How to avoid blown spark plugs in your tuned Stinger

Done 8,000km's with stock plugs and 25% power increase with no issues. Get it tuned properly and you won't need to mess with the plugs?
It has nothing to do with the type or brand of the tune... Its simply that Kia dropped the ball on monitoring stock gaps and some owners had gaps as bad as 0.038":eek: from the factory. Completely stock Stingers have reported plug & coil issues with gaps that bad, and any added boost would just exaggerate those problems.

There is a basic rule of thumb for spark plug gaps and anyone telling you otherwise is trying to sell you something, or is uninformed. Basically, more boost=smaller gaps!

If you didnt confirm your stock gaps are between 0.022-0.028 your just gambling with your car and may have problems sooner than later.:confused: Hopefully your luck doesnt run out and I wish you the best.
 
It has nothing to do with the type or brand of the tune... Its simply that Kia dropped the ball on monitoring stock gaps and some owners had gaps as bad as 0.038":eek: from the factory. Completely stock Stingers have reported plug & coil issues with gaps that bad, and any added boost would just exaggerate those problems.

There is a basic rule of thumb for spark plug gaps and anyone telling you otherwise is trying to sell you something, or is uninformed. Basically, more boost=smaller gaps!

If you didnt confirm your stock gaps are between 0.022-0.028 your just gambling with your car and may have problems sooner than later.:confused: Hopefully your luck doesnt run out and I wish you the best.
Isn't that what the 7 year warranty is for? Lol
I've been running high octane map in sport mode with 19psi the whole time with no issues.
 
It has nothing to do with the type or brand of the tune... Its simply that Kia dropped the ball on monitoring stock gaps and some owners had gaps as bad as 0.038":eek: from the factory. Completely stock Stingers have reported plug & coil issues with gaps that bad, and any added boost would just exaggerate those problems.

There is a basic rule of thumb for spark plug gaps and anyone telling you otherwise is trying to sell you something, or is uninformed. Basically, more boost=smaller gaps!

If you didnt confirm your stock gaps are between 0.022-0.028 your just gambling with your car and may have problems sooner than later.:confused: Hopefully your luck doesnt run out and I wish you the best.

I understand the point of modifying the gap distance - if we tune the car we are modifying certain characteristics of the car's engine, hense this re-gapping topic.

But I don't think this has anything to do with KIA, or with the car's components, testing etc.

The Denso's come at 0.04 new. Unless every car maker re-gaps the plugs they buy, I don't see this as a problem originating from KIA.
 
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Got car re-tuned with a better printout....not bad results considering all I have is a Bi-modal exhaust. (Not sure if that even increases performance at all) Stock gaps as not needed with a proper tune. ;)

Stock 14-15psi

202rwkw/576nm torque

Unichip and tune 16psi

276rwkw/687nm torque

So all up 111nm boost and 74rwkw (37%)20190517_171403.webp 20190517_171353.webp
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I understand the point of modifying the gap distance - if we tune the car we are modifying certain characteristics of the car's engine, hense this re-gapping topic.

But I don't think this has anything to do with KIA, or with the car's components, testing etc.

The Denso's come at 0.04 new. Unless every car maker re-gaps the plugs they buy, I don't see this as a problem originating from KIA.
I thought the same thing, but multiple people including myself had issues with stock plugs and had randomly bad gaps from the factory.

My NGKs were misfiring when I was completely stock and Kia replaced them for me. My stock gaps ranged from 0.034-0.036 and other members were as bad as 0.038, so how do we explain all the random gaps, and even on the same car?!?:confused:

I’m not saying Kia didn’t figure this out and get control of it on 2018 & 2019 builds, but they definitely dropped the ball on some of the “launch” Stingers. Fortunately most people got lucky and didnt have any issues, but sucks for the ones that did and makes it a gamble for everyone wanting more boost.:unsure:
 
Isn't that what the 7 year warranty is for? Lol
I've been running high octane map in sport mode with 19psi the whole time with no issues.

You're being ignorant, which is your prerogative, but in this instance you're doing so to save what... $70? that would otherwise help avoid issues that the factory plugs/gap can cause? How brilliant you must feel with those extra $20 bills in your wallet.... LOL.

