Ignition controlled fuses

Berzerker

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For anyone's that used add-a-fuses for dashcam, radar detector, etc, which fuses did you tap?

The ones I've tried (empty fuse above the power outlet on the right, and the sunroof fuse) are always constant on and not ignition controlled. The sunroof fuse surprised me that it was always on since the sunroof doesn't work with the car off.

The dashcam doesn't seem to drain the battery, even over a few days, but I'd still like to have it on an ignition controlled fuse.
 
20190624_114428.webp
 
I used the same as Shannon.

I tried the sunroof fuse and also found it to have constant power. My guess is that if the sunroof is left open when the car is turned off, you may still be able to close it. Haven't confirmed, though.
 
Super valuable info here guys, I'm waiting for an add-a-fuse in the mail right now to get the auto-dim on my near mirror up and running.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
For anyone else that needs this info, the 10A "interior lamp" fuse (top left of the driver's side fuse box), is switched with the doors being locked and the car being off. This works out well for a dashcam so it starts up basically while you're getting in the car and is on by the time the car is started.

For those that need multiple fuse taps (me, dashcam and radar detector), I used the 10A "interior lamp" for the dashcam and the upper 20A "power outlet" fuse (as shown in the picture above in the thread) for the radar detector as that one is switched with the actual ignition.
 
I used the same as Shannon.

I tried the sunroof fuse and also found it to have constant power. My guess is that if the sunroof is left open when the car is turned off, you may still be able to close it. Haven't confirmed, though.
The K8SS Canbus Control Module once installed allows you to control the sunroof with the key fob and I believe it automatically closes if left open once the car locks.
 
Where did you end up grounding it? I'm no auto electrician but I couldn't find many spot that were easy to access so I grounded in this spot which is above the dead pedal. I hated working in the fusebox area it's so tough to squeeze under there to work.

20200223_162551.webp

FYI I was wiring the autodim for an aftermarket frameless rearview mirror. I used an add-a-fuse too.
 
Where did you end up grounding it? I'm no auto electrician but I couldn't find many spot that were easy to access so I grounded in this spot which is above the dead pedal. I hated working in the fusebox area it's so tough to squeeze under there to work.

View attachment 38407

FYI I was wiring the autodim for an aftermarket frameless rearview mirror. I used an add-a-fuse too.
Pop the side of the dash adjacent to fuse panel and A pillar and there's a good bolt to ground.20200224_154440.webp 20200224_154432.webp
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Is that grounded against plastic? It might work fine for you but I thought you're supposed to ground against metal that connects to the body or is directly on the body like the larger bolt above where you grounded.
 
Is that grounded against plastic? It might work fine for you but I thought you're supposed to ground against metal that connects to the body or is directly on the body like the larger bolt above where you grounded.
If it weren't grounded to metal that had a connection to the battery *somehow*, it wouldn't work at all. It's not grounded in the sense that it protects the device (what people typically think of when they hear "grounded"), it's grounded to create a circuit with the fuse connection, i.e., it eventually makes its way back to the negative lead on the battery. TLDR: If it's working, it's grounded.

On a side-note: I noticed when I remote start the car, sometimes the dashcam will not turn on/activate after "engaging" the car when getting in. I have to pull the USB connection from the dashcam and plug it back in for it to actually start. Happens maybe 1 or 2 out of every 10 times. I'm on the 20A power outlet fuse, has anyone experienced this or can think of something that might be causing it?
 
If it weren't grounded to metal that had a connection to the battery *somehow*, it wouldn't work at all. It's not grounded in the sense that it protects the device (what people typically think of when they hear "grounded"), it's grounded to create a circuit with the fuse connection, i.e., it eventually makes its way back to the negative lead on the battery. TLDR: If it's working, it's grounded.

On a side-note: I noticed when I remote start the car, sometimes the dashcam will not turn on/activate after "engaging" the car when getting in. I have to pull the USB connection from the dashcam and plug it back in for it to actually start. Happens maybe 1 or 2 out of every 10 times. I'm on the 20A power outlet fuse, has anyone experienced this or can think of something that might be causing it?

Ironically it sounds like a bad ground.
 
Funny, but if it was a bad ground it would a) also not work with regular starts and b) also not work randomly throughout normal use.
I dont think you've ever had a bad ground before. They're known for causing intermittent issues just like this. Bad grounds don't always just mean it stops working permanently.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I dont think you've ever had a bad ground before. They're known for causing intermittent issues just like this. Bad grounds don't always just mean it stops working permanently.

Exactly. I'm not an electrical guy, but I've had electrical stuff done and that's what happens...it works, then it's assumed all is good. If it's not a solid ground/clean ground then you'll have issues somewhere down the road.
 
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I dont think you've ever had a bad ground before. They're known for causing intermittent issues just like this. Bad grounds don't always just mean it stops working permanently.
I've had bad grounds in many pieces of electrical equipment. That's the thing though, this isn't as intermittent as it'd be if it were a bad ground. If it was truly a bad ground I'd have a lot more problems than it just not working only on start, only sometimes, and only when the car is remote started.

To give context, I had the camera on a constant 12V supply so it was always on for *months* before moving it to the 20A Power Outlet fuse so it wouldn't be on all the time. The only times it ever was actually off was when I physically unplugged the unit for any reason. The entire time, the ground connection was untouched.

I could see the 5A fuse going to the camera potentially being crap quality/bad. I can try replacing that, perhaps something got out of whack when swapping the fuses out from when I moved the connection over.
 
If it weren't grounded to metal that had a connection to the battery *somehow*, it wouldn't work at all. It's not grounded in the sense that it protects the device (what people typically think of when they hear "grounded"), it's grounded to create a circuit with the fuse connection, i.e., it eventually makes its way back to the negative lead on the battery. TLDR: If it's working, it's grounded.

On a side-note: I noticed when I remote start the car, sometimes the dashcam will not turn on/activate after "engaging" the car when getting in. I have to pull the USB connection from the dashcam and plug it back in for it to actually start. Happens maybe 1 or 2 out of every 10 times. I'm on the 20A power outlet fuse, has anyone experienced this or can think of something that might be causing it?
I have a similar experience with my viofo A129 pro dash cam & HK3 hardwire kit. I used 20amps sunroof fuse, and i tapped in with a fuse tap, and I gave 10amps fuse for the dashcam.
So, basically, the dashcam works when the engine is off, but every now and then, the dash cam would restart randomly, especially when the engine is off, it also restarts when the engine is on.

Problem: The sunroof, although it provides 12V, it is hot, live wire yes. But it is not constant. When i was using multimeter, after holding it for like like 2-3mins, theres a volatage drop to 0, and it slowly comes back to 12v within few seconds.
So, when this happen, dash cam doesn't receive enough power, so it automatically restart.

Solution:
I think i found the answer, but I'll test it tomorrow.
Option:
A. Use OBD fuse, although currently 7.5amps in OBD, i can tap in with fuse tap and add another 5amps for dash cam.
B. Tap the fuse from engine compartment using fuse tap, and pass this wire through the firewall (takes a bit of time). Problem is, you wont be able to fully close the fuse.
C. Direct the wire from the battery with fuse in-line, and pass that wire through firewall. (takes a bit of time also).

I'll update how it goes tomorrow.
 
The 20amp spare fuse and the 15amp wiper/washer fuse are both switched power. I’ve got my radar detector and Mando ECS10 on them.
 
That bolt he’s using is intended as a ground. It works.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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