Has anyone done any successful sound proofing/deadening to the trunk area?

[Manaz]

Let us know how it goes!

 

[Kazz]

I wonder how much good putting some sound deadening mat and foam just on the underside of the trunk floor piece would do? Seems like it would kill quite a bit of noise since it creates somewhat of a sealed barrier between the untreated spare tire area and the rest of the car.

Could certainly do both!

 

[Thrashmetl]

Can someone explain the use of the heat gun in this application? The mat isn’t stretchy is it?

 

[Ruturaj]

I wonder how much good putting some sound deadening mat and foam just on the underside of the trunk floor piece would do? Seems like it would kill quite a bit of noise since it creates somewhat of a sealed barrier between the untreated spare tire area and the rest of the car.

Bad idea, as your trying to use sound deadening material as barrier. Get something like MLV/Luxury liner pro for that. 60% coverage of sound deadening on metal surface would rather work better as barrier won't be covering everything.

Reference: Reference Information & Guide – ResoNix Sound Solutions

 

[Ruturaj]

Can someone explain the use of the heat gun in this application? The mat isn’t stretchy is it?

Roller should do the job of stretching, heat gun shouldn't be needed.
Watch this:

 

[Ruturaj]

View attachment 25151 View attachment 25153 View attachment 25152 Trunk, hatch, floor, front doors (still need to do the rear doors). I also unbolted the exhaust hangers and sandwiched damping material there to lessen energy transfer

I think I would just copy you for now. May be add Luxury liner pro mat on top if I feel so in future.

 

[Thrashmetl]

Bad idea, as your trying to use sound deadening material as barrier. Get something like MLV/Luxury liner pro for that. 60% coverage of sound deadening on metal surface would rather work better as barrier won't be covering everything.

Reference: Reference Information & Guide – ResoNix Sound Solutions

So like the closed cell foam stuff only?

 

[Thrashmetl]

View attachment 25151 View attachment 25153 View attachment 25152 Trunk, hatch, floor, front doors (still need to do the rear doors). I also unbolted the exhaust hangers and sandwiched damping material there to lessen energy transfer

Roller should do the job of stretching, heat gun shouldn't be needed.
Watch this:

I only ask because I saw a heat gun in RandallK’s photos.

 

[Ruturaj]

So like the closed cell foam stuff only?

I am planning to do CLD (Dampers) CCF (Closed Cell Foam) combo (SoundSkins Pro is both) on metal surface with 100% coverage. If still didn't feel enough then will add CCF MLV (mass loaded vinyl) combo (Luxury liner pro is both). I think CCF in both is important because we don't want sound proofing material to make noise (by vibrating with other surfaces).

 

[Ruturaj]

I only ask because I saw a heat gun in RandallK’s photos.

I see it now.

 

[Manaz]

I only ask because I saw a heat gun in RandallK’s photos.

The heat gun helps to make the material more pliable - when it's cold, it can be a bit stiff and hard to get it to form exactly to the shape of what you're trying to attach it to, particularly on complex shapes or sharp bends.

 

[Ruturaj]

The heat gun helps to make the material more pliable - when it's cold, it can be a bit stiff and hard to get it to form exactly to the shape of what you're trying to attach it to, particularly on complex shapes or sharp bends.

Seems like I might end up using my heat gun for first time.

 

[Manaz]

Be gentle with it. You don't want to super-heat the product - from a distance, you're looking to wave the gun over the product to just warm it.

Get it too hot and it can delaminate, melt, and even catch fire. And it STINKS.

 

[Thrashmetl]

Seems like I might end up using my heat gun for first time.

Haha. Got mine at Harbor Freight on sale for $9. Tinting your side and rear lower reflectors and doing an amber delete on your front turn signals is surprisingly simple with one of these. Much cheaper just to buy some tint film and do it yourself.

 

[Ruturaj]

Haha. Got mine at Harbor Freight on sale for $9. Tinting your side and rear lower reflectors and doing an amber delete on your front turn signals is surprisingly simple with one of these. Much cheaper just to buy some tint film and do it yourself.

I bought mine from there as well. But I think I paid 15. Got it for debadge my car. Never got there though. May be tomorrow I will finally put big stinger embalm.

 

[Thrashmetl]

I bought mine from there as well. But I think I paid 15. Got it for debadge my car. Never got there though. May be tomorrow I will finally put big stinger embalm.

