaust install for me says best bet is check the intakes completely and replace the filters as a first step. If it continues, they will check all the wiring to make sure all has been plugged in correctly.

 

[rpoffen]

Other threads are saying if you remove the cats and don't have better control of the wastegate (say a JB4 with EWG wires), then you are more likely to overboost into limp mode.

 

[5tinger]

What's the build date of your Stinger?

 

[Nockalous]

What's the build date of your Stinger?

I had it incorrect from my signature, April 2018.

 

[Nockalous]

Interesting, okay thanks - the air filters look decently dirty so am replacing these just to narrow things out.

Other threads are saying if you remove the cats and don't have better control of the wastegate (say a JB4 with EWG wires), then you are more likely to overboost into limp mode.

 

[SRV]

Any updates with your issue?

 

[Nockalous]

Any updates with your issue?

Hey SRV, Sorry just realised I never posted an update.

I went to a specialised performance shop and they pulled the code P061B - which is the internal control module torque calculation performance fault. Effectively, the module was unable to match the torque requested from the pedal with the engine. It would throw the car into limp mode as it thinks there is a critical issue and does so to prevent damage (which made sense I only had this issue WOT).

They were not quite sure, but after googling for a while found a probable cause could be air/intakes related. Kia Mechanics were adamant it was due to after market exhaust (classic). I ordered new air filters (even though the performance shop said they were fine), and took the whole air boxes out and made sure there was nothing blocking air flow. One item I did notice was the seal on the right airbox was a tiny bit loose (but I would say its still tight). I replaced the filters, installed the filter boxes back but made sure to securely push it forward so the rubber seal secures around the air intake from the grill and tightened the bolts in this position. Took it for a test drive, seemed like the issue was not coming back. Fast forward 5000km's (3100 miles for my Freedom friends) and I have not had the issue since! The shop originally thought in Kia fashion they did not replace the air filters but they were fine.

Overall, I believe the right air box being about 8mm back caused the issue as the car was not getting enough air and the engine could not meet the torque requested by the pedal (driver). Goes to show its important to make sure the seal is tight! No idea when this would have happened, as I have never touched these and neither would the technicians on the car.

 

[SRV]

Hey SRV, Sorry just realised I never posted an update.

I went to a specialised performance shop and they pulled the code P061B - which is the internal control module torque calculation performance fault. Effectively, the module was unable to match the torque requested from the pedal with the engine. It would throw the car into limp mode as it thinks there is a critical issue and does so to prevent damage (which made sense I only had this issue WOT).

They were not quite sure, but after googling for a while found a probable cause could be air/intakes related. Kia Mechanics were adamant it was due to after market exhaust (classic). I ordered new air filters (even though the performance shop said they were fine), and took the whole air boxes out and made sure there was nothing blocking air flow. One item I did notice was the seal on the right airbox was a tiny bit loose (but I would say its still tight). I replaced the filters, installed the filter boxes back but made sure to securely push it forward so the rubber seal secures around the air intake from the grill and tightened the bolts in this position. Took it for a test drive, seemed like the issue was not coming back. Fast forward 5000km's (3100 miles for my Freedom friends) and I have not had the issue since! The shop originally thought in Kia fashion they did not replace the air filters but they were fine.

Overall, I believe the right air box being about 8mm back caused the issue as the car was not getting enough air and the engine could not meet the torque requested by the pedal (driver). Goes to show its important to make sure the seal is tight! No idea when this would have happened, as I have never touched these and neither would the technicians on the car.

What a story, thanks for the follow up!

Good thing you decided to replace the filters, otherwise, you would have never noticed the rubber seal.

Nice job!

 

[Nockalous]

What a story, thanks for the follow up!

Good thing you decided to replace the filters, otherwise, you would have never noticed the rubber seal.

Nice job!

Thanks! I know. But the absolute shocking thing? It took Kia over a year and still never found out the issue. The performance shop was great, I did not pay for the service so they didn't investigate further (they did a free of charge code pull and gave some advice). Really frustrating, as I literally have not replaced anything in the engine bay!

Oh well, a bit of FYI for any owners, make sure the air boxes are securely pushed forward! Even an 8mm movement back caused this issue (but the box was still secure on the intake plastic).