Changing plugs out to lower heat ranges, and changing the gapping in common place in almost EVERY force inducted platform. Evos, Sti's, Skylines, Cobalts, Hellcats, Cameros, audi a4/s4/s3, golf r and so on all use the same knowledge to safely run more boost, and this is one of the most common ways of doing so safer. Even IF you aren't running into issues that you can see/feel, its very likely that your knock sensors are pulling timing to account from the detonation in the chambers those lousy stock plugs are creating. I'm not sure if you understand what timing does, but having your knock sensor pull it to protect the engine isn't intelligent, its ignorant.
 
I understand the point of modifying the gap distance - if we tune the car we are modifying certain characteristics of the car's engine, hense this re-gapping topic.

But I don't think this has anything to do with KIA, or with the car's components, testing etc.

The Denso's come at 0.04 new. Unless every car maker re-gaps the plugs they buy, I don't see this as a problem originating from KIA.

The plugs come at 0.04 to allow everyone the ability to gap them down. It's less stressful on the plug to be gapped down than up ( when done properly )
 
Just saying, I'm 12,000 miles into my @PRESSERtech LLC tune and still no plug issues.

Can you log your timing advance table and knock retard counts on multiple pulls and post them ? If you can't, your "no plug issues" statement is irrelevant as sight unseen doesn't mean nothing to see when it comes to engines.
 
Can you log your timing advance table and knock retard counts on multiple pulls and post them ? If you can't, your "no plug issues" statement is irrelevant as sight unseen doesn't mean nothing to see when it comes to engines.

In your opinion, however, I'm not poisoning my engine with a piggyback device. I have a balanced tune.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
In your opinion, however, I'm not poisoning my engine with a piggyback device. I have a balanced tune.

I'd be remiss if I didn't ask you just how incredibly new to modifications on force inducted vehicles you are? Maybe I'm the fool for asking this, afterall, you boast your estimated 0-60 times, and your xpel protection/tint and ceramic coating (as modifications) in your signature LOL.

Firstly, how balanced do you really feel your tune is ? The ECU isn't fully unlocked, hopefully you can see the collapsing argument you've created for yourself here... lol.

But for the sake of time savings, lets imagine for a second that I've worked in the industry for over 15 years, and have had fully built and tuned everything supercharged and turbocharged in that time frame, which gives me a fantastic position to speak on the importance of colder heat range spark plugs and how they can both help you produce more power, but also help protect your investment.

That balanced tune of yours, which is far from it, given it isn't a road or dyno tune, but rather a file that is copy pasted over and over, is no better than the poison piggy backs you look down on.

Do you understand the concept of spark advance? Or how it directly relates to the functionality of your chosen spark plugs, their heat range, and the gap of those plugs? Imagine for a second that a colder plug allows you to safety run more timing, boost, or both, the 2 major aspects of the internal combustion process in your engine that produces horse power.

Imagine that hardly balanced tune of yours, is currently causing your ECU to pull timing it otherwise wouldn't have to pull if you were running the appropriate plugs. If it is, and it is, then its robbing you of power it otherwise wouldn't have too if you simply bought the $60 spark plugs. We have this sensor on our block called a knock sensor, and its soul purpose is to listen for knock retard which is the sound made by predetonation in the chamber, and to alert the ECU when it happens so it can pull timing from your engine to avoid catastrophic failure. I can promise you, the math is unquestionable, and you're not reinventing the science of internal combustion dude, so the fact remains that the only thing you're doing besides saving yourself $60 on spark plugs is robbing yourself on power, and reliability. I do enjoy the humor involved in your argument against the small monetary cost of spark plugs while talking about how much better your more expensive tune is. Your tune is the equivalent of a canned tune you get on a Cobb Accessport for any platform they support, and its nothing to be gloating about.

But hey, thankfully for you, I had 3 different vehicles write my 2018 GT LTD off a month ago. It only had 2800 kms on the unharmed engine, so when your balanced tune and your crusade to prove the last 20 years of forced induction theory incorrect simply because you don't want to admit your wrong eventually causes you to predetonate one too many times, there will be one waiting. And hey, you'll already have $60 saved up towards the costs of replacement! Do you want the name of the salvage yard now or ?
 
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You're being ignorant, which is your prerogative, but in this instance you're doing so to save what... $70? that would otherwise help avoid issues that the factory plugs/gap can cause? How brilliant you must feel with those extra $20 bills in your wallet.... LOL.

