Intake or jb4 first

[Vladec]

Probably a dumb question but I ran across a couple posts where people had issues with the jb4 after the addition in the cold air intake? Never really did anything to cars other then wire up sounds systems 15+ years ago

 

[PUNKIN]

I was up in the air on which to do first. After pulling a stock intake box and hose off, I decided to do intakes first. The stock intake tube and box look restrictive, so why add power through a choke point? I have the K&N intakes on and can really feel and hear the difference below 4500rpm. Pulls harder off the line. Not sure of top end gain but it should be reasonable. With the JB4 next, I should be able to take advantage of the added air flow.

I’ve built LS trucks for years and their stock intake is good to @500whp before it becomes a restriction, so I’m not someone who believes all vehicles need an aftermarket intake. In the case of the stinger, I think it benefits.

 

[NS_Stinger]

If you're talking bang for your buck it's 100% JB4 if you ask me. Way more HP and TQ per dollar going that route versus an intake.

 

[cncBilly]

Done both. Went intake first simple because I have a serious adversity to air flow restriction. No regrets for the route I took. Very happy with both mods.

 

[HerbieTheCar]

I went with a JB4 first due to the dollar to horsepower gain. It was around the same price between the JB4 w/ Bluetooth and the Injen CAI. I'm currently running on Map2 with 91 Octane. The power increase is substantial and the butterfly feeling when you floor the accelerator came back. Since I haven't dyno'd my car, I'm not sure what the exact gains are but according to BMS, the gain with no modifications is about +54.5 WHP with Map2 and +63.28 WHP gain with Map2 & fuel control on what I assume is an RWD Stinger. AWD will be 5% lower but the gain is substantial.

I'm getting the Intake next since you can potentially hit 420 WHP with a CAI & 91 Octane on Map2

Dyno charts here: Kia / Hyundai Turbo JB4 w/ Fuel Control Wires & Billet Enclosure

 

[Toddasaurus]

OP, you'll be good either way. I got my JB4 first, and the gains were solid in and of themselves! I put in an AEM intake next, and I felt even more gains (though not as much as the JB4), and it sounds a lot meaner now as a little bonus.

No problems with the intake combined with the JB4. If others have had problems, then they most likely did something wrong.

Let us know what you decide to do! I'm sure you'll be happy with whichever one you put in first.

 

[Vladec]

Good to know..... what's your guys approach on spark plugs?

 

[HerbieTheCar]

Good to know..... what's your guys approach on spark plugs?

I went with Denso spark plugs from Burgertuning.com
I went with 0.022" gap with the Densos and gapped the OEM ones to 0.026", stored in my trunk as backup.
The changing and installation of spark plugs was a pain in the ass. Took me and my neighbor a little bit over 3 hours from gapping the plugs to closing the hood. Granted, we spent an hour searching for a coil pack screw that fell between the turbo and the engine, but it was still a decently lengthy job.

You'll get two responses here regarding spark plugs:
1. Replace OEM plugs with HKS or Denso plugs gapped to 0.022" or their personal preference. (BMS recommends 0.022" on Denso spark plugs for maximum/optimal performance) Or,
2. Run with OEM plugs until it starts misfiring or re-gap OEM plugs to 0.026" and run it until misfiring occurs.

It's all up to how you want to modify your car and how deep your wallet is.

 

[Vladec]

Awesome, yea I read the hks plugs are already gapped. Did you change out your plugs after or before your jb4 install? I noticed the heat rating on the recommended hks plugs is 2 levels up. The stock ones have a heat rating of "7". From what I've read online higher performance motors require higher heat ratings. I noticed HKS offers a plug with a "7" and "8" rating. Whats the effect of using a plug with a 9 rating in a stock stinger for example? Is the necessary if your not your going to map beyond 1 or 2?

 

[Satansfist]

So the JB4 will adjust fuelling to suit any new freer flowing intake?

 

[Toddasaurus]

Awesome, yea I read the hks plugs are already gapped. Did you change out your plugs after or before your jb4 install? I noticed the heat rating on the recommended hks plugs is 2 levels up. The stock ones have a heat rating of "7". From what I've read online higher performance motors require higher heat ratings. I noticed HKS offers a plug with a "7" and "8" rating. Whats the effect of using a plug with a 9 rating in a stock stinger for example? Is the necessary if your not your going to map beyond 1 or 2?

Using colder plugs (ie heat range of 8 or 9) will conduct *more* heat away from end of the plug than a hotter running plug (ie a lower number heat range). If a plug gets too hot, it can fry and damage the electrode, then cause misfires and eventually plug failure. It can cause knock. On the other end of the spectrum, if a plug is too cold, it will conduct away too much heat and the plug won't be able to self clean....deposits build up very quickly, and then you get misfires and horrible performance.

All of the above said, not only must you select the right heat range for how much additional power you'll be making, but also your driving style (ie driving hard constantly may necessitate a colder plug even if your car is stock).

Now, the nice thing we need to keep in mind with our engines is that they have a lot of features that both prevent knock and prevent the combustion chamber from running super hot. Direct injection, sodium filled exhaust valves (even the stems are filled), a very efficient combustion chamber design, variable intake and exhaust valve timing, etc etc.

In the end, if you use a plug heat range that's equivalent to a 9, relative to the NGK heat scale, it will probably be too cold for a stock engine.

 

[Toddasaurus]

So the JB4 will adjust fuelling to suit any new freer flowing intake?

Yup. But you don't even need the JB4 for that. The stock ECU is smart enough to adjust for pretty much any and all bolt-ons. You'll just get even more power with the JB4.