 

[MrE]

Thank goodness! I'm very happy for you. I can only imagine this must have been endlessly frustrating for you - brand new car, supposed to be a high performance supercar, and its been constantly letting you down.

A damn shame the professionals at the dealership couldn't sort this bloody thing out, but very pleased you've now got it working properly.

 

[MerlintheMad]

Oh well, a bit of FYI for any owners, make sure the air boxes are securely pushed forward! Even an 8mm movement back caused this issue (but the box was still secure on the intake plastic).

This is so counter-intuitive: something so simple can cause that much trouble?! (What about that G70 you ordered? )

 

[henrocdotnet]

Something similar happened to me this morning -- I have no idea what's going on. I have the car sitting with the battery disconnected.

So far I've added a catch can, GFB blow off values, and K&N air filters (for the stock intake air boxes).

From OBD scanner:

P061B - Internal Control Module Torque Calculation Performance
P0068 - MAP/MAF - Throttle Position Correlation
P0106 - Rationality

The catch can and BOV have been on the car since early December and I haven't had any issues. The K&N filters have only been on for about a week. Is it possible it could be something as silly as replacement air filters?

I'm going to go check the air box connections ... my car only has 5200 miles on it and this is really worrying. I had to pull over on the highway this morning and limped, limped, limped back home.

 

[rpoffen]

Something similar happened to me this morning -- I have no idea what's going on. I have the car sitting with the battery disconnected.

So far I've added a catch can, GFB blow off values, and K&N air filters (for the stock intake air boxes).

From OBD scanner:

P061B - Internal Control Module Torque Calculation Performance
P0068 - MAP/MAF - Throttle Position Correlation
P0106 - Rationality

The catch can and BOV have been on the car since early December and I haven't had any issues. The K&N filters have only been on for about a week. Is it possible it could be something as silly as replacement air filters?

I'm going to go check the air box connections ... my car only has 5200 miles on it and this is really worrying. I had to pull over on the highway this morning and limped, limped, limped back home.

Maybe one of the BOV's failed.
You didn't way what year/trim you have, but with only 5200 miles, should still be under warranty.

 

[henrocdotnet]

Thank you for your reply! I've got a 2022 GT2 Scorpion. The catch can was full, I emptied it and let it idle for a little while. So far so good.

I've only taken it on a short drive as a test, school pickup is coming up soon, hopefully it doesn't go full mayday limp mode on the highway again (I'm assuming it was limp mode, my previous car was a Corolla).

I've had one of the BOVs get stuck open a couple times -- I lose all turbo boost but no check engine light (or error codes). Restarting the car fixes that issue. I've bought some synthetic grease but haven't gotten around to cleaning and reinstalling.

I'm a bit worried about my "mods" though, not sure how the dealer will respond to the can and BOVs, oil change is due basically now.

 

[rpoffen]

Thank you for your reply! I've got a 2022 GT2 Scorpion. The catch can was full, I emptied it and let it idle for a little while. So far so good.

I've only taken it on a short drive as a test, school pickup is coming up soon, hopefully it doesn't go full mayday limp mode on the highway again (I'm assuming it was limp mode, my previous car was a Corolla).

I've had one of the BOVs get stuck open a couple times -- I lose all turbo boost but no check engine light (or error codes). Restarting the car fixes that issue. I've bought some synthetic grease but haven't gotten around to cleaning and reinstalling.

I'm a bit worried about my "mods" though, not sure how the dealer will respond to the can and BOVs, oil change is due basically now.

There are reports that the 2022 incorrectly detects an overboost condition and goes into limp mode. It is exacerbated when some exhaust mods are done, but a couple stock ones have had the issue.
Sounds like a dealer trip to me, none of your mods should be a problem.

 

[henrocdotnet]

There are reports that the 2022 incorrectly detects an overboost condition and goes into limp mode. It is exacerbated when some exhaust mods are done, but a couple stock ones have had the issue.
Sounds like a dealer trip to me, none of your mods should be a problem.

The catch can dumping gunk could cause an issue? I read about it on another forum. On the road at the moment but will link it when. I can.