Little rust spots from brake dust

[Trottzstinger]

Hello to all my stinger friends.Since you all helped me out so much on my last question here is another one....i have the pearl white stinger and i have all little rust spots everywhere from break dust what can i use to clean it off

 

[CeramicGT001]

It’s rail dust, best way to remove is iron remover spray or if you want to get more in depth claybar. I also just use bug tar remover when I find some on the doors or back end.

 

[Trottzstinger]

I was told also to use a fallout cleaner...wash entire car with fallout with proper ratio (mix) then wash car again with your regular car wash also to remember to use different mit to wash car

 

[Manchuz]

Claybar works. Gotta put some muscle in it. Downfalls of owning a white car. Just took my car into a touchless car wash and it had no effect in removing those rust spots, but helped show how many I got on my car now that it's clean.

 

[SoCalSHO]

Try some of this, maybe with a clay bar, dependant on how bad it is.

Adam's Iron Remover

Eliminate those pesky orange brake dust dots on your paint and remove contamination. Adam’s Iron Remover is an acid-free, pH-balanced formulation designed to effectively decontaminate paint and finished surfaces.

adamspolishes.com

 

[Trottzstinger]

Thanks alot for all the help

 

[RedCal]

As others have said - Iron remover / fallout cleaner - you can get it at Canadian Tire

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/autoglym-magma-0396166p.html?_br_psugg_q=magma

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/sonax-fallout-cleaner-500-ml-0390505p.html?_br_psugg_q=sonax

White cars show it the most, so you will need to work it into you washing routine once and a while

 

[jaycevs]

I used most of a 1 liter bottle of iron X on this past weekend, not cheap but was surprised how much iron was on my car after 18000 miles. They make a soap with it, but I have not tried it.

Also, I use a product thats been around for a long time (Klasse All in One), which is a cleaner/polish/protectant with no abrasives. A tiny amount of it removes the spots easily.

 

[Revvdmedia]

CarPro Iron X works a treat. I used it twice a year on my Stinger prior to detailing. The brake dust rust spots were REALLY bad during/after each winter.

Fair warning - it STANKS.

 

[Manchuz]

Agreed, these Iron X products help make the removal process easier, but I still gotta do some wax on, wax off magic to get those spots out.

 

[hummus]

Another vote for iron remover first (after washing), followed possibly by clay, and then possibly by polish, and then absolutely by wax or some other protectant. Adams iron remover doesn't smell very bad, in my experience.

If you clay before using iron remover, you will likely have to make more passes and/or apply more pressure to remove the metallic contaminants--not good, since that can mar your paint or at least make the process longer and more tedious.

A full paint correction, as I understand it, is: wash, decontaminate, correct, and protect.

Wash is self explanatory; if you are doing a full correction, you may want to use a strip wash to remove prior sacrificial protection layers (wax, sealant, coating).

Decontaminate is where you remove what washing leaves behind, and is the job of bug/tar remover, iron remover, and clay--with clay as the last step. These will likely remove what is left of any sacrificial protection layers. FYI, synthetic clay, which is sold either in bar/pad and towel format, is much easier to use than natural clay.

Correction is the job of polish and/or compound, and is where you level any imperfections in your clear coat from driving and from the prior steps.

Protection is also self explanatory. A high quality protective layer, combined with proper maintenance, should reduce/delay the need for future decontamination, etc.