KIA STINGER WHITELINE Sway Bars and Endlinks

[Peter Biller]

I've installed the rear bar as is (see post above). Everything went fine. The driver side was a bit of a pain but with a fine tooth ratchet with adjustable head (Amazon: GearWrench 81230F 4 Piece Full Polish Flex Handle Ratchet Set) you'll have enough room to get the forward nut off the bracket.

The adjustable links again were too short, also see above. The bar has enough space however to where a 3/4 inch short link makes no difference.

The results are outstanding! It's a night and day difference. The squishy roll in turns is gone, grip around uneven turns is much improved, turn-in is better and the car feel lighter yet. I really don't know why Kia has not set up the car like this to start with. Straight line comfort might be a bit softer actually as the bars (front and back) freely rotate in their bushings. The stock ones are fixed in the factory bushings and there is some resistance to the bar to rotation once you unlink them, similar to a torsion spring set up. Not sure if that makes a difference in ride quality though....I can't tell.

I'll drive for a while and see how I like things and then possibly switch to the stiffer setting.

A note on the links. The threaded bolt is quite a bit thinner than the stock links and I doubt that they are stronger than the adjustable links. Time will tell...

 

[turboAWD]

Now if I could only figure out Whiteline vs Eibach..

 

[ScottyCole]

I have front and rear Eibach sway bars installed with Whiteline front and rear links. Makes a big difference than stock.

 

[Stinger GT SS]

I have front and rear Eibach sway bars installed with Whiteline front and rear links. Makes a big difference than stock.

I have the same set up & totally agree with your comment.

 

[Kazz]

Looking forward to your resolution @Peter Biller
Sway bars are next on my list.

Yer gonna love 'em.

 

[DirtyDave]

Now if I could only figure out Whiteline vs Eibach..

I was trying to make this decision also. Became an easy one once I found out the Eibachs have a grease nipple, Whitelines do not.

 

[CKeeler]

I was trying to make this decision also. Became an easy one once I found out the Eibachs have a grease nipple, Whitelines do not.

I just put the whiteline front bar on and I just put some ceramic grease on the front bushings. Zero noise

 

[DirtyDave]

I have the same set up & totally agree with your comment.

Glad to hear this, same setup I'm going with. Just waiting for front sway bar to come in.

 

[Stinger GT SS]

Glad to hear this, same setup I'm going with. Just waiting for front sway bar to come in.

Well you won’t regret it, handling is lifted to another level & I love it....enjoy

 

[Zotto]

I have the same set up & totally agree with your comment.

Question - was there a noticeable difference between having the ebiachs first then adding end links after? If you went that route.

Thanks!

 

[ScottyCole]

Question - was there a noticeable difference between having the ebiachs first then adding end links after? If you went that route.

Thanks!

I had them both installed at the same time. I would not have done it different. Sway bars will make a big difference than stock, but you can always add front and rear links later. Adding them will just make the car much better... I would add them at the same time.

 

[Zotto]

Ok. Well I am going with the springs and sways first and then see about the end links after I have tested the car.

Thanks

 

[Peter Biller]

Ok. Well I am going with the springs and sways first and then see about the end links after I have tested the car.

Thanks

Unless you mess with the ride height drastically and have clearance issues or have an as symmetrical sway bar, adjustable links are not really necessary. The stock sway bars have fixed bushings that act somewhat like a torsion spring, Eibachs and Whiteline bars are not fixed in their bushings and rotate freely in them so messing with the length of the end links does nothing but allow to eliminate any preloading.

I'm not quite convinced that the Whiteline end links are stronger or better than stock. The steel end bolts that thread into the aluminum body of the links are quite a bit thinner than any part of the stock links and aluminum of course only has a weight advantage but is much weaker. Especially having a threaded part vs solid construction is a concern to me. However, the fact that they are adjustable allowed for the rear bars assymetrical construction to be dialed out. I'm not sure if my Whiteline rear bar was supposed to be assymetrical or if it was a manufacturing defect.

Time will tell how the links hold up.

