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3.3TT Help with reading logs from Map 2

RiceFarmerDan

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Hi everyone,

I recently got a 19' GT1 AWD, and I have the BMS 450WHP kit, and a TiAL BOV, with the BMS adapter and I was wondering if this looks good for a 1/4-mile run. I have been reading into the expected boost levels and was wondering if these logs look alright or not. Any help is greatly appreciated. Screenshot_20260212_210540.webp
 

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What else would cause it? Like fuel wires the EWG?
For corrections on Map 2 with 93 octane, the first/easiest thing to rule out is fuel (assuming you weren't running in really hot conditions). A fresh tank of premium from another station, then a clean run on Map 0 before escalating to Map 1 etc.

I don't think fuel/O2 wires typically resolve pulled timing. Their purpose is to let the JB4 manipulate air:fuel ratio, and lean out the car's overly conservative fuel enrichment at high rpm for a bit more power. But without them the car still sees & controls the engine's A:F ratio.

External Waste Gate connectors let the JB4 scale wastegate duty cycle up or down to control how quickly boost comes on (or minimize overshooting). I don't see how that would impact knock either.
 
For corrections on Map 2 with 93 octane, the first/easiest thing to rule out is fuel (assuming you weren't running in really hot conditions). A fresh tank of premium from another station, then a clean run on Map 0 before escalating to Map 1 etc.

I don't think fuel/O2 wires typically resolve pulled timing. Their purpose is to let the JB4 manipulate air:fuel ratio, and lean out the car's overly conservative fuel enrichment at high rpm for a bit more power. But without them the car still sees & controls the engine's A:F ratio.

External Waste Gate connectors let the JB4 scale wastegate duty cycle up or down to control how quickly boost comes on (or minimize overshooting). I don't see how that would impact knock either.
So I was also monitoring how the ECU targets boost, and it seems like the JB4 is hitting the 4-5 PSI over said target, but could it be that I did not gap the plugs correctly to .022? So its pulling timing to compensate?
 
could it be that I did not gap the plugs correctly to .022? So its pulling timing to compensate?
The tighter gap is recommended for higher boost because it becomes harder for the spark to jump a wide one, so if you left them stock your risk would probably be misfiring. Wrong temp would be a more likely cause of knock/pre-ignition. Going a step "colder" means they shed heat faster.

Have you done baseline pulls on Map 0 and then Map 1? Or did you just jump straight to Map 2?

Edit: the plug temp might be a red herring. It seems modern engines really just detect (and pull timing for) ping/knock, not pre-ignition. And a hot spark plug is much more likely to cause pre-ignition.
 
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