 

[Vladec]

Using colder plugs (ie heat range of 8 or 9) will conduct *more* heat away from end of the plug than a hotter running plug (ie a lower number heat range). If a plug gets too hot, it can fry and damage the electrode, then cause misfires and eventually plug failure. It can cause knock. On the other end of the spectrum, if a plug is too cold, it will conduct away too much heat and the plug won't be able to self clean....deposits build up very quickly, and then you get misfires and horrible performance.

All of the above said, not only must you select the right heat range for how much additional power you'll be making, but also your driving style (ie driving hard constantly may necessitate a colder plug even if your car is stock).

Now, the nice thing we need to keep in mind with our engines is that they have a lot of features that both prevent knock and prevent the combustion chamber from running super hot. Direct injection, sodium filled exhaust valves (even the stems are filled), a very efficient combustion chamber design, variable intake and exhaust valve timing, etc etc.

In the end, if you use a plug heat range that's equivalent to a 9, relative to the NGK heat scale, it will probably be too cold for a stock engine.

That was a killer response. So is it safe to say that if I don't plan going above map 2 I would be good with the hks at an 8 heat range. I like to drive the car fairly hard but I'm in southern California so I find myself stuck in traffic a good part of the time

 

[Toddasaurus]

That was a killer response. So is it safe to say that if I don't plan going above map 2 I would be good with the hks at an 8 heat range. I like to drive the car fairly hard but I'm in southern California so I find myself stuck in traffic a good part of the time

Yup, I think you'd be pretty safe with that, and you'd still have room for more power later on if you want.

Good luck!

 

[Vladec]

Awesome Todd, I really appreciate all the input. Thanks again!

 

[Daniel @ K8 Stinger Store]

I have always installed bolt-ons first and then included tune after but that is more of just a personal preference. In my mind, if I can put each bolt-on part separately, I can troubleshoot any issues that might come up before the tune is on. If you are purely searching for performance, the JB4 will give you the most immediate power for sure. It will depend on what you are searching for and your preference. Another thing I like to do when modifying a stock car is to enjoy each additional piece for a little while and fall in love with the car again and again then finalizing everything with a big power boost towards the end of my performance quest.

Either way, I would be happy to give you a great discount on an intake such as the Injen or work with you on a discount for the JB4 and spark plus as well. Just shoot me a message and we can get you started ASAP.

 

[Vladec]

That sounds awesome but how do I send someone a message on here?

 

[Daniel @ K8 Stinger Store]

That sounds awesome but how do I send someone a message on here?

No worries I will set it up right now

 

[JW Stringer]

Interesting thread as these are the mods I consider. Definitely sold on doing intake. The sound is enough to justify that any day in my book, and is definitely first up, but still a bit hesitant on the tuner.
Only done exhaust / intake on prior vehicles so a bit worried about 'blowing the engine' so to speak but this seems quite unlikely.
For $1k or so looks like good deal, no really good, for big gains that would take considerably more money going any other route.
Re: plug change...read about the three hour ordeal above, that scares me a bit too. Last thoughts that come to mind was an IDK how many hours changing plugs, wires, coils packs on an Avalanche as those 2 plugs at the rear of the engine were way far up under the dash and a
B to get to. Is that the case here? Plugs hard to access? Can't xactly call myself a mechanic ....when the intake instructions say X amt of time, double or triple it for me (never failed one though, including a 90's Firebird where the dual filters resided down under front part of he driver's side wheel well area. That was a heck of a CAI, a long nite and way too many cold ones, but worth it)

 

[HerbieTheCar]

Interesting thread as these are the mods I consider. Definitely sold on doing intake. The sound is enough to justify that any day in my book, and is definitely first up, but still a bit hesitant on the tuner.
Only done exhaust / intake on prior vehicles so a bit worried about 'blowing the engine' so to speak but this seems quite unlikely.
For $1k or so looks like good deal, no really good, for big gains that would take considerably more money going any other route.
Re: plug change...read about the three hour ordeal above, that scares me a bit too. Last thoughts that come to mind was an IDK how many hours changing plugs, wires, coils packs on an Avalanche as those 2 plugs at the rear of the engine were way far up under the dash and a
B to get to. Is that the case here? Plugs hard to access? Can't xactly call myself a mechanic ....when the intake instructions say X amt of time, double or triple it for me (never failed one though, including a 90's Firebird where the dual filters resided down under front part of he driver's side wheel well area. That was a heck of a CAI, a long nite and way too many cold ones, but worth it)

So, there are only two coil packs that are a b to get to and it's the two on the passenger side, nearest to the cabin of the vehicle. I got it out by using elbows on a wrench to wiggle it down there. Here is a thread that goes on to help you get them out: Spark Plug change tips

My biggest advice on changing the plugs is to have a magnetic wand/stick and a second person, that way, the coil pack screws won't fall down the engine bay (like what happened to me)

The JB4 installation was fairly simple; biggest issue was trying to squeeze the OBDII wires from inside the cabin back into the engine bay and hook it up to the JB4 unit. Just gotta pry a screwdriver against the grommet while you push the wire through.

There is also a risk of dropping the posi-taps when you're trying to tap the required sensors for AFR control, but if you've got a steady hand, you'll be okay.

This is the first car that I've personally modified and worked on so everything has been new to me too. YouTube has a decent amount of walkthroughs on how to install the more popular mods such as the Injen Intake and JB4, and the forums have guides with pictures on certain exhaust installations. Patience is definitely the key here, especially when it comes to not dropping things down the engine bay