 

[Kazz]

I'm flat thrilled with my Eibach sways and Whiteline endlinks. I believe it's the flexing difference between the OEM and the Whiteline endlinks that make the difference. Plus, the front Whiteline endlinks at their longest, safe adjustment are about 0.5" shorter than OEM.

 

[CKeeler]

Just installed my rear Whiteline bar yesterday. Love it. Now I’ve got front and rear on soft and it’s still worlds better. I’m holding out for Moog endlinks

 

[NICK_KHAR]

For those wondering if theres a huge difference from whiteline to oem links

The OEM Links are pretty thin and flex ESPECIALLY if you have aftermarket sway bars

Heres a customer that bent his OEM links

 

[Peter Biller]

For those wondering if theres a huge difference from whiteline to oem links

The OEM Links are pretty thin and flex ESPECIALLY if you have aftermarket sway bars

Heres a customer that bent his OEM links

View attachment 29134

Hi Nick. Thanks for the picture. I have an AWD Stinger. The links are too short by about an inch actually, compared to stock (front and back). I believe what is currently sold might fit the lower RWD setup only. In had to thread them out to their allowable max length and they are still too short by quite a bit. The threaded bolt below the joint is thinner than the stock links (not saying they are weaker...could be better steel) but the treaded portion engaging into the aluminum link is only 13 mm. That is the weak link IMO. I'd like the threads to be fully engaged or at least more than 1/2 inch as that doesn't seem to be much going into aluminum.
Next time I'm under the car I'll see if the bars have any clearance issues with the links fully threaded and set at no preload. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks

 

[Kazz]

Whiteline themselves say 13-14mm is the minimum. At that, the front is 0.5" shorter in my experience. I didn't compare the rear as a quick eyeball told me they were very close to OEM. I own an AWD, as well.

The important test would be fine-tuning preload with the endlinks. I would think that during that process you'd quickly discover whether the links are too short. One turns the turnbuckle each direction trying to find the spot where turning has the least resistance. If you had to keep unscrewing it and it never got to the point of least resistance, then it could be said they may be too short. I don't know of anyone that's made that fine of an adjustment yet.

Very interested to hear what you find!

 

[Peter Biller]

Whiteline themselves say 13-14mm is the minimum. At that, the front is 0.5" shorter in my experience. I didn't compare the rear as a quick eyeball told me they were very close to OEM. I own an AWD, as well.

The important test would be fine-tuning preload with the endlinks. I would think that during that process you'd quickly discover whether the links are too short. One turns the turnbuckle each direction trying to find the spot where turning has the least resistance. If you had to keep unscrewing it and it never got to the point of least resistance, then it could be said they may be too short. I don't know of anyone that's made that fine of an adjustment yet.

Very interested to hear what you find!

I'm ok with it all if the bars don't cause clearance issues when the links are fully engaged into the threads, or almost at least. Getting them to no preload is only a matter of getting them close to no resistance as you've mentioned. I'll try the stiff setting also...that would make the bars rotate even more away from stock but it might work. I'll keep you posted.

 

[Zotto]

Unless you mess with the ride height drastically and have clearance issues or have an as symmetrical sway bar, adjustable links are not really necessary. The stock sway bars have fixed bushings that act somewhat like a torsion spring, Eibachs and Whiteline bars are not fixed in their bushings and rotate freely in them so messing with the length of the end links does nothing but allow to eliminate any preloading.

I'm not quite convinced that the Whiteline end links are stronger or better than stock. The steel end bolts that thread into the aluminum body of the links are quite a bit thinner than any part of the stock links and aluminum of course only has a weight advantage but is much weaker. Especially having a threaded part vs solid construction is a concern to me. However, the fact that they are adjustable allowed for the rear bars assymetrical construction to be dialed out. I'm not sure if my Whiteline rear bar was supposed to be assymetrical or if it was a manufacturing defect.

Time will tell how the links hold up.

Thanks Peter for your input! I get my setup install next week then i am off to BC to some old stomping grounds with serious corners - I cant wait and will report back the good or the bad - I fathom it will all be good!