I got my Stinger on Thursday, finally arrived after sitting in Alabama for a few weeks waiting for delivery truck to ship it. So today I dedicated to really cleaning it and protecting it.
This is it getting off the truck
Looks pretty clean. I could not find any of the usual dealer treatments like swirl marks, or paint chipping whatsoever.
So first step is to give it a good wash, and then put some Ironx on the car to get off any ferrite particles stuck to the paint. It turns red/purple on any of these materials as it loosens them off. Kinda hard to see from the picture but actually a decent mount.
That is one section of the hood and then after cleaning off the ironx I proceed to clay bar. To my amazement, in just half the hood this is how much came off.
When I got my Golf R, it was less than that for the entire car, let alone half the hood. It was at this point I realized I was in for a bit of work. It took several passes with ironx and clay bar to get rid of 98% of contanamints stuck to the paint. I was stunned how much kept coming off. This was a "new" car.
After that, used some car pro eraser to make sure the paint was surgically clean to apply coating. Just like painting, any dust or oils left from all this work will lessen the coating ability to stick to adhere to the paint.
I went with kamikaze line of products as it is highly recommended, and many "pro" detailers use these products, at the same time its possible for us consumers to get our hands on them.
2 coats of miyabl which is stupid easy to apply and take off. One of the simplest coatings i've used. Apply, wait about 10 minutes and buff off. It comes off with same ease as carnuba wax.
After that, I applied 1 thick coat of ISM. This stuff is a bit different, I understand now why they say it is for "pro detailers only" on it. It goes on quite thick, so it is very grabby, it pulls on your applicator making it hard to apply an even coat. It is also harder to tell when to take it off, so waited about 6 minutes which is what it states. It also doesn't flash like most other coatings, it "sweats" so has this dripping liquid type look to it.
Takes a lot more elbow grease and a few plush microfiber towels to remove. Since it was so hard to see what areas were done and buffed, and which weren't buffed completely I did miss a stop on the edge of the hood. Luckily it had only been sitting 30mins so didn't full cure, but I couldn't buff it out. Reading online they say just put more of this stuff down and let it sit, then buff... thank god that worked.
Miyabi has a different type of shine as well. More of a deep darkening look. ISM is definitely more of a hard candy shine.
Had this dog there to supervise everything.
Iphone doesn't really pick up the finish product well, especially as the sun was setting.
I will say this color is definitely interesting. It is gray but does have some blueish hue going on in different shades of light.
My guess is the car had been sitting out with the dealer for quite sometime, it had under 20 miles on it so it wasn't driven a ton. Whoever they had detail it did an above average job, didn't mess up the paint, left it pretty clean.
This is it getting off the truck
Looks pretty clean. I could not find any of the usual dealer treatments like swirl marks, or paint chipping whatsoever.
So first step is to give it a good wash, and then put some Ironx on the car to get off any ferrite particles stuck to the paint. It turns red/purple on any of these materials as it loosens them off. Kinda hard to see from the picture but actually a decent mount.
That is one section of the hood and then after cleaning off the ironx I proceed to clay bar. To my amazement, in just half the hood this is how much came off.
When I got my Golf R, it was less than that for the entire car, let alone half the hood. It was at this point I realized I was in for a bit of work. It took several passes with ironx and clay bar to get rid of 98% of contanamints stuck to the paint. I was stunned how much kept coming off. This was a "new" car.
After that, used some car pro eraser to make sure the paint was surgically clean to apply coating. Just like painting, any dust or oils left from all this work will lessen the coating ability to stick to adhere to the paint.
I went with kamikaze line of products as it is highly recommended, and many "pro" detailers use these products, at the same time its possible for us consumers to get our hands on them.
2 coats of miyabl which is stupid easy to apply and take off. One of the simplest coatings i've used. Apply, wait about 10 minutes and buff off. It comes off with same ease as carnuba wax.
After that, I applied 1 thick coat of ISM. This stuff is a bit different, I understand now why they say it is for "pro detailers only" on it. It goes on quite thick, so it is very grabby, it pulls on your applicator making it hard to apply an even coat. It is also harder to tell when to take it off, so waited about 6 minutes which is what it states. It also doesn't flash like most other coatings, it "sweats" so has this dripping liquid type look to it.
Takes a lot more elbow grease and a few plush microfiber towels to remove. Since it was so hard to see what areas were done and buffed, and which weren't buffed completely I did miss a stop on the edge of the hood. Luckily it had only been sitting 30mins so didn't full cure, but I couldn't buff it out. Reading online they say just put more of this stuff down and let it sit, then buff... thank god that worked.
Miyabi has a different type of shine as well. More of a deep darkening look. ISM is definitely more of a hard candy shine.
Had this dog there to supervise everything.
Iphone doesn't really pick up the finish product well, especially as the sun was setting.
I will say this color is definitely interesting. It is gray but does have some blueish hue going on in different shades of light.
My guess is the car had been sitting out with the dealer for quite sometime, it had under 20 miles on it so it wasn't driven a ton. Whoever they had detail it did an above average job, didn't mess up the paint, left it pretty clean.
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