Go Fast Bits works well for me. Also, as mentioned before, they have nothing to do with “lag”. If someone’s having issues with lag they’ve done something wrong.
I have a question about the GFB MACH2 BOV’s. I got a set used on OfferUp band I’m thinking these are not for the Kia stinger GT. Can anyone verify that these are and how do they not leak when the flange is different? Any help here would be highly appreciated.
I’m sure this will be an unpopular reply (seems to be that a lot of people had issues) but I went with the Tial BOV with A 6Lb spring. Now was I having any issues with the stock diverters. The answer is “no” or “not really”. But where do I notice the difference with the Tial BOV. Well let’s start with what others have said: I have a fairly serious tune, and on top of that I’m RWD. What does this mean? My car can start to walk on me all the way up to 4th gear (depends on the circumstance). In those instances you need to let off the throttle a bit, and then get back into it. With the stock diverters, there was perceptible “lag” in getting the twins to spool back up. With the Tial, it holds the pressure a slight bit longer. When I get back on the throttle, it’s almost like no boost loss at all. In fact sometimes it’s scary how quickly it recovers. Do I notice a difference when shifting at WOT? Not really. As I stated others have had trouble with the Tial valve not opening or closing at the right time. But I’ve never had those issues. The Tial is also not that loud! I mean you do hear it vent if you are really pushing a lot of boost, but otherwise it just operates efficiently. That’s my experience anyways. Hope it helps.
I’m sure this will be an unpopular reply (seems to be that a lot of people had issues) but I went with the Tial BOV with A 6Lb spring. Now was I having any issues with the stock diverters. The answer is “no” or “not really”. But where do I notice the difference with the Tial BOV. Well let’s start with what others have said: I have a fairly serious tune, and on top of that I’m RWD. What does this mean? My car can start to walk on me all the way up to 4th gear (depends on the circumstance). In those instances you need to let off the throttle a bit, and then get back into it. With the stock diverters, there was perceptible “lag” in getting the twins to spool back up. With the Tial, it holds the pressure a slight bit longer. When I get back on the throttle, it’s almost like no boost loss at all. In fact sometimes it’s scary how quickly it recovers. Do I notice a difference when shifting at WOT? Not really. As I stated others have had trouble with the Tial valve not opening or closing at the right time. But I’ve never had those issues. The Tial is also not that loud! I mean you do hear it vent if you are really pushing a lot of boost, but otherwise it just operates efficiently. That’s my experience anyways. Hope it helps.
I also went with the large single tial valve with anticipation of running higher boost levels with the jb4. In my experience with autox the more efficiently the valve vents it prevents backpressure that would otherwise slow the compressor wheels, causing what can be described as lag on the now required spool up, and autox can have a lot of quick throttle-brake-throttle transitions.
an alternative ... stock BOV's, 3D printed horns (some rubber tubing to connect them), and some furniture leg rubber caps (to cap off the airbox connections) ...
cheap BOV noise and easier to put back to stock for a dealer visit ...
Ok, I am new here this is my first post -
I know there is no benefit of the BOVs. Who cares.
I want to be like HAN as said before - I am out on the Tial - - I see the bits one has some votes from 2 people - Anyone else have good luck (*loud noise) with these things
Follow up : How are the cars holding up guys with the mods ?
So I never had BOV in mind during my build, until I kept blowing off my charge pipe. Like others have written, my setup is tune heavy (see my signature), and my 0-60 runs I was at 22-24 lbs of boost constantly. I have a -12% shift point on my Lozic TCU which helps maintain a smooth boost curve under WOT.
After some research, I found the BOV is best fit for higher boosted cars to protect your charge pipes from decoupling from all the back end boost after letting off throttle. Doesn’t help with turbo lag, may actually make it worse. Since adding the BOV, I haven’t had an issue with my charge pipes at all, I’ve ran it similarly hard on passes to test it out.
I ended up getting the ADD W1 BOV pro. Why this you may ask? … I like the colors. That’s why. BOV will vent to atmosphere when you let off the throttle, that’s what they were designed to do. I wasn’t really picky besides on color choice to match the rest of the engine. I have no dog in the fight for BOV besides mixy matchy. They make some good noise going pshhhhhhh, I feel safer driving my car now and charge pipes have held the entire time.
The GFB are pretty loud if you add the whistle trumpets like I did.
Loud enough to get me pulled over traveling in MT on a hard upshift from 1st gear.
Sound like launching photon torpedoes from the Starship Enterprise.
You can definitely startle the pants off of other drivers with em. But also very subdued if drivin mildly.
My wife never even hears them when she drives.
Both of you are great - thank you. I dont want any performance from them at all. I just like the HAN sound. Had a supra 93' had some TURBO XS super louds on it.
Your car pics are extremely clean. Thank you for sharing. Would you do the TCU, and ECU at the same time ?
SHAPOOPIEZ - how open do you keep them ? Which ones do you have the manual ones or the ones with the remote dial ?
I have the Mach2's full vent to atmo.
With the trumpets. They are adjusted about a quarter turn looser then out of the box. They seem to work well in that configuration with minimal bleed off under low boost.
looser meaning "less" - or "more" than out of the box. That isnt an exact science. My box will be diff . than yours. Do you have yours as more or less ? boostie sound