Forgot I did that too. The Kia badges are a pain in the ass. Took about 20 minutes each. A piece of advice, if that Harbor Freight is close, pick up some of the wedges like the guy uses in this video:

I used fishing line until I got pretty close to the center and then used the wedges on both sides. When you’re prying with a wedge on one side you have to have a wedge on the other side as well so the other aide of the badge doesn’t dig into the paint and damage it. And don’t heat with the heat gun while you have the wedges in because the wedges will melt, believe me, I know.

The Stinger badge and the GT badge are suuuuper easy to remove. GT badge will come off with just one run with the heat gun and Stinger with 2 runs. You won’t need the wedges either.

Off topic I know, but screw it, this is my thread.

 

[Peter Biller]

Hello all,
Just sharing my experience with the Noico mats. Purchased at Amazon, including 3 metal rollers to apply the mats and one roll of Noico tape to seal the joints. So far so good. There is a definitive reduction in road noise from the back...sounds more solid, less high frequency noise...now the empty trunk sounds like it is stuffed full with luggage.

The Noico product is easy to install. The product comes folded into thirds (see the product link further up in this thread). I've simply cut one third off, molded the material with the backing paper in place to get an outline where to cut slots to overlap into curves, trimmed the piece to size and then applied it by hand first, making sure there are no air bubbles trapped. If you get a bubble, simply puncture it and squeeze out the air and then patch the place with a bit of Noico tape.
Then apply the roller to bond the material. When the diamond pattern has disappeared the bond is complete. I've then sealed all joints with tape and rolled the tape as well.
What you see in the picture took about 3 hours to do. I did not remove the battery but the harnesses, top brace and the module on the sides.

Next are the side panels. I figure it'll take about 90 minutes each for the wheel well areas behind the side covers.

 

[Thrashmetl]

View attachment 25507 View attachment 25508 Hello all,
Just sharing my experience with the Noico mats. Purchased at Amazon, including 3 metal rollers to apply the mats and one roll of Noico tape to seal the joints. So far so good. There is a definitive reduction in road noise from the back...sounds more solid, less high frequency noise...now the empty trunk sounds like it is stuffed full with luggage.

The Noico product is easy to install. The product comes folded into thirds (see the product link further up in this thread). I've simply cut one third off, molded the material with the backing paper in place to get an outline where to cut slots to overlap into curves, trimmed the piece to size and then applied it by hand first, making sure there are no air bubbles trapped. If you get a bubble, simply puncture it and squeeze out the air and then patch the place with a bit of Noico tape.
Then apply the roller to bond the material. When the diamond pattern has disappeared the bond is complete. I've then sealed all joints with tape and rolled the tape as well.
What you see in the picture took about 3 hours to do. I did not remove the battery but the harnesses, top brace and the module on the sides.

Next are the side panels. I figure it'll take about 90 minutes each for the wheel well areas behind the side covers.

Awesome, post pictures of that too.

Are you planning on taking out the back seats and doing under those too?

How much did you buy?

 

[Kazz]

View attachment 25507 View attachment 25508 Hello all,
Just sharing my experience with the Noico mats. Purchased at Amazon, including 3 metal rollers to apply the mats and one roll of Noico tape to seal the joints. So far so good. There is a definitive reduction in road noise from the back...sounds more solid, less high frequency noise...now the empty trunk sounds like it is stuffed full with luggage.

The Noico product is easy to install. The product comes folded into thirds (see the product link further up in this thread). I've simply cut one third off, molded the material with the backing paper in place to get an outline where to cut slots to overlap into curves, trimmed the piece to size and then applied it by hand first, making sure there are no air bubbles trapped. If you get a bubble, simply puncture it and squeeze out the air and then patch the place with a bit of Noico tape.
Then apply the roller to bond the material. When the diamond pattern has disappeared the bond is complete. I've then sealed all joints with tape and rolled the tape as well.
What you see in the picture took about 3 hours to do. I did not remove the battery but the harnesses, top brace and the module on the sides.

Next are the side panels. I figure it'll take about 90 minutes each for the wheel well areas behind the side covers.

Awesome!

Which of the Noico products did you use? And have you done under the back seats yet? If not, do you plan to do so? I'm thinking anyone who's replaced their midpipes should do under the back seat, at least.

Great write-up!

 

[GenesisG70]

What is the evidence that this actually works? HAs someone used a meter and compared decibels pre and post installation? I don't want buy the products if there is not much of a difference in decibels, it's all about evidence and objectivity.