Changing plugs out to lower heat ranges, and changing the gapping in common place in almost EVERY force inducted platform. Evos, Sti's, Skylines, Cobalts, Hellcats, Cameros, audi a4/s4/s3, golf r and so on all use the same knowledge to safely run more boost, and this is one of the most common ways of doing so safer. Even IF you aren't running into issues that you can see/feel, its very likely that your knock sensors are pulling timing to account from the detonation in the chambers those lousy stock plugs are creating. I'm not sure if you understand what timing does, but having your knock sensor pull it to protect the engine isn't intelligent, its ignorant.

My mistake on PSI boost ....only running 2 psi above stock with 35% increased dyno reading after tune.
20190517_171403.webp 20190517_171353.webp
 
My mistake on PSI boost ....only running 2 psi above stock with 35% increased dyno reading after tune.
View attachment 26983 View attachment 26984
You’re only making 370whp with a tune and your HP peak is at an even lower RPM?:cautious: That’s unusual and only about 30-40whp more than stock Stingers. Must be a very mild tune and hope it didn’t cost you much. It’s also weird you have a different correction factor on each dyno, and seems like your dyno tech is playing games or something.

Also where do you see boost? And why get a tune if it only adds 2psi? Stock boost can vary that much just from different air temperatures & load.:confused:

I hope you’re happy with it, but almost everything about this dyno or what you’re being told sounds fishy.
 
You’re only making 370whp with a tune and your HP peak is at an even lower RPM?:cautious: That’s unusual and only about 30-40whp more than stock Stingers. Must be a very mild tune and hope it didn’t cost you much. It’s also weird you have a different correction factor on each dyno, and seems like your dyno tech is playing games or something.

Also where do you see boost? And why get a tune if it only adds 2psi? Stock boost can vary that much just from different air temperatures & load.:confused:

I hope you’re happy with it, but almost everything about this dyno or what you’re being told sounds fishy.

I'm not too sure but have been told every dyno is different that's why stock it's only showing 202kw.

Isn't the difference 72rwkw?
 
I've had no issues with the HKS M45iL plugs in my Kia Stinger GT2 RWD, with my Racechip on Map 7 for the past 12k miles. At what mileage can I expect to replace?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I'm not too sure but have been told every dyno is different that's why stock it's only showing 202kw.

Isn't the difference 72rwkw?

Not only is every dyno different, but even the same dyno can produce wildly varying results based on environmental conditions and the settings the dyno operator is using. Even how tightly the car is tied down onto the dyno can impact on readings.

You want the same dyno, same operator, same settings and setup for mostly comparable results.
 
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I've had no issues with the HKS M45iL plugs in my Kia Stinger GT2 RWD, with my Racechip on Map 7 for the past 12k miles. At what mileage can I expect to replace?
Pull a plug and check the gap. A Jb4 guy said his plugs had massive gaps after 10k miles on his Densos. So I checked my Densos at 8K and the gap hadn't changed. I plan to replace mine after about 30K, but will check on them again in another 8-10K.
 
I just checked my spark plugs in my stinger 2.0 and look how they are with 10,700 km, I always throw 98 gasoline ... the ceramic is starting to burn as standard the gap is regulated between 0.31-0.33, here in Spain the weather is warm and in winter there are very few days below 5 degrees I am going to replace them with cooler ones and calibrate them to 0.22-0.24 Which do you recommend dense, hks or the same standard calibrated ???
ver
 
I just checked my spark plugs in my stinger 2.0 and look how they are with 10,700 km, I always throw 98 gasoline ... the ceramic is starting to burn as standard the gap is regulated between 0.31-0.33, here in Spain the weather is warm and in winter there are very few days below 5 degrees I am going to replace them with cooler ones and calibrate them to 0.22-0.24 Which do you recommend dense, hks or the same standard calibrated ???
ver
Im not familiar with the 2.0 plugs but would assume you should be able to get most of the same brands & versions as the 3.3tt.

In general Denso’s are great inexpensive plugs however there are knockoffs being sold from some distributors and a couple people have had misfires using them on the 3.3tt. Most likely from improper gapping or too much/too little boost for the heat range, but there are a few cases.

If you’re willing to pay more for a premium plug I’ve heard great things about the Brisk LGS plugs and would think they’d be the best option, especially if you’ll be adding any extra boost in the future.:thumbup:
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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